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  2. sold! MSR Simmerlite stove, bottles & MSR 1.3L pot

    Nice stove. I love mine and its been great for many years and many adventures. Sadly MSR quit making them a bit back. If you havent sold it and get no hits here there are collectors out there that would jump all over it.
  3. Today
  4. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Will definitely put it on my radar. Thank you.
  5. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Black Diamond Mission 75. Relatively inexpensive, just works. Not the fanciest, but perfectly functional. Has a side access zipper if you don't like tube-only access in the big sizes.
  6. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    I love the desk jockey reference lol. I was a steel erector by trade. Walked beams blah blah blah. Im well versed in wet weather travel on foot(the Loco Raindrops tag was well earned lol.) My buddies always say I must be on trail because its raining. I did a 115 mile solo a bit back and it poured for 11 of the 12 days I was on trail. Was a record rainfall. Not once did anything in my pack get wet. This was the trail:
  7. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    I really appreciate all of your feedback tremendously. Thank you. I have a bunch of packs. Everything from 26L to my Osprey Argon 110 I dubbed big blue. I havent decided on what seminar but Im going to do a run up Rainier with RMI in 2020. Just waiting on dates to be released in September. I would definitely go with the Mutant but Im not sure how stringent they are on the 70L pack req so I figured I would get the Aether Pro or HMG and save some weight over what I currently own. I think the Osprey would offer me a little more flexibility to be used on varying endeavors and not just above treeline. I like the HMG but the problem is I cant put one in my hands and try it out. Im familiar with cuben/sail cloth. Had a tent made of it. I sold it and stuck with my Soulo or Tarra. Anywho, I do appreciate your responses a lot. I climbed many years ago when I was a pup. Few climbers in my family and many hippie hikers lol. I do have larger endeavors I want to take on such as Denali and a few others. So I think 70L is a happy medium. I can always dial the pack down for smaller hauls with the compression straps. The Aether Pro isnt as robust as say my Xenith from a material perspective but it doesnt seem like a pack I would have to handle with kid gloves. I do like the flexibility of being able to remove the hipbelt pockets as well as the flap that takes the place of the top lid when removed. If any of you have any recommendations that I may not be aware of please fire away. Im not rich but I learned long ago buy once cry once so I will spend for a quality product. Heck, Ive had my Danners for over 20yrs now and will be heading for their 4th resole soon. I have a Dana Designs pack that has some mileage on it as well. I should have a fire sale lol.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Fly Boys Route -Goat Wall - Mazama

    Don't rappel down. Good lord, don't rappel...
  10. I have a Bomb Shelter - used on one Denali trip and on a couple local ones. I managed to put a boot through the rear vestibule but repaired it correctly. That said, I feel like I should lower the price below where it ought to be - $400 seems fair. This is one of the definitive expedition tents at a great price. The other is an I-tent. Perfect condition as in no repairs, etc. $350 seems fair. Buyer pays shipping from Bozeman although I travel a bit so could arrange something. If you want more info or photos I prefer you to use: jdj at montana dot edu thanks
  11. Coming from you, that gives me some pause. I guess too soon to jest about the end of Fred's monopoly on ascents and beta?
  12. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Personal preference is king. I haven't tried them so I shouldn't be too down on it. I just put everything in one of those NZ pack liners that can double as an emergency bivy bag.
  13. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    If you're a desk jockey with too much time to "research" the latest and greatest, they can be appealing. I have a the 40l HMG Icepack I found on Craigslist a few months ago and paid about 50% of the new price. I generally leave the brain off my other packs anyway in favor of stuff sacks inside the pack and a hip pocket for readily accessed small items. The HMG pack does carry better than my other packs in the 40-60l size but, as the OP suspects, it's pretty sweaty and warm on your back. It is pretty much waterproof, which has been nice for SAR missions in the rain.
  14. [TR] Alaska - West Ridge of Mt. Hunter (Begguya) 06/07/2019

    Sounds like adventure! Glad you all were able to summit and dodge some serious bullets. Learn from those experiences.
