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  1. Today
  2. John Stoddard's Passing

    Lesley I'm very sorry to hear of John's passing. I barely knew him - we were referred to each other by Bryce Simon, I believe - and we did only one climb together, the 1977 first ascent of the East Buttress of Mt. Slesse. I just happened to run across a recent routes guide to the East side of the mountain online and found our names, which led to wondering whatever became of John, and here I am popping out of the past, late as usual. I'm afraid I have little to add to his remembrance save that he was comfortable to be with and held up his end of the rope, saving my 24-year old ass with a smooth belay when a little nubbin crumbled under a skyhook and a #1 hexcentric about 8 ft below held (barely - the cord was halfway broken). This was on the thin face pitch above the point where the buttress dies into the East Face - a very airy, hairy crux to be climbing in alpine packs. A haul line would have been a nice addition to our skimpy equipage - and a couple more bottles of water. Fortunately it wasn't too long for us and the terrain eased into a series of shallow steps, all rounded but with good holds. It was still a fair ways before I found any decent anchor. We descended via the North Ridge with a couple of rappels through the cliffs. John got a little testy with me when I tied off and dangled in a blueberry patch for a few minutes while he waited below ignorant of my bliss. All the best Dennis Attached photo may be from the same descent route on an earlier climb of the N.E. Buttress route I did with Dave Tucker in '75 or '76.
  3. Awesome trip and photos! I will have to hire JGAP LLC for next year!* *Paid endorsement
  4. This is the version without the tie-in loop and is a size long. It is practically unused and in mint condition. Waterproof/breathable Todd-Tex on top with a polyurethane coated nylon bottom. The opening has bug netting and a pliable wire hoop holds the fabric off of your face. The outer Todd-Tex fabric closes it all with a double toggle zipper, covering flap and rain gutter. Roomy enough to accommodate an inflated pad and winter bag without compressing the loft. Asking $145.00 inclusive of shipping cost.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    It ain't cheap, but it's only "expensive" by Mexican standards. With a group of two or more people, an economy rental is a pretty good deal. As for traffic, it's not bad once you get out of Mexico City, though there are some conventions you need to get used to, like people passing down the middle of a 2-lane road with wide shoulders. I was just down there in February, and did not find it too stressful.
  7. Rooster Rock

    ORPD has closed RR for climbing till July 1st...due to a nesting Peregrine Falcon at the summit...
  8. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Drew: Where was your first picture taken? It looks like a road or tracks down near the shoreline... Follow Up Question: In your experience, how much of the recent increase (seemingly) in mass wasting do you feel can be directly attributed to climate change?
  9. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Regarding car rental: For one, yes- you need to add insurance , which makes rental more $$$, but it's a must. Second, can you handle traffic and how they drive there, particularly in smaller towns?
  10. Patellofemoral Pain

    I second @JasonG. You could also try a sports med doc. Some combination of physical exam and imaging may reveal your issue, which is the first step in coming up with a solution. Good luck!
  11. Last week
  12. Alpine Dads wanted

    I didn’t get a partner for this weekend and was going to head up to WA pass and go skiing. If you want to meet up out there for a climbing day that would be great. Send me a message if you are interested.
  13. Alpine Dads wanted

    I just made a google doc sheet with all names and e-mails, etc. If you didn't get an invite, PM me with your name, e-mail and phone number to add you.
  14. Patellofemoral Pain

    Sorry for the obvious, but have you talked to a good ortho about it?
  15. I was wondering about that section with snow on it. I've gone thru that a couple times when dry and it does get your attention.
  16. Patellofemoral Pain

    Hey guys, Thought I'd post in here, as I'm sort of running out of ideas on how to attack this damn patellofemoral pain.I'm a snowboard alpinist, and specialize in steep, technical lines. Been doing it coming on 20 years. I also did research in exercise physiology in grad school, so I know my training and orthopedics extremely well. I've bumped into a brick wall though, and need some feedback.... Back in late January I was doing some snowboard training, working on "brink of destruction" heelside carving. This is a key skill for us shredders, as the heelside turn on big exposed faces is critical. It takes a moderately deep squat, and puts your lower extremity under tremendous load. I noticed a sharp "TWING" in my left knee on a couple turns, so I backed off. No pain after, and was shredding pain free for several weeks after. Fast forward to late February, and I did a regular zone 2 / 3 trail run. It was a mid day "lunch lap", and so I kept it mellow and short. Just 5 miles and 1,400 vertical over 1 hour. I've done this run over a hundred times. The next day I had quite a bit of pain in both patellas. This is totally new for me, as I've been one of the lucky ones who HASN'T blown his knee out. Rested a couple days, then was out on the splitboard and the pain got A LOT worse. Its been coming on 3 months, and I keep finding myself in these "rest / rehab until minimal pain, then test the waters" cycles. In this time I've developed a new crepitus (crackling sound) in my left kneecap, and I can't seem to get away with even mellow spins on the mountain bike or "walk / jog" exercise without it getting pissed off and feeling like I'm doing more permanent damage. Its also completely stopped my splitboarding dead in the skintrack, and even mellow climbing is off limits because I can't walk downhill without it becoming very painful. I'm extremely well educated in patellofemoral tracking, hip & knee mechanics, proper footwear for pronation etc... I don't think my problem is a mal-alignment issue so much as it is a tissue overload injury. I also know that chondromalacia on its own is not a "strong" statistical predictor for anterior knee pain, as much of the asymptomatic population has some degree of cartilage wear / tear. So the pain has to be coming (probably) from an overload of the subchondral bone or synovium. It feels like bone pain though... My question for any other athletes, PT's or athletic trainers on here, is what is your guy's / gal's experience with the prognosis for moderately severe patellofemoral pain syndrome? And what strategies have helped you or your patients / clients? Lastly, what kind of timeline have you all experienced with this damn problem? For reference I'm 35 years old, so I'm not made of plastic anymore, but still at my peak physical powers and still full of angst to get rad in the mountains! Its a damn frustrating injury. I feel that my fitness has been peaking this year higher than any previous year. I had a Liberty Ridge climb planned, and several other super fun and interesting steep snowboard objectives in line for this spring that are now as far as I can tell, totally fucked by this injury. I'm concerned now that this damn knee pain may severely hamper my mountaineering career, if not has the potential to end it completely. I mean, shit man, I survived a rollover car crash that broke my back and blew out a disc, and this knee pain scares me more than THAT injury did! Thanks so much for any insight / guidance guys!!
  17. Alpine Dads wanted

