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  2. Mid/late June footwear

    Thats what I was thinking with the G2. I also want to run Cotopaxi, Blanc, the Matterhorn and a few other objectives so they will give me some flexibility. The more and more I think on it too much boot isnt a bad thing. Yeah, might be warm but weighed against the option of being too cold I will happily embrace it lol. Plus I have fat feet so I can afford to sweat a little weight off.
  3. Trip: Forbidden Tour - Standard plus Eldrorado ski Trip Date: 05/05/2019 Trip Report: I'd been wanting to do this tour for more than a dozen years and I wasn't disappointed....Let's just say that. We did it in a leisurely three days (camp one below Sharkin) which allowed for a full afternoon of oogling at one of the premiere deep holes in the range - Moraine Lake. Often looked at, but rarely visited, it has vistas that even Harvey Manning would struggle to translate into words. If you follow our itinerary, on days one and three you should expect shenanigans, which are mostly unavoidable, but such is the price for one of the great adventures in the range. It is worth the price of admission. Special kudos to the young Tyler, for putting up with the predictable banter (chronic pain, kids, politics, etc.) from a bunch of middle aged dudes for a few days, and gamely signing onto a trip where he didn't know any of us. Your enthusiasm for the range will serve you for many years! I could've spoiled it for you with a lot more info, but I'll let you dream about it for a few years and imagine, like I did. Gear Notes: Skis or splitboard. Whippet or light axe. Boot crampons, ski crampons, helmet, crevasse rescue gear, enough rope for a 30m rap. Approach Notes: Sharkfin col (go up the easy gulley but not all the way- turn left halfway up to established station) to Boston Gl. to Forbidden Gl to Moraine Lake to Inspiration and out standard Eldo trail.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I always wondered about those routes when I looked at them in the Beckey guide. Anyone know if there are any recorded ascents other than the FA's?
  6. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Many of the FA routes in the Northern Pickets, which followed glaciers from Luna Cirque that have retreated and broken up enough since the 1940s to make them completely different and possibly unclimbable. The same probably goes for some of the less-common routes on the NE face of Johannesburg.
  7. Mid/late June footwear

    I have luck with Sportiva fit. My Pamirs, Lhotses, Cubes... all fit without a quibble. Granted I have various volumes of SF insoles to tweak footwear fit but nevertheless. For $637 I had no problem pulling the trigger on the G2s. Will run them on Rainier in June for the seminar. If my feet are a lill warm oh well. Plus they will serve me well further down. When I sat back and thought on it it makes sense. If I dont buy them now I will most certainly buy them later so may as well get it over with. Was a lil wigged out on the potential for boa failure but from what I have heard those who have had issue done so when the boot was early to the market. I will carry a kit regardless.
  8. for sale FS/FT alpine gear

    Getting rid of some stuff I don’t need Nothface Bibs $90 Thermarest Prolite (patched hole) $35 Scarpa Phantom Techs $250 REI -20 bag $100 Bug Agnes Lost ranger 15 degree bad Large $160 (stuff and storage sack) Big Agnes Roxanne Women’s bag $160 (stuff and storage sack) prusiks (sold) helmet (sold) OR Gloves (sold)
  9. Mid/late June footwear

    That is solid grounding. Unfortunately, lines like GoreTex simply don't work. I am a big believer in leather boot maintenance with a beeswax/polyurethane product, the waterproofing is abraded quickly by the ice crystals and won't keep boots dry past day three, assuming you are on glaciers all day. Something along the lines of Scarpa Phantom or similar would be ideal for Rainier. You could go to a warmer model for Denali and use them on both trips.
  10. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    The giant piece of rock had already fallen off high, and climber's left when I attempted it on June 21, 1998. I don't think it really changed the route???? It certainly still goes.
  11. That was most of the fun part of climbing with her. Climbing had become so predictable, but climbing with YocumRidge always went side ways, but in a good way.
  12. Somehow I missed this. Nice job! Looks like a lovely adventure - except for falling into a crevasse/hole up to your chest - were you roped up? If not, yikes!
  13. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Did the a lower part of the Girth Pilar on Stuart fall off ~10-12 years ago? Think the route still goes but the lower pitches changed?
  14. The Parawing is a tarp with a parabolic cut. It was designed and marketed by Bill Moss founder of Moss Tents in Camden, Maine. Technically it is described as a "hyperbolic paraboloid with compound curves". This is a used, original 19' Parawing being sold with the poles, stakes, stuff sacks and guy lines. The color is a yellowish tan. It is in good overall condition and has not been set up for extended periods of time. The color doesn't appear significantly faded. There are some stains consistent with use and I have done some restoration in preparation for sale. Several pinhead sized campfire spark holes received a dab of Seam Grip and 4 larger about pea sized that I patched with nylon taffeta fabric and Seam Grip. Otherwise, the seams and guyline attachment points stitching is sound and I have cleaned the the tarp without any particular effort to remove dirt and tree stains. - 1.9 ounce per sq yard ripstop nylon with polyurethane coating. Coating is about 99% intact and without odor. - 2, 8 foot long, three section Reynolds 6061-T6 seamless aircraft aluminum poles without shock cord which allows a section to be removed and the fly pitched closer to the surface when needed. I'm asking $245.00 inclusive of shipping cost to the lower 48. PPFF or please add the 4% goods fee if you prefer. (The shadow spots on photo's are due to my old camera)
  15. wondering if anyone has been up Yak Peak this year. With the great weather we have been having is the face dry or wet? Thinking of heading up Yak Check this weekend. Will I be post-holing or skating on the way down ? Don’t really want to bring boots and crampons.
  16. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    CBR. Not sure what route(s) were lost.
  17. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Leaning tower at Vantage. Yeah, it's not alpine, but it is in the Cascades...kinda. Was pushed over about 15 years ago.
  18. Last week
  19. Mid/late June footwear

