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  2. Great line. Would you say that line would be good to go most of the summer or is the snow needed?
  3. [TR] Mt. Hood - Infinity Loop 06/21/2019

    Thanks for the report. Amazing climbing/running. I'm just getting into mountain running and really enjoying it.
  4. Today
  5. Trip: Royally Smooting - North Ridge of Clark, Deception, from Royal Basin Trip Date: 06/15/2019 Trip Report: Who else out there is working through the Smoot book? C'mon, it's OK to admit it, Jeff came up with a great list of peaks that will get you to the corners of the Cacades and the Olympics. Take Royal Basin, for example. I wouldn't have thought of dealing with the hassle of ferries, permits, and bear cans if it weren't for that long out of print tome. And, I would have missed out on a great adventure with @ZakG. I'm continually reminded that there is a lot to recommend in that book. If you do go Royally Smooting though, you may not want to haul all the gear necessary to climb the North Ridge of Clark (as recommended by Smoot). While supposedly the "best" climb in the Needles, Zak and I thought that it wasn't THAT classic. The regular scramble route is interesting enough and easily passable with no rope, harness, or pro. On Deception, you'll want enough snow to cover the amazing amount of loose rock that this peak is known for. Shoot for when Royal Lake is snow free but the upper basin is still snowed in....like we did. It was just about as good of conditions as you could ask for. Gear Notes: Light 40m rope, small rack of nuts and tri cams, helmet, crampons, ice axe. Approach Notes: Royal Basin, the permit is key. Go early in the season before they allow for advance reservations. We had no problems securing one, although we started on a Thursday and finished on a Saturday.
  6. Yesterday
  7. 1922 Film: 1st Winter Ascent of Mt Rainier

    Doesn't seem like I'm able to edit my original post here, so I'm adding a note with the revised location of the films mentioned above. The 1922 Mt Rainier winter ascent film can be found here (on my website): http://alpenglow.org/mountaineers-history/notes/movie/perryman-mt-rainier.html The Perryman newsreel collection can be browsed here (on the Mountaineer Archives wiki): https://mountaineers.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/ARCH/pages/525057/MTR.2011.2+Mountaineers+Film+Collection+Charles+Perryman+Newsreels I'm currently writing about this stuff for my long-delayed ski history book, so it's back on my radar for the moment.
  8. Trip: Mt Hood - Cathedral Ridge (via bike approach) Trip Date: 06/22/2019 Trip Report: Ever since I encountered this excellent-looking bike ride on the interwebs, I've been scheming to combo it with a climb of Hood. http://bestrides.org/lolo-pass-back-road/ I left the town of Zigzag (at a painfully low 1500 ft elevation) on my bike at 4:30am, and began the ascent up to the trailhead via FR 1828. The pitch was quite reasonable, I was worried about the bike ride with all my gear, but after popping it in my lowest gear I was able to putter up without too much effort. I reached the trailhead around 6am and began the hike up Timberline trail. Pretty fantastic misty-light-through-trees action on the way up. I downloaded a trip report of Cathedral Ridge onto my phone, but hadn't started reading it until I got up to McNeil shelter. The TR made it seem quite convoluted and exciting, which gave me a bit of pause since I was just going up solo in my approach shoes. The route turned out to be quite straightforward though. Between 7400 and 8800 it stays more climber's left of the ridge, and ducks right of the ridge around a big cliffband at 9200. At least the way I did it. I took crampons on & off a few times when nice snow slopes appeared, but I encountered nothing steeper than 40 degrees. And it probably goes without saying, but the rock was pretty shitty and loose. I summitted around 11am, and saw my first humans of the day. Largely uneventful on the descent, other than a few exhilarating glissade runs. The road surface on FR 1828 was a bit iffy, so I instead descended East Lolo Pass Rd, which just consisted of open straightaways at relatively mellow grades. I was really psyched on this trip! Really cool part of the mountain, although this was my first time up Hood so I can't really compare. Route: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, bike Approach Notes: Zigzag --> Timberline trail
  9. [TR] Mt. Hood - Infinity Loop 06/21/2019

