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  2. Patellofemoral Pain

    Hey guys, Thought I'd post in here, as I'm sort of running out of ideas on how to attack this damn patellofemoral pain.I'm a snowboard alpinist, and specialize in steep, technical lines. Been doing it coming on 20 years. I also did research in exercise physiology in grad school, so I know my training and orthopedics extremely well. I've bumped into a brick wall though, and need some feedback.... Back in late January I was doing some snowboard training, working on "brink of destruction" heelside carving. This is a key skill for us shredders, as the heelside turn on big exposed faces is critical. It takes a moderately deep squat, and puts your lower extremity under tremendous load. I noticed a sharp "TWING" in my left knee on a couple turns, so I backed off. No pain after, and was shredding pain free for several weeks after. Fast forward to late February, and I did a regular zone 2 / 3 trail run. It was a mid day "lunch lap", and so I kept it mellow and short. Just 5 miles and 1,400 vertical over 1 hour. I've done this run over a hundred times. The next day I had quite a bit of pain in both patellas. This is totally new for me, as I've been one of the lucky ones who HASN'T blown his knee out. Rested a couple days, then was out on the splitboard and the pain got A LOT worse. Its been coming on 3 months, and I keep finding myself in these "rest / rehab until minimal pain, then test the waters" cycles. In this time I've developed a new crepitus (crackling sound) in my left kneecap, and I can't seem to get away with even mellow spins on the mountain bike or "walk / jog" exercise without it getting pissed off and feeling like I'm doing more permanent damage. Its also completely stopped my splitboarding dead in the skintrack, and even mellow climbing is off limits because I can't walk downhill without it becoming very painful. I'm extremely well educated in patellofemoral tracking, hip & knee mechanics, proper footwear for pronation etc... I don't think my problem is a mal-alignment issue so much as it is a tissue overload injury. I also know that chondromalacia on its own is not a "strong" statistical predictor for anterior knee pain, as much of the asymptomatic population has some degree of cartilage wear / tear. So the pain has to be coming (probably) from an overload of the subchondral bone or synovium. It feels like bone pain though... My question for any other athletes, PT's or athletic trainers on here, is what is your guy's / gal's experience with the prognosis for moderately severe patellofemoral pain syndrome? And what strategies have helped you or your patients / clients? Lastly, what kind of timeline have you all experienced with this damn problem? For reference I'm 35 years old, so I'm not made of plastic anymore, but still at my peak physical powers and still full of angst to get rad in the mountains! Its a damn frustrating injury. I feel that my fitness has been peaking this year higher than any previous year. I had a Liberty Ridge climb planned, and several other super fun and interesting steep snowboard objectives in line for this spring that are now as far as I can tell, totally fucked by this injury. I'm concerned now that this damn knee pain may severely hamper my mountaineering career, if not has the potential to end it completely. I mean, shit man, I survived a rollover car crash that broke my back and blew out a disc, and this knee pain scares me more than THAT injury did! Thanks so much for any insight / guidance guys!!
  3. Alpine Dads wanted

    hey Alpine dads, anyone interested in a one day craggin trip somewhere between and including exit whatever up to squish or l'worth? or alpine rock up at the wa pass? looking to keep it below the 5.10's whatever day is fine this memorial day weekend
  4. Today
  5. Hi I am Fred from Austria - Graz , 66 years old and guide of the Austrian Alpine assicoation for over 8 years. My favorite walks/climbs anre not heavy rock cliombing but mixed tours as Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Blanc, Mt. Grossglockner, Island Peak I am in USA, Seattle from June 18 - July 1st 2019 and would be happy to climb one of the interesting mountains in the area - as Mt. Rainier or Mt. Adams or ...? If someone is interested to have a tour with me please send me an email to fritzgue@aon.at See you Fred
  6. So I am New England climber that just came upon this site. I retired a year ago and just turned 60. With this newly found time on my hands, l am looking to up my game and climbing opportunities, but finding partners of similar desire and freedom can be difficult. I consider myself a solid moderate climber with 40 years of experience though I have not spent a lot of time in the Cascades. In recent years I have done Forbidden and Liberty Ridge. I do have a strong affection for the Canadian Rockies and have done many peaks there. After Forbidden last summer I have come to realize what a great playground you have. So the short of it is that I am looking for individuals with time and desire to get into the hills. If you find yourself in a similar situation please get in touch. I can also be contacted through mountainproject Robert Plucenik Brooklyn CT
  7. Mid/late June footwear

    1st issue is I have no idea how you would reconnect a new cable where the single arrow is pointing then after that how do you get down into the side where the 2 arrows are pointing to run thru the threader in that area.
  8. Mid/late June footwear

    I meant the super gaiter/overboots for future endeavors when needed(Denali, etc.) Im not sure what would have to happen on Rainier for me to need overboots on top of the G2s but whatever it is I doubt I would want to be up there when it did lol. I like the g2. Seems I am on the cusp on size so have to go up to a 46.5 from a 46. The G2 definitely runs small. Volume is good though. My cubes fit in a 46. No toe bang, nodda. The G2s if I force my foot I can press my toes against the front of the boot. Only thing that worries me on the G2 is from the design if the lower boa goes its gonna be a sob to replace it. Maybe there is a trick to it but from what I see just to reroute it is gonna be a severe pita.
  9. Mid/late June footwear