    Gear is such a pita lol
  20. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I didn’t realize those were in the Cascades. Stay on topic dammit!
  21. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I climbed the iconic face of the Old Man on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire about a year before it finally fell off the mountain. In terms of famous routes, the NW Face of Half Dome is probably near the top of the list.
  22. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    So with the north face of Joffre spontaneously collapsing, Supertopo shutting down and CC.com slowly withering on the vine my mood shifts to considering the impermanence of everything. What other peaks and routes have seen their last ascent in our lifetimes? Gene Pires and I once made the possibly second and possibly last ascent of the IV 5.10+ east-north buttress of Castle Peak in the Pasayten wilderness. A year or two ago someone posted pics where at least the first 5 pitches of the route had collapsed. Off the top of my head Anything on St Helens 1980 East face of main Gunsight. A III 5.9 established in the early 1990s that had disappeared without a trace (except for a fixed stopper just below the summit) by the time interest in the area renewed. East-north buttress of Castle Peak. A good but flaky route on clean granite that fell off during the winter of 2016/2017. Trigger Finger in Peshastin Pinnacles. Someone on this site had a good story about recreating a clown-car on the summit shortly, as in day of or before, it collapsed. An impressive looking pillar on the east side of Mt Rexford just over the Canadian Border, with an unrepeated V on it, had a major rockfall event that erased the route. What else peeps?
  23. [TR] Mt. Shuksan - Price Glacier 08/04/2018

    If you want a good epic Miss YocumRidge is probably your go to partner. In other thoughts I'm always surprised that young men (and some women) don't die in much greater numbers.
  24. RIP Supertopo.com forum

    Shutting down June 1 to read only
  25. Mid/late June footwear

    Just ordered a pair of g2 sms lol. May be a little warm for June on Rainier but will work for Denali which is a goal. If they tell me these arent sufficient for Rainier I quit lol. Im blaming DPS for my purchase. Thats what I told the wife. "DPS told me to do it." I got them for $637 so not much more than the cubes.
  26. Mid/late June footwear

    All of my leather gets treated with either Obenaufs LP or Watershield. LP + a hairdryer can minimize leather absorbing water tremendously. In all seriousness if I need to pick up a new pair of boots just for this Rainier trip Im just gonna go climb Blanc. ....for the cost I may as well lol. Ive done fine in temps colder than anything I would encounter up there. Like I said 35yrs+ and subjected to some very cold temps for extended periods and no immediate bail out option. You subject yourself to enough of those types of forays you learn what works and what doesnt quick. Take away altitude cold is cold regardless of terrain. Leather sucks up moisture? Treat the leather so it doesnt. Sweat issues? Thats what vbl liners are for. If the gtx membrane works as it should then water should not impede from the outside to the inside. Ive worked construction sites for years in my Danner Super Rain Forests in really wet muddy weather and in the 8yrs and 2 resoles I have owned them not 1 time did they wet out on the inner nor did the leather suck up moisture. I think the thing is some dont deal with their leather, it sucks up moisture, which results in the boots not breathing which results in soaked feet. Been there lol. I know high alpine sheep hunters who deal with gnarly weather and they dont wear doubles. Heck people have climbed in full leather Super Guides for years. ...some still do. I hate plastics with a passion lol. So much that if this trip requires them I will do something else.
  27. Mid/late June footwear

    My only rule is I wont do summer because you can always put enough on but you cant always take enough off plus humidity out here is bonkers. Doubt folks want to pass me in my happy hippie hiking suit. I did a solo awhile back. Covered 115 miles over 12 days. It rained 11 of the 12 and my feet stayed dry. The trail was to the point where it was a small stream with white caps. People were messaging me saying I was nuts. I had to put my gaiters on because the flow as time went on would have overtaken my boots amd flooded me out. I prolly could have used a packraft lol. It was a record rainfall. I have pics of the trail somehwere. If I can stay dry in that scenario in a pair of leathers then why couldnt I on Rainier? Is late June postholing season out that way?
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