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  4. Trip: Stuart Range - Enchantment Linkup Uber-Lite Trip Date: 08/16/2019 Trip Report: I Know, It's long. I'm working on trimming it up a little bit. Thursday morning came around and I still hadn't found a partner or a plan for my one day "retail weekend" on Friday. Bummed, I resolved myself to going solo and started making plans to go climb some stuff around the Kangaroo temple area at WA Pass. As they day progressed, the idea of getting off work at 8pm and driving the four hours up to the pass started to seem less appealing. I had remembered reading a FB post of Shane Markus rope soloing Prusik in something like 9 hours C2C and thought that sounded like good fun, though I was looking for a little more adventure. Having already climbed the W-Ridge, I started thinking of other longer routes that I hadn't already done, and Serpentine came to mind. After a little beta gathering, I was sold. Figuring I would only have to pitch out the two crux pitches I made a mental gear list and patiently waited till I got off work After getting off my shift of slinging sleeping bags I rode home, frantically repacked my bag and started the "much shorter than Wa Pass" drive over to L-Town. The next morning since my 92 Honda Accord doesn't seem to like washboard roads, I hitched a ride up to the Stuart Lake TH, and started hiking around 6am. My pack weighed down by a few beers and a left over breakfast smoothie which I promptly stashed in the creek. Feeling spry, I launched up and around the lake. Having neglected to research where the cutoff up the moraine is, I found myself deep in a fistfight with some slide alder. Arriving at the base of the route 2.5 hours from the car I was feeling great! Racking up and repacking I started up the route. Before I knew it I turned the corner to find myself below the crux pitch. "That looked way harder in the pictures" I thought to myself and started padding and jamming my way up the slab cracks. Confident that if anything started to feel hairy I could plug a few pieces and pitch out the rest of the crux. Luckily it only got easier and more secure, and in no time I was well through the crux and weaving my way up the blocky ridge, lungs burning and psyche high. Arriving on the summit 4.5 hours from the car I was ecstatic, soaking up the sun and giving my legs a rest. That's when I started thinking It would be a shame to waste my day off by getting back to the car at 2pm and I might as well tag Prusik while I'm up here. Unfortunately I had only brought enough fig bars for one route... Strapping my girlfriends fancy UL crampons to my approach shoes, and whipping out my axe I scampered down the icy snow behind D-Tail and straight lined it in the direction of Prusik. Next time I'll definitely ditch the snow gear opt for the snowless witches tower roundabout. The jog over to Prusik was beautiful as always with goats and ultra vest clad "runners" keeping me company the whole way. The W-ridge went super fast. I brought the rope up in case I wanted to rap the slab, but never ended up pulling it out. The top chimney is indeed easier to slither down than up, and the slab didn't feel much different either. Getting down to the base I thought to myself that I should go rope solo OS as well, I had the time and the energy to complete the triple linkup. Though looking at my dwindling food supply and my small rope + rack I thought it may be a bit more out there than I wanted, plus the day had already gone so well. Reserving myself to the softie linkup, I started my slog back up to Aasgard pass. The trudge back was pretty average, and my stashed chocolate smoothie was a life saver as my food rations were long gone. Again I got an easy hitch down to my car and feasted on a well earned sausage in town before driving back to Seattle that evening. There is something much less satisfying about a double linkup over a triple. I'll be back for that some time soon. Trailhead to Trailhead time: 12hrs Thanks Croft and Plotz for the inspiration and psyche. Final push up the moraine Looking down the two good pitches Chillin in some poor saps bivy spot Looking over at a very sad Colchuck glacier Time to Summit Pack explosion on the summit, showing the small rack that I didn't ever use. Where I'm going The likely better crampon free descent is visible I didn't get any Pictures from Prusik since my phone was dying, but I got one on my hike back! The worst part of these solo trips is the before and after when you don't have anyone to shoot the shit with. Gear Notes: Not used, but carried: 35M rope, Half rack, self belay device (Grigri), extra tat in place of cordelette, R1, Hudini Used Gear: Helmet, Rock shoes, Chalk bag, Water filter, UL axe and Crampons Approach Notes: Don't cut up the Moraine too early and enjoy the views.
  5. Has anyone done any more work to this route? It looks like a great route, except for the lack of real descent. No descent will keep most people away from this route, and it will quickly grow into obscurity. I wanted to climb it this weekend with my wife, however, the potential of being benighted on the rappel leaves a lot to be desired. What do you think of the below lines for a possible rappel? Blue will take you straight down from the summit and looks like half of the stations could be tree belays, with just a few bolted stations lower down on the blank wall. Would this take you all the way down without any bolted stations? Purple is a cutoff to get back to the route. That would require that the lower route has bolted belay/rappel stations. Yellow would require tree rappels down the ridge (or downclimbing) then bolted stations. It would drop you right back to the base of the climb. Having not been there, looking for some insight before heading up to explore the area and search/build a better descent.
  6. Olympia area partners

