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  1. Yesterday
  2. Trip: Mount Constance - Finger Traverse Trip Date: 05/23/2019 Trip Report: This past Thursday, Zorina and I climbed Mount Constance via the Finger Traverse. I know there's a lot of route info out there, but this website needs trip reports and maybe someone wants a conditions update The trip was great: the route was interesting and in the conditions when we were there, a little taste of everything: talus, steep snow, scree-skiing, slab, class 3/4/5 scrambling, and sweet ridge-walking. And an improbable-looking giant summit block! Wednesday we made the approach to Lake Constance. We didn't want to mess around with bikes, but it wasn't a big deal. It's about 5 miles along the Dosewallips from where you can park to the turn-off for the unmaintained trail up to the lake. The trail is flagged/marked the entire way and easy to follow. Cool trail: burned out steep section, flatter middle section with crazy moss and enormous boulders (glacial erratics?!), and then some root pulling up top. Lots of blowdowns the whole way. Saw lots of wildflowers and trees in bloom, including rhododendrons, lupine, indian paintbrush, and a dogwood. Lots of some big beetle and an interesting black and yellow millipede-like insect. At the lake, we did have to cross some sections of snow to get around to the north side where there are a few camp spots. Bear wire and toilet intact! TONS of fish, wish I had a fishing setup! (I think we saw a sign that said after June 1, fishing is allowed.) The snafflehounds were out in full force, and it appears that one gnawed a hole through Zorina's water bladder (of course, right at the bottom...) In the morning, we got going around 6 AM and were on talus then snow and a bit of scree gully up to the notch with a rainbow behind us. Descending traverse over to the next gully system, and then up scree or more solid rock scrambling. Not bad! At the next (E-W) notch, a rising traverse and some steep snow. Working our way over, finding a few cairns, we finally found the finger traverse, which is exposed but manageable; it was still under snow for probably half of it (I think?) so it might be harder once all that melts out. As it was, there was a nice moat for your feet for part of it. Then some more ridge walking, some steep snow traverses, then a descending traverse to the base of a gully in these crazy choss pinnacles. Ridge scrambling fun, then to the summit block -- spiral scramble staircase up the back, and then you're on top! I really should have brought my skis... Photo by Zorina A pair of bald eagles soared on thermals for a good 3 or 4 minutes while we were up there. Spectacular summit views including Puget Sound and islands, Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, The Brothers, Jupiter, and Olympus! Photo by Zorina Photo by Zorina The descent was uneventful, with some down climbing and plunge stepping and boot skiing (both on snow and scree) and some glissading. The steep descent after the lake was not for the weak-kneed. Owch. Luckily, no one had broken into Zorina's car! A great ending. Times: 6ish hours up from lake, 3.5ish hours back to lake. Gear Notes: Light axe, light pons, 30m rope and a few nuts if you want to protect the finger traverse Approach Notes: Dosewallips River Road to road end; walk/bike road to well-signed turnoff for Lake Constance
  3. Last week
  4. Hey all, I'm volunteering on a week-long backpacking trip with youth this summer through Big City Mountaineers, and thought maybe some of you would be interested in going on one of their trips. Feel free to pass along this information to others you think may be interested! Spoiler alert: there is no mountaineering. Just backpacking. Here is the email I got from the volunteer coordinator: * * * * Greetings PNW Friends and Big City Mountaineers Supporters, I am emailing you because I am still in need of 6 more male volunteers, and 1 female volunteer for our Big City Mountaineers trips this summer. Our volunteer mentors are integral to our mission and to a successful trip, and if you have given your time before on a BCM trip, or already plan to volunteer this summer, I want to express my deepest gratitude! Below are the dates of the trips and the associated youth agencies that still need volunteers. If you think you may be interested in making an expedition fit into your summer this year, please email me and we can start the process to registering you on a trip. If you know others who would be impactful mentors and willing to give a week to this experience, please pass this email and my contact information along. Portland-based Trips: POIC—Rosemary Anderson High School June 25-July 1 Male trip: need 1 volunteer Female trip: waitlist Ant Farm July 11-17 Male trip: waitlist Female trip: need 1 volunteer Police Activities League July 16-23 Male trip: need 1 volunteer Female trip: waitlist Seattle-Based Trips: Seattle Nativity School Juy 21-July 27 Male trip: need 2 volunteers Female trip: waitlist Boys & Girls Club of Bellevue July 30-August 5 Male trip: need 2 volunteers Female trip: waitlist Volunteer Training: June 1, 2019 in Portland, Oregon * it is very important to attend this training, but if you cannot, and would still like to volunteer on a trip, please reach out to me regardless and we can work something out. Below are the steps to volunteering on a Big City Mountaineers trip if you have not before: Here is a link to a presentation that will give you more of an understanding of Big City Mountaineers and the experience as a mentor. I have also attached the Mentor Position Description. For more clarification and details please call me (phone number below), and I’ll be happy to talk to you more about the volunteer experience. If, after watching the presentation and reading the description, you feel like this is an experience for you: • Submit an application through this link: https://formstack.io/59DD8 o At that time I will reach out to you to set up an informal phone interview o I’ll check your reference, and get you set up with an expedition date • Submit a registration and $150 volunteer fee (to help cover expedition costs) • complete the background check • Get stoked! This is truly a wonderful experience spent with inspiring youth and like-minded adults! Participate in a Volunteer Training June 1st, at the Mazamas in Portland, Oregon Thank you so much for your support and for passing this along to people you feel are—or could be-- passionate mentors! Sincerely, Anne Hayward anne@bigcitymountaineers.org * * * * Alisse
  5. John Stoddard's Passing