    This is fantastic—nice work!
  10. Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face Trip Date: 06/23/2019 Trip Report: Some people use the solstice for really long days from sunrise to sunset, getting in as much adventure as possible. We used it to sleep in and still get in a full day of awesome climbing. Leaving the trailhead at 9am we made quick work of the hike up to the lake. From there it was uncharted terrain for the both of us. The climbers trail was way easier to follow than we expected, very well cairned and worn down. The wall looking very very good Two guys crushing Let it Burn. They looked very cool from our route. Such a cool looking route! The corner had one serious wet patch that thwarted my OS. Not bad at all though. I got very cold at the belay under the corner, making for some numb tips on the traverse. Sean about to onsight the freaking crux! Unfortunately I got no photos of the chimney. I thought it was fun. Sean did not. The descent to the base was pretty cruiser. About 50/50 kitty litter to snow. A fall on the snow could be pretty bad if you don't stop but definitely not worth bringing an axe on route, just be careful. There are currently no bugs at the base or on route. Overall the route is in great condition. Only one small wet patch up near the top of P4 and the only fixed gear is the nuts and pins at the top of P4. I cleaned a fixed nut out of the crux thinking my partner had placed it. It came out very easily. Our time came in around 11.5 hours C2C giving us enough time to go get some dinner in town. Gear Notes: Double rack .1-2 single 3&4. A bunch of slings and a single rack of nuts, mostly small. There is no longer a fixed piece at the crux. Sorry. Approach Notes: All snow free and in good condition.
  11. Last week
  12. [TR] Mt. Hood - Infinity Loop 06/21/2019

    That is impressive, no matter the time!
  13. Trip: Mt. Hood - Infinity Loop Trip Date: 06/21/2019 Trip Report: After a hard day and a half in the mountains, I'm stoked to report the Mt. Hood infinity loop goes! The past few weeks I was busy with graduation stuff and couldn't get on the mountain. Finally, on the 20th, the weather looked alright and I decided to head up to attempt the loop. My plan was to climb up Cooper Spur, run half of the Timberline trail, climb Cooper Spur again, and then run the other half of the Timberline trail. Knowing how much gear I needed, I cached some food, water, and clothes by Timberline Lodge before I started up. The rest of the supplies I would hike up with and stash at Cloud Cap Campground. At around 4 or so I arrived at the trail head to go to Cloud Cap Campground. The gate was still closed so I hiked up the trail to camp in about an hour and half. The weather was pretty nice despite some wind and clouds surrounding the summit of the mountain. I was all alone at camp which is always welcome. After eating some dehydrated pad thai, I was asleep before the sun set. The beautiful approach hike 4 am rolls around and my alarm goes off. I throw some food in my small pack and head up trail. Everything is going pretty good until I start the switchbacking up to the route. Visibility could have been better, the wind was howling, and I was pretty cold. The tee shirt plus R1 was probably not the best clothing choice for the conditions that day. When I got to tie in rock, I hid behind it and warmed up for a few minutes. Having never been on Cooper Spur before, I was surprised at the type of climbing. The first few thousand feet were basically a moderately steep snow slope, however, the last 600 or so involved thin ice climbing, mixed moves, and lots of exposed rock. I was glad I decided to bring 2 tools. After about 3 and a half hours I was on the summit. There still wasn't any visibility but the wind was gone. I cruised down the old chute and was at Timberline by the early afternoon. Part of the trail up Summit selfie When I got to my cache, I put on running shorts, ditched the boots, crampons, and stocked up on more GU and water. I decided to take the west side of the Timberline Trail first, the west side was longer and would provide less down time before the second summit. The first few miles of the trail were pretty snowy but after Paradise Park it was largely dry. It was pretty wet and fog obscured any scenic view. I think I made it to camp around 7 pm that night, the first climb slowed down my pace on the trail significantly. At camp, I was no longer alone. Apparently the gate opened that day! I was stoked because I could hitch a ride down after my trip instead of hiking back out. After eating some apples and changing into climbing stuff again, I was off on the second lap. This time conditions were absolutely perfect. Clear skies and no wind allowed me to enjoy the stars and see the lights of the city. That view will never get old. This time it took me about 6 hours to reach the summit. I took liberal breaks because I didn't want to be tired for the mixed section. At 2:30, I was on the summit for the second time in 24 hours. It was quiet, clear, and very enjoyable. This time, the descent was harder. The hard snow put a number on my knees during the descent. At this point, the lack of sleep was catching up to me. Cool rock I saw The stunning, but haunted Ramona Falls Creek crossing with huge carin Enjoying better conditions later in the day When I made it back down to Timberline, I had 16 more miles to go. My legs felt surprisingly fresh when I headed out. The first 6 miles or so were cruiser, however, intermittent snow slowed me down on the last little bit. I made it back to the parking lot after 32 hours, 28 minutes, and 8 seconds. This trip was one of my favorites in recent memory. I hope the infinity loop catches on on Mt. Hood. I would love to see some hardmen knock down the time. In total it was 56.65 miles and 20,445 feet of elevation gain. Get after it Gear Notes: Tee shirt and R1 Approach Notes: Road to Cloud Cap is now open
  14. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 06/15/2019