  15. Last week
  16. Climbing near Taxco

    Yeah I visited there a few years ago and was wondering the same, looks like it could be good and the town is nice too.. I didnt see any climbing activity going on but I'm sure there are some routes
  17. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Also check out the BD Speed 50 and Mission 55. I don't get skipping the top pocket, nor those ridiculous fabrics that don't last. If you must have a monster pack, I'd look closely at the Gregory Denali 75. I've been using an older version for 10+ years on week long trips and it is great.
  18. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    NWD - the material used in HMG, is not abrasion resistant, so don't expect the pack to last long if you climb with it. The material was developed for sailboat sails, not for dragging up coarse alpine rock. Also, it is really expensive! I agree with Darin, if Osprey packs work for you, stick with them. The Osprey Mutant 52 looks like a decent alpine pack. The right size, not too much crap on it, a nice big top pocket, and only $200, which I am sure you can find on sale somewhere on the web. Water resistance in a pack has never been an issue for me, ever. If that is a concern, line your pack with a garbage bag and put everything inside the bag and roll it closed.
  19. They are still available. Shoot me a PM if you want to buy.
  20. Thanks @curtveld, glad you enjoyed it! And yes, you nailed the approach beta from the trail- I could have been more specific about where to turn off. Post up a TR of your own if you have the time! I should add that in my correspondence with the Skagit Oracle (John Roper) he was of the opinion that nobody had climbed the rib before last summer. Not that our ascent was a huge deal, just passing it along that I did check with him. Fred, of course, is silent on the matter- both in word and print.
  21. A change in my medical condition, weather and a cancellation of a winter adventure I had planned is causing me to sell this bag. Purchased this the bag year 2018. Bag is new, no smell, tears, delaminating or abrasion wear. The bag has NEVER BEEN USED and stored in a Western Mounteering cotton storage bag in a closet for almost a year. FEATURES: Size 6’ 0” Right Zip 850 Plus Fill Power Goose Down Fill Weight 32 oz plus 4 oz OVER FILL 8.5” Loft, -100F Insulated Hood & Down Collar MicroLite XP™Fabric Cotton Storage Bag & Stuff Bag Measured Total Weight 53.4oz/3.3lb Purchased Price $815 Will throw in a Sea to Summit eVENT XL/30L COMPRESSION DRY SACK ($49.95 ) >>>>>YOURS for $575.00 ……. FREE shipping<<<<< I accept PayPal as payment. I prefer Friends and Family, OR add 4%, that is fine too. Price includes standard USPS shipping in CONUS only. For communications ONLY THROUGH my email: kenlarson40 at chartermi dot net
  22. Thanks Toast! Bookmarked it! Cheers!
  23. Left the cam on accident. Weather was getting bad and was moving in a hurry. I'll definitely buy you a six pack :-) here's what the sling looks like. It may have had a brassy on it as well but all of the gear was marked with black and red nail polish cheers! Ahren Swett
  24. Trip: Sherpa Balanced Rock - West Ridge Trip Date: 06/15/2019 Trip Report: ***WARNING: This Trip Report contains mega beta spray for free climbing Sherpa Balanced Rock (and will take all the fun out of figuring it out for yourself)*** FA: Dave Mahre and Gene and Bill Prater, 1955 (shoulder stand + 5.7) FFA: Jens Klubberud & Scott Gg, 2006 (5.10c) The epic debate over whether the traditional summit of Sherpa Peak or the Sherpa Balanced Rock is the "true summit" remains legendary. I can tell you that it is true that whether you sit on the "summit" or the balanced rock, your head is surely higher than the other. They are within feet of each other in height. Having stood on both, I still can't tell you which is higher. Someone needs to go out there and shine two laser levels between the high points to find not only the true summit but measure the difference in height (you'd only need a 3ft roll of measuring tape). Still, climbing the Sherpa Balanced Rock is an adventurous and worthy goal since it is just so dang fun! Note: whenever I use the word "summit" in this TR, I am referring to the traditional summit (not the Balanced Rock). Fred Beckey's infamous "shoulder stand" beta seemed way too spicy for my blood. The base would lean at a 45 degree angle over a 5ft deep chasm on a shaky pile of human-made rocks from which the leader would