    Lesley I'm very sorry to hear of John's passing. I barely knew him - we were referred to each other by Bryce Simon, I believe - and we did only one climb together, the 1977 first ascent of the East Buttress of Mt. Slesse. I just happened to run across a recent routes guide to the East side of the mountain online and found our names, which led to wondering whatever became of John, and here I am popping out of the past, late as usual. I'm afraid I have little to add to his remembrance save that he was comfortable to be with and held up his end of the rope, saving my 24-year old ass with a smooth belay when a little nubbin crumbled under a skyhook and a #1 hexcentric about 8 ft below held (barely - the cord was halfway broken). This was on the thin face pitch above the point where the buttress dies into the East Face - a very airy, hairy crux to be climbing in alpine packs. A haul line would have been a nice addition to our skimpy equipage - and a couple more bottles of water. Fortunately it wasn't too long for us and the terrain eased into a series of shallow steps, all rounded but with good holds. It was still a fair ways before I found any decent anchor. We descended via the North Ridge with a couple of rappels through the cliffs. John got a little testy with me when I tied off and dangled in a blueberry patch for a few minutes while he waited below ignorant of my bliss. All the best Dennis Attached photo may be from the same descent route on an earlier climb of the N.E. Buttress route I did with Dave Tucker in '75 or '76.
  6. Awesome trip and photos! I will have to hire JGAP LLC for next year!* *Paid endorsement
  7. Made in the USA when Bibler was a division of Black Diamond and before BD began having their tents made in Asia. This is the version without the tie-in loop and is a size long. It is practically unused and in mint condition. Waterproof/breathable Todd-Tex on top with a polyurethane coated nylon bottom. The opening has bug netting and a pliable wire hoop holds the fabric off of your face. The outer Todd-Tex fabric closes it all with a double toggle zipper, covering flap and rain gutter. Roomy enough to accommodate an inflated pad and winter bag without compressing the loft. Asking $155.00 inclusive of shipping cost.
  8. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    It ain't cheap, but it's only "expensive" by Mexican standards. With a group of two or more people, an economy rental is a pretty good deal. As for traffic, it's not bad once you get out of Mexico City, though there are some conventions you need to get used to, like people passing down the middle of a 2-lane road with wide shoulders. I was just down there in February, and did not find it too stressful.
  9. Rooster Rock

    ORPD has closed RR for climbing till July 1st...due to a nesting Peregrine Falcon at the summit...
  10. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Drew: Where was your first picture taken? It looks like a road or tracks down near the shoreline... Follow Up Question: In your experience, how much of the recent increase (seemingly) in mass wasting do you feel can be directly attributed to climate change?
  11. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Regarding car rental: For one, yes- you need to add insurance , which makes rental more $$$, but it's a must. Second, can you handle traffic and how they drive there, particularly in smaller towns?
  12. Patellofemoral Pain