    We bailed doing it the same day. I wasn't able to convince my partners. There is a good and cheap beer in the area though
  15. Exit 32/38/Index weekday cragging

    Looking for a partner(s) to go climbing after work or super early before work on weekdays: - sport climbing at Exit 32/38 grades 5.10-11s. Bonus if you climb 5.12s. - trad climbing at Index grades 5.9-5.10s. Bonus if you climb 5.11s.
  16. Newsflash: it rains in the PNW. You can mope about it or just go anyway. But where to go? Good knowledge of the local crags can be the key to finding dry rock. With that in mind, I thought I'd start a thread so people with knowledge of the wet/dry patterns of local routes can help create a resource that will be useful for both local and visiting climbers. Here's a start: Concept: there's a difference between routes that are wet from seepage and routes that are wet from rain. When the ground is saturated after a wet winter or spring, it can be a while before routes subject to seepage become dry enough to climb. On the flip side, a day or two of rain after a prolonged dry spell in the summer is unlikely to lead to seepage. Concept: water evaporates faster at warmer temperatures. Consequently, one sunny day can dry a lot more crags in the summer than in the winter. Concept: wind can be an issue for some areas. If the wind is out of the East on the I90 corridor, Winter Block, Headlight Point, and the higher parts of Shangri La can be unbearably windy due to a valley constriction between McClellan's Butte and the X38 Far Side buttresses. East winds above 10 MPH can be a show stopper. If you didn't look at the forecast, look at the tree tops as you cross the Far Side bridge. If they're rocking choose another crag. Some observations (feel free to correct and/or add your own) Index - On David Holland / Lovin Arms, the first 5.9 pitch can be wet when the rest of the climb above is dry. Hopefully others with more experience can give a more nuanced analysis of the many crags and routes at Index. X32 - Blackstone wall gets wet at the top and can seep in places, but the rock is high friction and can generally be climbed even when it is damp. WW1 stays mostly dry in most conditions. Seepage can affect routes in the winter. Erie - Climbs with southern exposure dry quickly, and this area is in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, so this can be a good choice when other areas are wet. Crags under deep cover, such as the one at Rosario, are more subject to seepage and humidity. Mazama and Vantage - Can be sunny and nice in the spring when the West side is wet and nasty. In summer they can be hot. X38 - Here is a more detailed breakdown as that's the area I know best. Amazonia is quite protected and will generally stay dry in light rain from about June to October. In spring and winter, seepage from saturated ground above the cliff will make a number of routes wet. If you go on a sunny day in winter you're likely to find this cliff still quite wet. Nevermind is also protected and stays dry in a light rain. Like Amazonia, it is subject to seepage from above, but fewer routes are affected. Bob's Wall and Valley View West dry pretty quickly. The Actual Cave is subject to seepage. The routes right of it are often wet until mid-summer. The Trestle and deception areas of X38 can be slick when damp and can get wet quickly. Seepage can be an issue. Routes with sun exposure, which changes by season, can dry quickly. There are so many routes along this stretch that unless it's actively raining or has rained continuously for days you should be able to find something to climb. Neverland routes vary in how quickly they dry. Seepage is an issue for the lower crags. Gun Show is only modestly affected by seepage and dries pretty quickly. It also gets wet quickly when it rains because it is not protected. Endless Bliss may have a wet patch around the first bolt even when the rest of the route is dry. Trucktown cave stays dry most of