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  2. [TR] Big Bear! - Brushtissima 11/11/2019

    Very cool, thanks!! MH
  3. Today
  4. [TR] Big Bear! - Brushtissima 11/11/2019

    damn near centrally located in the darring-town slabbage meca. You can see exfo dome and squire creek wall. and several other slabbages also!
  5. Trip: Big Bear! - Brushtissima Trip Date: 11/11/2019 Trip Report: With all this attention on the NW couloir on Eldorado the past few weeks, Kit and I succeeded on a smash and grab ascent of BIG BEAR! last weekend. He is in the midst of a noble mission to climb all the Cascadian peaks visible from his office in Everett and I'm well, I'm just a bit "special". We happened to catch it in "near perfect" conditions, I am happy to report, and suspect others may be lining up during the next fine weather spell this week. The ankle biting huckleberry have shed their leaves, leaving them only 50% as annoying as they are in high summer. And, most all the snow is gone, meaning one shouldn't worry about tiring themselves out kicking steps up straightforward snow slopes. To top it off, all of the flagging has been eaten by deer, meaning that a "fair means" ascent is nearly guaranteed. Why this brushy beast isn't more popular, I'll never know. Or, maybe it is popular? There is no register so it is tough to figure how many people are as "savvy" as us. All I know is that the 4130 isn't going to get less brushy in the next few years, so if you want either Liberty or BIG BEAR! in the next lifetime or two, you'll want to go now. Just don't expect flagging or the Instagram hordes to show you the way. Gear Notes: eye protection, leather gloves, whiskey. Ice axe, crampons, and helmet some part of the year. Approach Notes: I somehow deleted my GPX track, not that it will help you much. Just look at the image in the TR for an idea of where to go. Just make sure you don't miss the Moffitt Step!
  6. Yesterday
  7. Routes like these aren't consistently in all the time so it makes sense that once it gets reported as "in", the masses will appear! It took me several gos to make it happen over about a decade or so. Good on everyone knocking it off so efficiently!
  8. $125. This jacket has never been worn and is in perfect condition, comes with stuff sack.
  9. for sale RAB Hardshell Jacket/ Pants

    Still available. Taking Offers for the Set. Thanks
  10. for sale FS: Cilogear 60L Worksack

    bump and price drop
  11. Beacon

    11/16 - day 64, laps 148-150 (250% of last year's distinguished take by dog n' a nice round milestone too if the season is to once and finally go south on us with 6 weeks left yet to go in this foul year of our lord, two-thousand-nineteen) - 8 CBI's - woke up with no expectations, the chances of climbing anything seemed sad and so i was satisfied with that, ready for a swim if it came to it - but fog yielded to cloud and sun and with the wulf-man desiring drop-off in camas come noon i figured why not natter off in an eastern direction and suss out the situation - puddles along the proud highway to be sure, but that's not a threat to most and come beacon it was pretty promising - the trail down to the base nice n' slickery yes, and a couple folks on the route too but none of the alarm bells of yesterweek went off and so it was simple enough to don shoes n' get going up, the dread of days gone by gaunt and grey, their perilous powers over me weak n' frail today thank kee-rist - three in total, the sun scampering off the face after two, the third done in the same style as the first of the season, just a man n' a mustache n' all alone - bill coe n' ryan n' a dog n' the olde yuck-yuck before #150, which was a pride n' joy - time enough for a golden sombrero, i set it aside instead for a quick trip to adam n' claire's for a cool blue fire n' a collective calling out of the crimes of guilty man - native american memorabilia fingered n' figured on - indian heaven sheenagins for the heathen summer to come contemplated upon by candle-light - booze and wetsuits seem to be key, but its a comfort to leave a healthy measure of juicy mystery upon the table and so we'll return to this come july - dave arrived just short of departure, diminished by his duties and somewhat dim - the long orbit back, but a delightful gut-full of grilled cheese n' ham n' pickles n' burgundy afterwards to perk us brightly back up n' set our face towards that sullen n' fell-tomorrow which must come shortly...
  12. Last week
  13. W's Patagonia Fitz Roy Parka - Md.

    is this still available?
  14. I agree about the quality. Eric Sweet and I made what I believe to be the second ascent in November 2002, in 'sportier' conditions than currently and it is one of my all time favorite mixed winter alpine climbs. Up there with NE Buttress of J'berg in winter. I have some photos of our ascent on summitpost.org: https://www.summitpost.org/northwest-ice-couloir/688985 for comparison. The cruxes were climbing steep, thin ice past big chockstones. I even belayed in a cave formed by one. We were both climbing on Black Diamond Shrikes and Charlet-Moser S-12s, which did not fit Eric's first gen Scarpa Freneys. He lost a crampon below the the last steep ice pitch below the summit. Rather than surrender the fantastic lead, he climbed the rig with one crampon on the ice, the other boot scumming the rock.
  15. Old Everest Expedition Article

    this is really cool too see amazing pictures too.
  16. [TR] Eldorado Peak - NW Ice Couloir 11/06/2019