    I second @JasonG. You could also try a sports med doc. Some combination of physical exam and imaging may reveal your issue, which is the first step in coming up with a solution. Good luck!
  13. Alpine Dads wanted

    I didn’t get a partner for this weekend and was going to head up to WA pass and go skiing. If you want to meet up out there for a climbing day that would be great. Send me a message if you are interested.
  14. Alpine Dads wanted

    I just made a google doc sheet with all names and e-mails, etc. If you didn't get an invite, PM me with your name, e-mail and phone number to add you.
  15. Patellofemoral Pain

    Sorry for the obvious, but have you talked to a good ortho about it?
  16. I was wondering about that section with snow on it. I've gone thru that a couple times when dry and it does get your attention.
  17. Patellofemoral Pain

    Hey guys, Thought I'd post in here, as I'm sort of running out of ideas on how to attack this damn patellofemoral pain.I'm a snowboard alpinist, and specialize in steep, technical lines. Been doing it coming on 20 years. I also did research in exercise physiology in grad school, so I know my training and orthopedics extremely well. I've bumped into a brick wall though, and need some feedback.... Back in late January I was doing some snowboard training, working on "brink of destruction" heelside carving. This is a key skill for us shredders, as the heelside turn on big exposed faces is critical. It takes a moderately deep squat, and puts your lower extremity under tremendous load. I noticed a sharp "TWING" in my left knee on a couple turns, so I backed off. No pain after, and was shredding pain free for several weeks after. Fast forward to late February, and I did a regular zone 2 / 3 trail run. It was a mid day "lunch lap", and so I kept it mellow and short. Just 5 miles and 1,400 vertical over 1 hour. I've done this run over a hundred times. The next day I had quite a bit of pain in both patellas. This is totally new for me, as I've been one of the lucky ones who HASN'T blown his knee out. Rested a couple days, then was out on the splitboard and the pain got A LOT worse. Its been coming on 3 months, and I keep finding myself in these "rest / rehab until minimal pain, then test the waters" cycles. In this time I've developed a new crepitus (crackling sound) in my left kneecap, and I can't seem to get away with even mellow spins on the mountain bike or "walk / jog" exercise without it getting pissed off and feeling like I'm doing more permanent damage. Its also completely stopped my splitboarding dead in the skintrack, and even mellow climbing is off limits because I can't walk downhill without it becoming very painful. I'm extremely well educated in patellofemoral tracking, hip & knee mechanics, proper footwear for pronation etc... I don't think my problem is a mal-alignment issue so much as it is a tissue overload injury. I also know that chondromalacia on its own is not a "strong" statistical predictor for anterior knee pain, as much of the asymptomatic population has some degree of cartilage wear / tear. So the pain has to be coming (probably) from an overload of the subchondral bone or synovium. It feels like bone pain though... My question for any other athletes, PT's or athletic trainers on here, is what is your guy's / gal's experience with the prognosis for moderately severe patellofemoral pain syndrome? And what strategies have helped you or your patients / clients? Lastly, what kind of timeline have you all experienced with this damn problem? For reference I'm 35 years old, so I'm not made of plastic anymore, but still at my peak physical powers and still full of angst to get rad in the mountains! Its a damn frustrating injury. I feel that my fitness has been peaking this year higher than any previous year. I had a Liberty Ridge climb planned, and several other super fun and interesting steep snowboard objectives in line for this spring that are now as far as I can tell, totally fucked by this injury. I'm concerned now that this damn knee pain may severely hamper my mountaineering career, if not has the potential to end it completely. I mean, shit man, I survived a rollover car crash that broke my back and blew out a disc, and this knee pain scares me more than THAT injury did! Thanks so much for any insight / guidance guys!!
  18. Alpine Dads wanted