    Hello, I just moved from Spain, and I am looking for partners to climb in the Olympia area, I do have experience in alpine up to 5.9 in Spain and trad up to 5.8 in MA, but very few climbs in this area, I can take days off during the week, I would be interested in climbing Mount Rainier too this August, if anyone interested let me know.
  7. chucK has passed away

    Just to clarify -- the Thursday evening event is at Denny Creek campground up by Snoqualmie Pass. It is not in Leavenworth. As far as I know, there is no Leavenworth event planned.
  8. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    well, think again. Just during one crankwoks there were 87 bikes reported as stolen in Whistler. Say average cost would be 2.5k, which gives you $215500. That is one week! There was one bait bike sting, and two guys were caught with almost 50 bikes in rented u-haul right outside of Squamish. Why steal cars, when you can make money easier, when stealing high end mtn bikes. My adise- don't bring your mtn bike to Whistler or Squamish for overnight stay.
  9. Hey Y'all. I don't come by here very often, though I still climb all the time. Just back from 6 days at Squamish. They let me in and out with an expired passport! It was only 10 days expired. No one mentioned it at the border. I took a chance because I went with two of my favorite climbing friends. Here they are, leading Penny Lane. She had never climbed it before, and was basically climbing off the couch. This was recorded on an Iphone XS. I do most of my writing on my wordpress site. Here is a story about my aluminum case I made to carry my Iphone climbing: http://websterart.com/wordpress/2019/07/ultimate-climbing-phone-case/ See you out there!
  10. Trip: Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ Trip Date: 08/15/2019 Trip Report: Got out Friday on this new(ish) Nelson/Whitelaw route; if you're looking for a quick alpine hit you should give it a try. To find the start, go past the SW Face trad route and continue a short distance to a low angle corner with bolts. Easy to find. The route is generously bolted, no need for gear. It's seven 30m pitches -- we combined 6&7 and you could easily combine 3&4 as well, but I think running 1&2 together would give you some unpleasant rope drag. I skipped or unclipped a couple of bolts on P2 and still had a little drag at the end of the pitch. P5 is the crux. Rap the route with a 60 or downclimb the South Face and circle back around for your gear. Fun day out and as I'm told "it's a good training route for anything on Hozomeen." We ran into Jake the Brit as we were downclimbing the South Face, he said I should post a TR and he'd nag Whitelaw for a topo. You really don't need one though, just follow the bolts. Action shot looking down P2: Gear Notes: 13 draws, rope Approach Notes: the usual
  11. I bought 'em from Feathered Friends in 2014 to climb Mt Shuksan (successful), climbed Olympus in 2016 (successful), and hiked part of Mt Adams with grandson in 2017, then tried Mt Baker this past weekend (unsuccessful) because my left foot became so terribly painful that I turned back just before the Roman wall where it gets steep. Left foot has had surgery which has now (apparently) caused the shape/size to change enough that the boot just doesn't fit well - is far too tight, and quite painful after a while. So, they should go to someone who will get good use out of 'em. Original cost was a bit under $600, how about $300, and I ship (CONUS) for that?
  12. Nothing will ever really be solved until the Royal Canadian Kilted Yaksmen are investigating
  13. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    Imagine RCMP Bob, the Royal Canadian Mounted Polack! Striding into town mounted on his beastly steed, dressed in red, mounty hat affixed. Solving the cold case of the Mysterious Missing Bicycle like Sherlock Holmes. Or maybe the RCMP are just like the cops down here, they could give two fucks if someone stole your bike. File a report, and they'll "get right on it". But this cable thing, it is costing real money. And once you pass a certain threshold of money, there is different level of scrutiny. I don't know if they'll solve it or not, but I'm betting they are actually looking at it versus finding whomever stole your bike and pissed your cheerios there you sheep shagger.
  14. Beacon