    hey Alpine dads, anyone interested in a one day craggin trip somewhere between and including exit whatever up to squish or l'worth? or alpine rock up at the wa pass? looking to keep it below the 5.10's whatever day is fine this memorial day weekend
  18. Hi I am Fred from Austria - Graz , 66 years old and guide of the Austrian Alpine assicoation for over 8 years. My favorite walks/climbs anre not heavy rock cliombing but mixed tours as Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Blanc, Mt. Grossglockner, Island Peak I am in USA, Seattle from June 18 - July 1st 2019 and would be happy to climb one of the interesting mountains in the area - as Mt. Rainier or Mt. Adams or ...? If someone is interested to have a tour with me please send me an email to fritzgue@aon.at See you Fred
  19. So I am New England climber that just came upon this site. I retired a year ago and just turned 60. With this newly found time on my hands, l am looking to up my game and climbing opportunities, but finding partners of similar desire and freedom can be difficult. I consider myself a solid moderate climber with 40 years of experience though I have not spent a lot of time in the Cascades. In recent years I have done Forbidden and Liberty Ridge. I do have a strong affection for the Canadian Rockies and have done many peaks there. After Forbidden last summer I have come to realize what a great playground you have. So the short of it is that I am looking for individuals with time and desire to get into the hills. If you find yourself in a similar situation please get in touch. I can also be contacted through mountainproject Robert Plucenik Brooklyn CT
  20. Mid/late June footwear

    1st issue is I have no idea how you would reconnect a new cable where the single arrow is pointing then after that how do you get down into the side where the 2 arrows are pointing to run thru the threader in that area.
  21. Mid/late June footwear

    I meant the super gaiter/overboots for future endeavors when needed(Denali, etc.) Im not sure what would have to happen on Rainier for me to need overboots on top of the G2s but whatever it is I doubt I would want to be up there when it did lol. I like the g2. Seems I am on the cusp on size so have to go up to a 46.5 from a 46. The G2 definitely runs small. Volume is good though. My cubes fit in a 46. No toe bang, nodda. The G2s if I force my foot I can press my toes against the front of the boot. Only thing that worries me on the G2 is from the design if the lower boa goes its gonna be a sob to replace it. Maybe there is a trick to it but from what I see just to reroute it is gonna be a severe pita.
  22. Mid/late June footwear

    you will not want the overboots. that is a specific condition item, like butt ass cold and requires crampons. I doubt that you will be or want to be in crampons for the whole day. I doubt your guide will allow you to use them. I had super gaiters and snow will sneak in around the rubber rand and you r boots will get wet anyways. I have guided in cascades for 8 years and very familiar with slogging up volcanoes around here. You will be glad to bring double plastic boots over leather. Leather boots are fine mid july and on. You can get by with leather boots (history has shown that old timers climbed plenty of bad ass shit with loafers) but you will be much happier with something that you can remove the liner and dry out daily.
  23. Media rate shipping included in the price. Buy 2 titles and select 1 from the complimentary list. Click this link for this list: --------------- Climbing Guides - Very good condition except 1st page with publishers info is torn out. $8.00 ------------------- - Good well perused condition with a solid spine. $14.00 ----------------- - Good, moderately used condition with a solid binding. $12.00 ------------------- - Good, moderately used condition. $11.00 ---------------------------------- - Good, moderately used condition. Asking $12.00. -------------------- Very good condition. Notations and comment here and there by the previous owner. $9.00. -------------------------- Well used, no issues, solid spine, some notations. Former owners name on inside of back cover. $10.00. --------------- Fair, well used condition. Back cover is 1/8 torn along the spine and I've taped it. Binding solid. Appearance is deteriorated but book is overall strong. $10.00. ------------- Very good thumbed through condition. $9.00. ------------------------ And, Some Climbing History Excellent condition. $9.00 ------------------------- Nearly new condition. $9.00
  24. RIP Supertopo.com forum

    getting harder n' harder to be a rare-olde ray-tard on the internutz these dayz
  25. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    We took a cab from DF to Apizaco for a Malinche hike. It was a bit pricey, but we were in a hurry, and didn’t have the lay of the land—transport-wise. Bus from there to Tlachichuca (and back to DF) was cheap and quite nice. It was nice to actually be in the culture for a minute, instead of always being the rushing tourist. I read something about the mandatory insurance for car rentals being expensive, so I didn’t dig deeper. That said, there were a few parties (even twosomes) of climbers who did rent, so it can’t be that bad. I really don’t know...
  26. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Good point. I've read that you can get a taxi, bus, or even hire a driver to Puebla and Tlachichuca for pretty reasonable. Less than $100 to hire a driver and probably much less for a bus. I wonder how much a rental car would cost for the trip?
  27. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Seems pretty common to drive to Tlachichuca in a rental, then arrange higher transport through Servimont. They shuttle up and down all the time. It’s also a convenient place to get fuel.
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