climb on their arched partner and mantle onto a narrow ledge. The free variation is WAY more fun! (However, I'll give it credit that the shoulder stand pictures are probably way more entertaining). First free'd in 2006, it still sees very few ascents each year. From the summit, we made a short rappel down to the scrambly ledges on the south side which leads to the base of the Sherpa Balanced Rock. There may also be a scramble route on the East side of the summit block to avoid having to rappel. We left a 60m fixed line from the rappel anchor to the base of the Balanced Rock. If you want to descend via the West Ridge, you'll need to go back up to the summit and reverse the West Ridge route from there (which is what we did). This meant that we jugged back up our fixed line to get back to the summit on our descent. Picture above is looking up the West Ridge route. Two pictures above are looking back (from base of Balanced Rock) at the fixed line and rappel from the summit. View of the Balanced Rock from the summit. We made a belay anchor at the base which came straight out from under the lower rock. You can see the human-made pile of rocks on the ledge (we belayed from here). If you do the Beckey handstand method, you stand on that pile of rocks and lean wayyyyy over (over the scary gap). The leader then mantles on to the ledge. A fall would be really bad. Once at the pile of rocks, scramble down (climbers) left (South side) to start the free variation. We opted to do a rope toss over the southern horn, since a lead fall would be an ankle-buster at best. From the pile of rocks, toss the rope over and pull it into the wall. I found some beta that said you can place a #1 under the first overhang. I didn't see a good place for a #1 myself, but a #5 or #6 just under the overhang would be perfect if I were to free it ground-up. This is a committing move, but it's trivial with the top rope throw. 5.10c seemed accurate (an easy bouldering move). Grab a right hand hidden undercling/sidepull in the overhang (shown above) and extend left to grab a left hand 3 finger pocket (amazing!) just above the overhang (shown above). Find a critical, little edge for your left foot out and above the roof (shown above). Then, step up with your left foot (committing) and find a high right hand incut crimp (bomber!). Bring your right foot up to the sloping edge (shown above), and reach your left hand for bad crimps and slopes. Match your right foot with your right hand on the bomber incut edge and reach for great jams between the blocks. Mantle up to the ledge. You can then clip the old bolt (which is at head height). I placed a #1 in the crack at my feet between the two blocks in order to back-up the bolt if it failed. The upper block (shown above) is "5.7" if you can reach the jug. The wall overhangs slightly and there is a huge jug if you are 5-10 or taller. I'm 5-7, so the free climbing required tricky crimps to make my way up to the jug. Once at the jug, you have a good right foot and you're home free. I found the upper block MUCH harder than the lower block (for a shorter fellow). You can, of course, pull on the bolt and easily reach the jug no matter how tall you are (easy). For the top anchor, you can sling the top horn (shown above). The existing anchor is an old bolt and a bomber nut with new tat, which we only used for the final rappel. Jugging back up the fixed line to the summit. Enjoy! Gear Notes: #5 or 6 to free it ground-up (or do a rope toss). #1 to protect between the blocks (backup to bolt). Cordalette to sling the summit horn. Approach Notes: Scramble down (southward) from the summit. If you climb the East Ridge, you pass the Balanced Rock on the way to the summit.
  25. Was up there last weekend and the Ladder's future is considerably brighter than poor old Good Food. Very direct (though steep) approach under timber, then that long, scenic rib make for a great outing. Way more sensible and aesthetic than coming up from 39 Mile Camp, as the red Fred suggests. If you want to avoid schwacking entirely, head off the trail just past the major bouldery creek crossing well before Luna camp - the drainage to the right of the route. Follow the timber north of the creek for about 500' past some monster firs and angle left toward the highest ground, avoiding several mossy slabs. If you manage to get confused on this one, you should probably stick to top-roping at the Exits. Cool route, guys!
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