    8/19 - day 18 - laps 36-40 for the rare Reverse Platinum Sombrero - a near week at the beach w/ the fam - a crossing of quinault and an epic lake crescent thing - barely a week left in summer 2019 i awoke wicked sore but set out east anyways - the stone near alone for the first 4 laps, but then dave n' steve where there n' we cackled our way upwards together alone to mushroom ledge n' some serious meditation
  15. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    Squamish RCMP is a bunch of fucktards. 3 years ago there was a burned van found, with a body in it, and they stated they were investigating that as a crime, but no charges have been filed so far. As the matter of fact, they could not even establish ID of the guy. There are literally hundreds of thousands worth of bikes stolen in Squamish every year. And yet, in last 10 years, there were two prosecutions for bike theft. Yes, that is right- TWO!. So sorry if I am sceptical about whole cable thing,, because looks like to me Squamish RCMP knows two things- jack and shit, and jack left town.
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  17. for sale Phantom 800's and Nepal Evo's size 44

    They are still available. Sorry, for the delay, notification went in my spam box.
  18. It's actually not weird at all Bob. Lemme explain in short words so you can go back to dishing out greasy-handed rub n tugs in peace It's likely that there will be some sort of undercover effort to find the perpetrator. A Mr Big sting (legal in Canada, though not in the US) or similar. At some point the guilty party will tell an undercover cop or informant "Yeah, I cut the cable." "How'd you do it?" "Well, I used a plasma cutter". or "an angle grinder" or whatever. BECAUSE that info hasn't been publicly released or reported, they have higher confidence that the guy is telling them the truth when he tells them how he did it. It's something that only he and they know. That won't work if everybody and his dumbfuck Polish buddy knows how it was done. So that's why they won't publicly say how it happened. Cause they don't want the general public to know.
  19. wanted to buy 4season tent 4 places

    Let me know if you are interested in a MSR StormKing. It's a 5 person.
  20. Yesterday (Sunday Aug 18th) I left my BD Distance Z trekking poles at the Blue Lake TH at WA Pass early afternoon. If anyone came across them please let me know, I'd be thrilled to get them back. Thanks!
  21. North Ridge of Baker

    wow! that top out is really broken up. times are a changin over the eyars.
  22. Exit 38 today?

