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  1. Today
  2. Trip: Dragontail Peak - Dragons of Eden Trip Date: 07/19/2019 Trip Report: Sean and I have been having too much success lately. So we decided to step it up a little bit and give DOE a go yesterday. We promptly got our asses handed to us, but made it up in reasonable time. Taking our time on the approach due to a nice morning rain, we made it to the base in 3ish hours. I will say that this route has one of the shortest approaches in the range. The first pitch is properly dirty and harder than it looks. Looks like 5.8, feels like 10- dirty. The second pitch is so sweet! but like the rest of the route, needs some more traffic to make it even more enjoyable. There is a guillotine flake at the start that looks bad, but is solid, this is kind of a theme of the route. I linked this into the 5.9 pitch and belayed from below the crux on a big fat ledge. Sean coming up to the pitch 2 belay in the sun! This wall is COLD and doesn't get any real sun until late in the day. This was the only sun we got all day. From there we rested up and Sean gave the crux a solid effort, no send but that pitch is really fun and you're more likely to hit the pedestal as the follower unless your belayer isn't paying attention. Looking up at me on the headwall. The whole headwall seems to be comprised of scary hollow sounding tombstone flakes. They are solid for now, but it still made it feel pretty heads up for me. The position is all time exposed if you build a belay in the middle of the pitch, which is what we did. The second headwall pitch is hard and scruffy. Still a little crumbly, but takes great gear. I can't believe that Jens onsighted that pitch before it was properly cleaned, so awesome! Sean trying to untie his knot. Psyched on life and ready to start the scramble up to the summit. Can you spot Sean in his granite colored jacket? We soloed the NE buttress until this spot. I had read in Steph's TR about how loose the notch was, It is indeed absolutely horrible. The first hold that Sean grabbed in the gulley proper tore loose and triggered a big slide below him. To get around it he went up and right, then down-climbed to the rap station. We flicked the rope down and I TR'd directly up the notch. I can't stress how gross the rock is, but I guess it could be worse. We brought a tagline to bail and haul a pack. This allowed us to make one full 60m rap down the other side. Still more loose rock but a pretty straightforward rappel. From where the route drops you, you don't need snow gear to get down. Some fun scree and snow skiing took us down to Aasgard and the usual jarring hike down the pass brought us back to our packs. Overall it's a great route! Too hard for me to give a good RP attempt from the car right now, but I now have something to train for. Like others have said, with some more traffic this route would clean up well! I even think the average 10+ climber with some alpine aiders and a slightly bigger rack could have fun on it. Next time I come back I will probably rap the route. It was cool for both of us to top out since it was our first route on D-tail, but the NE-Butt is mostly just exposed loose walking and not a good route. Gear Notes: Doubles .3-3 and Triples .4-1 12 alpine draws Small set of nuts 60m 6mm Tagline Approach Notes: Around the lake and up to the base of the waterfall, then right over the waterfall and up some loose 4th class to the base. If you're gonna leave gear at the base, hide it under a boulder before you cross the waterfall.
  3. Yesterday
  4. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    I dont think HMG packs are all that expensive when compared to say a CiloGear pack. I had a McHale years back that was a bit pricey. ...but it was a custom so.
  5. I just finished AAI's Alpinism 1 & 2 and I have about a week left in Washington before I need to leave. I would love to get back into the hills and gain more experience while I'm here. I'm mostly interested in moderate glacier climbs like the Easton on Baker, Sulphide on Shuksan, Eldorado, Sahale, Glacier Peak, etc. Please reach out if you're interested!
  6. sold! MSR Simmerlite stove, bottles & MSR 1.3L pot

    Nice stove. I love mine and its been great for many years and many adventures. Sadly MSR quit making them a bit back. If you havent sold it and get no hits here there are collectors out there that would jump all over it.
  7. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Will definitely put it on my radar. Thank you.
  8. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Black Diamond Mission 75. Relatively inexpensive, just works. Not the fanciest, but perfectly functional. Has a side access zipper if you don't like tube-only access in the big sizes.
  9. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    I love the desk jockey reference lol. I was a steel erector by trade. Walked beams blah blah blah. Im well versed in wet weather travel on foot(the Loco Raindrops tag was well earned lol.) My buddies always say I must be on trail because its raining. I did a 115 mile solo a bit back and it poured for 11 of the 12 days I was on trail. Was a record rainfall. Not once did anything in my pack get wet. This was the trail:
  10. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    I really appreciate all of your feedback tremendously. Thank you. I have a bunch of packs. Everything from 26L to my Osprey Argon 110 I dubbed big blue. I havent decided on what seminar but Im going to do a run up Rainier with RMI in 2020. Just waiting on dates to be released in September. I would definitely go with the Mutant but Im not sure how stringent they are on the 70L pack req so I figured I would get the Aether Pro or HMG and save some weight over what I currently own. I think the Osprey would offer me a little more flexibility to be used on varying endeavors and not just above treeline. I like the HMG but the problem is I cant put one in my hands and try it out. Im familiar with cuben/sail cloth. Had a tent made of it. I sold it and stuck with my Soulo or Tarra. Anywho, I do appreciate your responses a lot. I climbed many years ago when I was a pup. Few climbers in my family and many hippie hikers lol. I do have larger endeavors I want to take on such as Denali and a few others. So I think 70L is a happy medium. I can always dial the pack down for smaller hauls with the compression straps. The Aether Pro isnt as robust as say my Xenith from a material perspective but it doesnt seem like a pack I would have to handle with kid gloves. I do like the flexibility of being able to remove the hipbelt pockets as well as the flap that takes the place of the top lid when removed. If any of you have any recommendations that I may not be aware of please fire away. Im not rich but I learned long ago buy once cry once so I will spend for a quality product. Heck, Ive had my Danners for over 20yrs now and will be heading for their 4th resole soon. I have a Dana Designs pack that has some mileage on it as well. I should have a fire sale lol.
  11. Last week
  12. Fly Boys Route -Goat Wall - Mazama