    you will not want the overboots. that is a specific condition item, like butt ass cold and requires crampons. I doubt that you will be or want to be in crampons for the whole day. I doubt your guide will allow you to use them. I had super gaiters and snow will sneak in around the rubber rand and you r boots will get wet anyways. I have guided in cascades for 8 years and very familiar with slogging up volcanoes around here. You will be glad to bring double plastic boots over leather. Leather boots are fine mid july and on. You can get by with leather boots (history has shown that old timers climbed plenty of bad ass shit with loafers) but you will be much happier with something that you can remove the liner and dry out daily.
  10. Media rate shipping included in the price. Buy 2, choose a free title from the complimentary list here: --------------- - Very good condition except 1st page with publishers info is torn out. $8.00 ------------------- - Good well perused condition with a solid spine. $14.00 ----------------- - Good, moderately used condition with a solid binding. $12.00 ------------------- - Good, moderately used condition. $11.00 ---------------------------------- - Good, moderately used condition. Asking $12.00. -------------------- Very good condition. Notations and comment here and there by the previous owner. $9.00. -------------------------- Well used, no issues, solid spine, some notations. Former owners name on inside of back cover. $10.00. --------------- Fair, well used condition. Back cover is 1/8 torn along the spine and I've taped it. Binding solid. Appearance is deteriorated but book is overall strong. $10.00. ------------- Very good thumbed through condition. $9.00. ------------------------ And, Some Climbing History Excellent condition. $9.00 ------------------------- Nearly new condition. $9.00
  11. RIP Supertopo.com forum

    getting harder n' harder to be a rare-olde ray-tard on the internutz these dayz
  12. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    We took a cab from DF to Apizaco for a Malinche hike. It was a bit pricey, but we were in a hurry, and didn’t have the lay of the land—transport-wise. Bus from there to Tlachichuca (and back to DF) was cheap and quite nice. It was nice to actually be in the culture for a minute, instead of always being the rushing tourist. I read something about the mandatory insurance for car rentals being expensive, so I didn’t dig deeper. That said, there were a few parties (even twosomes) of climbers who did rent, so it can’t be that bad. I really don’t know...
  13. Yesterday
  14. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Good point. I've read that you can get a taxi, bus, or even hire a driver to Puebla and Tlachichuca for pretty reasonable. Less than $100 to hire a driver and probably much less for a bus. I wonder how much a rental car would cost for the trip?
  15. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Seems pretty common to drive to Tlachichuca in a rental, then arrange higher transport through Servimont. They shuttle up and down all the time. It’s also a convenient place to get fuel.
  16. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    @Need2Climb I'm headed to Orizaba and probably one other peak in the area over 4-5 days including Thanksgiving and that weekend. My wife has already agreed to let me miss Thanksgiving this year so long as she doesn't have to spend it with my side of the family. It's a win-win. I never use guides if I can help it. I just research the heck out of my trips and put a lot of prep into them. So far I have one tentative partner. My plan is to go cheap as possible. I like the flexibility of the rental car idea, but only if I can split it between 4 people. It would need to be a 4x4 for the drive to Orizaba. I also posted on your Alpine Dad's thread. You seem to have many of the same plans as me this year. Feel free to PM me. Maybe we can work things out.
  17. Alpine Dads wanted

    I'm 37 and live in Vancouver WA. My kids are ages 9 (boy), 10 (boy) , 12 (girl). I'm always looking for capable people to climb with in the alpine until my kids are old enough to be those people. I've been ticking off the all the major peaks in the Cascades for the past year (Hood in Winter and Spring, Helens 3 times, and Adams so far). My plans for this year are Baker, Rainier, Adams again, Helens again, Bailey, and Orizaba (Mexico). I'm having trouble finding dependable partners for these longer trips so hit me up if you can stick to a date.
  18. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    No more West Ridge, but hey...
  19. I think it's SOP for Buckner's North Face to climb unroped after exiting the Boston Glacier. It's too steep to arrest a rope mate's fall and aren't any (many?) crevasses once across the bergschrund. Sounds like Alisse just discovered a random thin spot where a moat was lurking.
  20. Alpine Mentors Videos

    Worth a watch... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOYnpuacr0hmFlciAgGvMYw/videos
  21. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Volcano is a volcano. Do not expect technical aspect in either place. Also 1 week is a very short trip, so travel time counts.
  22. Anyone have a spare they don't need? If you're in Portland, I'm happy to swing by and swap you a beer for it.
  23. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Thanks. Good info. For Mexico, I wouldn't want a guide. Looking for more of a logistical planner. I sent Servimont an email regarding that. Thanks for the tip. After researching Ecuador, guides are required. They won't let you climb without one. Still very much in planning phase and cost. Mexico is cheaper, but less "real mountaineering" other than altitude. Equador seems more expensive but appears to be more glacier climbing. At the end, it will come down to cost vs reward. If anyone has an ecuadorian guide company they recommend, please share. No way am I going with an American one like RMI. The prices they charge are outrageous, and I dont meed or want the pampering they do.
  24. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Hey, who's this guy? "Hydrologist and geoscientist Drew Brayshaw, who has climbed extensively in the area, says it appears the first slide sent a flow of debris more than four km down Cerise Creek, east of Joffre Lakes Provincial Park." https://www.citynews1130.com/2019/05/18/major-slides-rip-away-north-face-of-joffre-peak-near-pemberton-b-c/
  25. Denali food planning

    Probably after June 01.
  26. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I though it's climbing site, and we were talking rockfall on climbing routes. I think you mistakenly logged into cascadelimbers, but intended on some form of hiking site?
  27. Oh, I'm not second guessing your decisions. I'm just glad you're OK. Really. Trying to get out. It's never enough.
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