    Hi all, my afternoon just opened up so I'm stoked to get out for some easy sport climbing at exit 38. I am available 1:30pm and after, have gear and rope, am familiar with the moderate climbs and have guidebook, and am experienced and safe. If you're interested, text me! 206-412-3187. Trang
  23. Trip: Mount Stuart - West Ridge Trip Date: 08/17/2019 Trip Report: A successful climb of the West Ridge of Mount Stuart must start with a shout out to everyone we got beta from ahead of time from the route descriptions, hand drawn topo and photos that helped us navigate the maze of possibilities. We packed fairly light (which still isn’t all that light doing a lot of exposed scrambling and a technical climb as a carryover) starting with packs between 25 and 30 pounds knowing we would be loading up an extra 4L of water each at Ingalls Lake. Car camped at the trailhead on Thursday night and were on the trail just after 6am Fri morning. We first tried to go around the right side of Ingalls Lake but appeared to be cliffed out right near the end. The choices were a chest deep wade around the corner or a slabby move that was a little to uncomfortable looking to start the morning out with. So, we back tracked and walked around the left side of the lake. A quick trip to Ingalls Lake and we filled up all our water bladders and topped off all the bottles. The weather was great, sunny with a nice chill and breeze. Gusting up to 20ish had us wondering about the wind on the route that was predicted to be in the 20s the next day with clouds and a slight chance of precip. We decided it was worth taking the chance and moved on to the base of the climb. Navigating up the gullys was straight forward. Then we got to a choice of going up a low 5th chimney/gully or around to the left. 3 of us soloed up the chimney which only had one burly overhangy move. We dropped down a line for one person to belay them up that move. From here looking over at Long John Tower looked pretty intimidating. We pulled out the photos with the hand drawn route options for the 5th class option or the 4th class option and neither looked appealing. We heard enough about the 5th class option being very awkward that we decided to scramble up the 4th class. We picked out our route from a distance and headed that way. Fairly quickly after the 3rd class approach it gets your attention. We all headed up a long straight narrow gulley feature on the right, but we didn’t know if it would connect back over left at the top. Two of us about halfway up found what we figured was the “exposed airy traverse” and yea, its exposed and airy but the finger crack and foot holds were solid. From there we could see that the gulley the others were still in had a walk across to where we were. Kashan continued to the top and set an anchor and dropped a line to belay up Rodica the last half since it was getting very steep and exposed with some burly moves and high steps. A short 3rd class scramble from there and we were over the hump and past Long John Tower looking across at the rest of the terrain we had to cross to get to the West Ridge Notch. It was about 3:30pm and we were about 9 hours into the trip. We figured we had plenty of time to continue on and find the bivvy sites closer to the West Ridge Notch. We easily found the Dog move and got around the overhanging ledge and into the next gully. Eventually we were spending some time consulting the GPS tracks, printed beta and a hand drawn topo map trying to figure out which ledge, which sandy patch, which gully, which hash tag on the map was which. We had tracks that seemed to go up to a higher route and tracks dropping hundreds of feet and going around a buttress lower. After a bit we then spotted a line of cairns that went straight across splitting the difference and decided to take that path. That route seemed to be not as travelled since we were on some fairly lichen covered rocks at times making our way from cairn to cairn and it was some very exposed 4th class scrambling in some sections but fairly easy with big holds and wide enough ledges. We wound up skipping the entire upper route and the features such as the Tunnel underfoot, the rock you climb through, the upper bivvy sites (which we wanted to hit) but it also meant we didn’t have to descent hundreds of feet down a crappy loose gulley then ascend the next crappy loose gulley. Once across we had a straight shot up to the West Ridge Notch. The whole section from LJT to the West Ridge Notch took about 3 hours. Now it was 6:30pm and we needed to find the bivvy spots. Since were at the base of the climb little did we know if we scrambled up a little bit from the notch we would have found a site we probably could have squeezed all 4 of us on, but it would have been very windy and maybe a little too cozy. We dropped back down the gully maybe 200ft and around the tower with the balanced rock, up just a little bit to the notch and found a line of bivvy sites right around 9000ft and hunkered down for the night with an awesome sunset. Up the next morning at 6am to blue sky and not a lick of wind we lucked out on the weather forecast and we were back on our way to the Notch at 7am. We started the climbing around 8am after scrambling up to the base of the first pitch and finding the spot where we needed to traverse out then back up around the spire at the base. Since there is a bit of a downclimb from there we setup belays at the top to reduce rope drag then scrambled down to the base of the 2nd pitch. From the base of the 2nd pitch Rodica led off and went straight up the right-hand side which had a burly overhangy move at the top while Andy went up the left-hand side and everyone grouped up on the ledge. From there we had to look around for where to go next. It looked like there was some worn down surface on the right-hand side where it was a slabby move with a wide crack up against a wall. There is a nice pinch point for a sling and a bomber anchor to make the committing move up. And that turned out to be the spot that put us right at the next downclimb to another bivvy spot and belay for the next pitch. From the base of the 3rd pitch we had a nice photo from beta we got from some friends that showed we needed to do a zig zag move going straight up, over a large block then right then up another section to the next belay ledge. This was some bad rope drag, so splitting this pitch into 2 would have been preferable which is what Andy and Khrum did. From the base of the 4th pitch we had all grouped up and after consulting the beta decided the route was to go up little bit then traverse around the base of a large square spire (which I think is also the move referred to as the “belly flop”) which wasn’t hard, just a bit awkward. From there it was easy scrambling up and to the right around a corner to the crux section which has a fixed piton at the burly overhangy move, preceded by another burly pullup/mantle move onto a nice flat alcove where you can reach up and clip the piton. Its easy once past that move to a nice belay ledge. We stopped here as it was a good spot to haul up someone’s pack if they wanted to make the burly move at the piton easier. From there the next pitch was just an easy scramble to the summit block where we ran into groups all coming up from every direction. All in all it took about 5 hours for the four of us to do the climb from the West Ridge Notch to the summit where we topped out around 1pm-ish. Then it came time for the long 6000ft descent (~4500ft down to the creek, another ~1300ft up to Longs Pass, then ~1500ft down to the trailhead). We took some time to soak our feet and refill some water in the creek. The 4L each we filled up at Ingalls Lake got us all the way down to the creek the next day without running short. 3L probably would have worked but we would have had to melt some snow field after the summit. And if it had been a really hot and sweaty 2-days 4L might not have been enough. We found 1 tiny remnant of snow on the route that was literally 2ft by 6inches and was probably already melted by the next day. This is a climb you really need to have some experience and comfort with exposed scrambling and be prepared with route beta and take your time to get your route right. It would be pretty easy to get off route just winging it and getting into terrain you might not be ready for. And we already know someone who spent 2-days off route on the West Ridge getting into 5.9 territory they weren’t prepared for. Got back to the cars about 12hrs after having left the bivvy site. Turned out that was a great split for the 2-day carryover trip. About 12hrs each day using the 9000ft bivvy sites. Gear Notes: Light alpine rack (.3 to #2, nuts), 40m rope, 4L water each Approach Notes: Nothing new I could add to the normal approach beta other than there are no water sources after Ingalls Lake till the descent from the summit.
  24. chucK has passed away