    Don't rappel down. Good lord, don't rappel...
  13. I have a Bomb Shelter - used on one Denali trip and on a couple local ones. I managed to put a boot through the rear vestibule but repaired it correctly. That said, I feel like I should lower the price below where it ought to be - $400 seems fair. This is one of the definitive expedition tents at a great price. The other is an I-tent. Perfect condition as in no repairs, etc. $350 seems fair. Buyer pays shipping from Bozeman although I travel a bit so could arrange something. If you want more info or photos I prefer you to use: jdj at montana dot edu thanks
  14. Coming from you, that gives me some pause. I guess too soon to jest about the end of Fred's monopoly on ascents and beta?
  15. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Personal preference is king. I haven't tried them so I shouldn't be too down on it. I just put everything in one of those NZ pack liners that can double as an emergency bivy bag.
  16. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    If you're a desk jockey with too much time to "research" the latest and greatest, they can be appealing. I have a the 40l HMG Icepack I found on Craigslist a few months ago and paid about 50% of the new price. I generally leave the brain off my other packs anyway in favor of stuff sacks inside the pack and a hip pocket for readily accessed small items. The HMG pack does carry better than my other packs in the 40-60l size but, as the OP suspects, it's pretty sweaty and warm on your back. It is pretty much waterproof, which has been nice for SAR missions in the rain.
  17. [TR] Alaska - West Ridge of Mt. Hunter (Begguya) 06/07/2019

    Sounds like adventure! Glad you all were able to summit and dodge some serious bullets. Learn from those experiences.
  18. Climbing near Taxco

    Yeah I visited there a few years ago and was wondering the same, looks like it could be good and the town is nice too.. I didnt see any climbing activity going on but I'm sure there are some routes
  19. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    Also check out the BD Speed 50 and Mission 55. I don't get skipping the top pocket, nor those ridiculous fabrics that don't last. If you must have a monster pack, I'd look closely at the Gregory Denali 75. I've been using an older version for 10+ years on week long trips and it is great.
  20. question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro

    NWD - the material used in HMG, is not abrasion resistant, so don't expect the pack to last long if you climb with it. The material was developed for sailboat sails, not for dragging up coarse alpine rock. Also, it is really expensive! I agree with Darin, if Osprey packs work for you, stick with them. The Osprey Mutant 52 looks like a decent alpine pack. The right size, not too much crap on it, a nice big top pocket, and only $200, which I am sure you can find on sale somewhere on the web. Water resistance in a pack has never been an issue for me, ever. If that is a concern, line your pack with a garbage bag and put everything inside the bag and roll it closed.
  21. They are still available. Shoot me a PM if you want to buy.
  22. Thanks @curtveld, glad you enjoyed it! And yes, you nailed the approach beta from the trail- I could have been more specific about where to turn off. Post up a TR of your own if you have the time! I should add that in my correspondence with the Skagit Oracle (John Roper) he was of the opinion that nobody had climbed the rib before last summer. Not that our ascent was a huge deal, just passing it along that I did check with him. Fred, of course, is silent on the matter- both in word and print.
  23. A change in my medical condition, weather and a cancellation of a winter adventure I had planned is causing me to sell this bag. Purchased this the bag year 2018. Bag is new, no smell, tears, delaminating or abrasion wear. The bag has NEVER BEEN USED and stored in a Western Mounteering cotton storage bag in a closet for almost a year. FEATURES: Size 6’ 0” Right Zip 850 Plus Fill Power Goose Down Fill Weight 32 oz plus 4 oz OVER FILL 8.5” Loft, -100F Insulated Hood & Down Collar MicroLite XP™Fabric Cotton Storage Bag & Stuff Bag Measured Total Weight 53.4oz/3.3lb Purchased Price $815 Will throw in a Sea to Summit eVENT XL/30L COMPRESSION DRY SACK ($49.95 ) >>>>>YOURS for $575.00 ……. FREE shipping<<<<< I accept PayPal as payment. I prefer Friends and Family, OR add 4%, that is fine too. Price includes standard USPS shipping in CONUS only. For communications ONLY THROUGH my email: kenlarson40 at chartermi dot net
  24. Thanks Toast! Bookmarked it! Cheers!
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