    hey Alpine dads, anyone interested in a one day craggin trip somewhere between and including exit whatever up to squish or l'worth? or alpine rock up at the wa pass? looking to keep it below the 5.10's whatever day is fine this memorial day weekend
  19. Hi I am Fred from Austria - Graz , 66 years old and guide of the Austrian Alpine assicoation for over 8 years. My favorite walks/climbs anre not heavy rock cliombing but mixed tours as Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Blanc, Mt. Grossglockner, Island Peak I am in USA, Seattle from June 18 - July 1st 2019 and would be happy to climb one of the interesting mountains in the area - as Mt. Rainier or Mt. Adams or ...? If someone is interested to have a tour with me please send me an email to fritzgue@aon.at See you Fred
  20. So I am New England climber that just came upon this site. I retired a year ago and just turned 60. With this newly found time on my hands, l am looking to up my game and climbing opportunities, but finding partners of similar desire and freedom can be difficult. I consider myself a solid moderate climber with 40 years of experience though I have not spent a lot of time in the Cascades. In recent years I have done Forbidden and Liberty Ridge. I do have a strong affection for the Canadian Rockies and have done many peaks there. After Forbidden last summer I have come to realize what a great playground you have. So the short of it is that I am looking for individuals with time and desire to get into the hills. If you find yourself in a similar situation please get in touch. I can also be contacted through mountainproject Robert Plucenik Brooklyn CT
  21. Mid/late June footwear

    1st issue is I have no idea how you would reconnect a new cable where the single arrow is pointing then after that how do you get down into the side where the 2 arrows are pointing to run thru the threader in that area.
  22. Mid/late June footwear

    I meant the super gaiter/overboots for future endeavors when needed(Denali, etc.) Im not sure what would have to happen on Rainier for me to need overboots on top of the G2s but whatever it is I doubt I would want to be up there when it did lol. I like the g2. Seems I am on the cusp on size so have to go up to a 46.5 from a 46. The G2 definitely runs small. Volume is good though. My cubes fit in a 46. No toe bang, nodda. The G2s if I force my foot I can press my toes against the front of the boot. Only thing that worries me on the G2 is from the design if the lower boa goes its gonna be a sob to replace it. Maybe there is a trick to it but from what I see just to reroute it is gonna be a severe pita.
  23. Mid/late June footwear

    you will not want the overboots. that is a specific condition item, like butt ass cold and requires crampons. I doubt that you will be or want to be in crampons for the whole day. I doubt your guide will allow you to use them. I had super gaiters and snow will sneak in around the rubber rand and you r boots will get wet anyways. I have guided in cascades for 8 years and very familiar with slogging up volcanoes around here. You will be glad to bring double plastic boots over leather. Leather boots are fine mid july and on. You can get by with leather boots (history has shown that old timers climbed plenty of bad ass shit with loafers) but you will be much happier with something that you can remove the liner and dry out daily.
  24. Media rate shipping included in the price. Buy 2 titles and select 1 from the complimentary list. Click this link for this list: --------------- ----------------Climbing Guides---------- Bonney's Guide - Excellent thumbed through condition, near new. $12.00. ---------------------------- - Very good condition except 1st page with publishers info is torn out. $8.00 ------------------- - Good well perused condition with a solid spine. $14.00 ----------------- - Good, moderately used condition with a solid binding. $12.00 ------------------- - Good, moderately used condition. $11.00 ---------------------------------- - Good, moderately used condition. Asking $12.00. -------------------- Very good condition. Notations and comment here and there by the previous owner. $9.00. -------------------------- Well used, no issues, solid spine, some notations. Former owners name on inside of back cover. $10.00. --------------- Fair, well used condition. Back cover is 1/8 torn along the spine and I've taped it. Binding solid. Appearance is deteriorated but book is overall strong. $10.00. ------------- Very good thumbed through condition. $9.00. ------------------------ And, Some Climbing History Excellent condition. $9.00 ------------------------- Nearly new condition. $9.00
  25. RIP Supertopo.com forum

    getting harder n' harder to be a rare-olde ray-tard on the internutz these dayz
  26. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    We took a cab from DF to Apizaco for a Malinche hike. It was a bit pricey, but we were in a hurry, and didn’t have the lay of the land—transport-wise. Bus from there to Tlachichuca (and back to DF) was cheap and quite nice. It was nice to actually be in the culture for a minute, instead of always being the rushing tourist. I read something about the mandatory insurance for car rentals being expensive, so I didn’t dig deeper. That said, there were a few parties (even twosomes) of climbers who did rent, so it can’t be that bad. I really don’t know...
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