    I first met Chuck in 2001 in the Blue Lake parking lot, waiting out a rainstorm. We didn't do a lot of trips together, but the ones we did were good ones. Here he is on the North Ridge of Sherpa in July (Ken Ford photo), leading what we thought was the crux. He was a great guy; so sad that he's gone.
  25. North Ridge of Baker

    On reviewing my photos from Skyline Divide yesterday, a party of two climbed it yesterday. The climbers are visible in the photo below as a dark dot above the NR cliff. If you were in that team of two, please get in touch for a few more photos: charlie@charliehagedorn.com
  26. North Ridge of Baker

    from 8/15 so not that long ago but things do change quickly. One thing to note that may not be in the below report as it is expected that most guides know this already as it a situation that has been around for a month or so now. There is a large crevasse running end to end (may be the 8800 crack in report below) on the coleman glacier which would be your decent route. Wont see it on the way up. End running it to the east or west will put you into potential ice fall danger from baker or colfax. either run quickly through there or some have been rappeling off of some fixed pickets. No idea if that is still accurate. Should be exciting! Hey Crew, Just wrapped up a 1:1 summit day on a 3 day North Ridge with Mountain Madness. We are camped at the hogsback and figured I'd spend some tent time sharing conditions. The slope immediately above the hogsback is now a combination of recently glaciated terrain and dry glacier, making travel in the dark slow. We took the standard ascent to the football field that you would for the CD, thinking that this would help us avoid some shenanigans on the low traverse but in retrospect, I don't believe we gained any time by doing so. On the descent we went hard skiers left and managed to stay on a combination of snow and dry glacier with only a few short sections of loose 3rd to link everything together. The 6600 traverse is holding strong but Jeff's words from late July are certainly still true. There are several spots that require exposed movement on dry glacial fins that are a little sporty. I personaly wouldn't want to be in there with a guest that's not solid on their feet right now. Running water is available in one spot early on, moving across the Coleman but I did not encounter any after that. Once on the route, a friendly boot pack allowed for short roping almost all the way to the ice step, requiring just one short pitch to the the right side of the nose. The exit straight up is still holding strong, above which there was a track heading to a bridge that is about to collapse. We managed to gain the summit plateau a few hundred feet climbers left of this bridge but you will likely need to end run the whole crack within the next week or two. The 8800 crack has a super solid rap anchor above it and a 60 left us ample rope to spare. There is also enough room to comfortably stage pre rigged guest between the anchor and the lip. Thanks to whoever put that in! Colfax has been shedding nicely, I'm attaching a photo. We opted to move through the debris and it took about 5 minutes total with a strong guest. The firn line is creeping up fast and starting to expose some of the slope above the football field. Ignore the straight line at the beginning of my track, my phone was still in battery saver mode. Let me know if you have questions.
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