    Climbed it last Sunday (11.10), and there were two teams behind us. Another team was rumored to have bailed on the approach; and heading down across the toe of the E Ridge we spoke with a party of two planning to climb the couloir the next day. I was very glad we were first to the route. Indeed there is a lot of shelling from just one’s partner—let alone from multiple teams above—and debris accelerates pretty fast in there! I imagine that the fun cruxes, and easy but quite run-out snice sections would have been less fun to lead while being pelted constantly by the little stuff, and while the bigger stuff hums eerily past your head. We tried to be gentle, but obviously there’s not much to be done. Beautiful climb in an absolutely perfect alpine setting. I feel lucky to have had the chance to climb it, and I’ll definitely join the chorus and say that it’s one of my favorite climbs ever.
  17. [TR] Eldorado Peak - NW Ice Couloir 11/06/2019

    Yeah I feel like every other day the last couple weeks on Instagram or some other social media platform I was running into a post about the route. I suppose @PorterM and I are responsible for that, even though its in Selected Climbs. The most recent reports I found on this route were from the dry 2015 year including yours, @JasonG. The rest were from a decade or more ago on cc.com and old blogs. I hope there wasn't any actual crowding on the route. As there's quite a bit of shit coming down on you while your seconding or belaying. Would hate to be climbing under another party or two.
  18. We found a close-fitting black cap/hat in a gully next to the lower part of Monitor Ridge on 11/13/19. Would be nice to return it to the owner. leora
  19. I love that the cc.com effect is back. Many moons ago it was a common thing to see a crowd the next weekend on whatever had a bunch of online traffic during the week.
  20. [TR] Eldorado Peak - NW Ice Couloir 11/06/2019

    Climbed it yesterday and found slightly different conditions. Due to Tuesdays precip, there was a fair bit of mostly well bonded wind blown snow on the glaciers, this made for slower travel. The route got a lot of wind transfer, and most of the cruiser neve for other folks was deep wallowing and for us. The ice steps were still tons of fun with the occasional spin drift to the face. Dare I say the thing was picked out. I figured instead of writing yet another NW Couloir TR I'd just comment here...
  21. Mt Hood

    Thanks, you have confirmed my suspicions!
  22. I'm not to familiar with Montane as a brand but I've used a Patagonia R1 hoody with a Rab Boreas pullover on top. It seems like it has similar functionality to what you're talking about. When I'm backcountry skiing I run a bit warm with the R1 so if it's above 25 I use some other base layer. I dunno if that helps or not.
  23. I ordered that pile brown bear jacket in the link above, for the heck of it, fit is terrible, sending it back.
  24. Why my interest in pertex pile? I have been out in winter with wet clothes from sweat and rain. And got very cold and even when moving generating body heat, hard to impossible to dry out. Cold even with a synthetic puffy on. It seems the cold and wetness does not leave even with good quality layers, when it sets in. So I bought montane extreme bibs and smock with heavy pile for winter usage, it is heavy and bulky. However with this and a Brooks range bothy bag I figure hypothermia is almost impossible for me in the cascades. That pile really sucks wetness from the body, must experience it to understand. For me I am sweaty when going uphill, even if cold , so I carry the montane over clothes in the pack until needed. However would like to find something a little lighter and hill hiker friendly in weight and bulk. Less in the pack, more on the body. Thinking of all the options of pile and pertex , buffalo stuff, etc. There are endless possible combos.
  25. Mt Hood

    We climbed up the south side and down and around to check out the Elliot Headwall. The N. Side still looks like it needs one more dusting of snow to hold things together and some colder temps.
  26. Beacon

    11/13 - day 63, lap 147 - after-work laps are on the knife's edge of no longer being a thing, the sun just a degree or two above the road once arrived - the drive a conundrum of trying not to get kilt whilst simultaneously going from work to climbing kit at sixty miles per hour, set to burst from the car within twenty seconds of arrival and claim the checkered flag - the roar of the sky edging in side-ways from the east as i gallump down the slippery trail - yesterday was a godsend - nothing but rain and languid meetings all day, excuse enough to settle down and suck at the marrow of life after a straight-fortnight of surrendering to the she-devil that's consumed my senses of late - a spot of sun and wicked winds made the rock frosty but cool - at the shaded base at the proverbial 420 hour, sober by beacon standards and adorned in a motley array of jackets, hats, hoods n' gloves - less than a half hour later at the railing, the billowing sky to the west wondrous to behold and the wind a talking thing, though i don't know for the life of me what it's saying...
  27. Mt Hood

    Has anyone been to the north side in the last few weeks?
  28. current song in your head

  29. current song in your head

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