the time. Eastern Block and Headlight Point are East-facing and dry pretty quickly after it rains. There are a few routes where seepage is an issue, but the rock is high friction and can be climbed when it is damp. The first 20 feet of Displacement can look quite wet, but the holds you need are generally fine and the upper part of the route is generally dry unless everything is wet. Mirror wall is protected from light rain. It is only modestly affected by seepage. Most of Shangri-La stays pretty dry in light rain. Seepage is less of an issue here than at many other crags. Winter Block generally dries quickly because of its exposure to wind and sun. Hopefully others can add more. Cheers, Rad
  17. A climbing buddy is offering a $100 reward for anyone who finds the runaway Salomon ski that got away from him on the summit of Mt. St. Helens this winter. Last seen heading straight down the ravine below Dryer glacier, going about 20 mph. He went looking for it a couple days ago and didn't find it. Coordinates are: 46.185, -122.195. leora
  18. No problem. Happy to help. I think we nailed the season. The snow was stable and firm, the guide companies had been sending clients up on most peaks already, and the weather was great—dry pretty much the whole time. Three weeks actually bordered on too much for us. After two weeks, we'd climbed everything on our initial three-week itinerary and we even considered flying home early or heading to another destination, but decided to just do one more peak. This was partly due to weather, conditions, and logistics all working out really well for us. My three-week trip to Patagonia felt too short due to difficult weather. Two-and-a-half weeks in Peru was also bordering on too short, given getting sick there. So three weeks is a good duration if you can swing it to buffer for the unexpected. We left Bolivia feeling like there wasn't much unfinished business. Other options for us were the West Face of Huayna Potosi and the Grand Traverse of Illimani. We would have done the latter if we'd been a bit more healthy and confident at the end of the trip. We considered Chachacomani, but it didn't sound terribly interesting. Ancohuma was a similar story. Sajama didn't sound interesting to us at all. I think Peru might have an edge if you're choosing between the two for a first trip: Huaraz is more of a mountain town with a scene focused on climbing, there are more route and peak options, and the climbing can be more technical (but there are easier options as well). La Paz is a big city and the peaks are generally less technical. Transportation is similar. Some approaches in Peru are bigger and make more sense to do with support (donkey drivers, etc.), which is an interesting experience. We did like the faster and lighter approach in Bolivia having experienced both, though. It's pretty cheap in both countries once you're there. I believe Bolivia has the edge on cheapness. We didn't hire a guide in either place, but we heard that Peru has "European rates" while Bolivia was surprisingly cheap for guides, porters, donkey drivers, and cooks from what we heard. Hotels were easily bookable online for both places in advance and costs were pretty reasonable. Bolivia was downright cheap. We found it was worth spending a bit more in Huaraz—our first hotel smelled like sewage and had a lot of street noise. Basic supplies where cheap in both places. For example, we bought standard butane fuel for our stove at 20 Bolivianos per canister in La Paz ($2.90). There are normal grocery stores in La Paz with staples. Huaraz had some smaller ones and you could buy things like oats, dried fruit, salami, etc. in the markets. Taxis worked in both places and were pretty reasonable (3-hour drive from Illimani was 450 Bolivianos / $65) and some transportation made sense to do in Collectivos in both places, which are dirt cheap. Looking forward to hearing about your adventure down there. - Jeff
  19. current song in your head

  20. [TR] Quartz Mountain - Training Day 07/14/2018

    Got all thirteen pitches in last Sunday with Russel Cunningham, and had an absolute blast. first things first, I lost my keys out there, i just went up to the base of the climb yesterday to look for them, no dice. My best guess is that they are near the top of pitch 9 as we took a little nap in the trees there. If anyone goes up in the next couple weeks please give a quick look around as its my only reliable truck key. Next, great route. p1-7 Apart from the first feature off the ground (I went to the far right under the roof then right,) which doesn't protect well, i find this to be great climbing which i would recommend to anyone, the climbing is clean and the route is easy to find. I've climber up to the top of seven twice now, the first time i didn't pay attention to the "yard on cedars" beta, and went far right on the upper face to a feature that climbs back right to the anchor. It was scary but really good climbing. This time I "yarded on cedars" and thought that was unnecessary, I had Russel just climb five feet to the right of the trees on top rope and it definitely went too. Thus I would be willing to go up there with some one with the knowhow and see if we can't put a couple bolts in the greatly improve that section of the climb. p8 is fine, bolts are a little hidden at the top, commit and you'll find them p9 - pretty rambling - look for my keys. p10 was my favorite pitch. interesting enough climbing and finally a lot of exposure p11 i was not too fond of, slippery dirty scrubby, I was pretty that i was belaying from the wrong tree, as it turn out i wasn't, to stay on track just follow the border of the Forrest and the slab, and you'll get there. 12 and 13 went well and rapping was very straight forward. I agree that the rap line looks like a brilliant climb, until you get to the second to last rap and steepness really picks up. I went up yesterday on my key recon and got a few pictures of it. Maybe there is an option to the far right, but it doesn't take a lot of climbing at the fee demo wall to realize that 5.9 and 5.12 really look a lot alike. Never the less it could be worth poking around . Also, it looks like there could be a scrubby crappy bushy route to the far left of the rap line, but i'm not sure that would be worth it.
  21. im looking for a team on Rainier July 19,20,21 from MN in good physical condition with previous glacier climbs (Baker, Glacier Peak)
  22. Suggestions on where to live

    I would love to live out that way. But.... Plus Im too old and cranky to share a spot plus I have a wife so lol. Definitely a bit more costly out that way tho.
  23. Looking for rock climbing and mountaineering partners. I lead 5.10 trad, 5.11 sport, follow up to WI4+, certified as a Wilderness First Responder. I've been rock climbing for 6+ years and am in uphill shape. Little experience on steep snow and glaciers, but I want to learn. If you're keen to teach, let's link up for mountaineering objectives. I'm confident on rock and am excited to get on some longer multipitch lines. I'm bike touring through the PNW and carrying only personal rock/mountaineering gear.
  24. Thanks for the info! I have a few more questions: Did you feel like you scheduled your trip for the optimal time? In retrospect would you have planned an earlier or later trip in the season? Did three weeks feel rushed for acclimatization, travel, and all the peaks you climbined? If you had an additional week in Bolovia are other peaks you would have liked to climb in the Cordillera Real? For an Andes newbie, (but no stranger to big, cold peaks), would you recommend Peru or Bolivia for a first trip? Can you comment on the relative expense, booking accommodations, obtaining basic supplies (stove fuel, food), and transportation to the mountains between the two countries? Thanks, DPS
  25. Would love to repeat this year as well in the immediate next weather window, which would be any 2 days in this month, June. Looking for partner, at least 1 or max 3. Going up the "The Fan" and Wilson Gully on our way back. Our 2018 TR at https://www.meetup.com/adventurers-100/events/253054279/ I'm still looking for a partner for LR this 2019 which takes priority over Kautz Glacier route.
  26. Suggestions on where to live

    Appreciate the suggestions! I'm more focused on finding a core group of likeminded mountaineers to venture forth with than a good singles scene. Asheville's ruined the singles scene enough for me to swear off dating forever. (Crystals. Are. Not. Deodorant. OK?) As for rock climbing, I'm very much a novice there. Right now I'm focusing on building my aerobic base and learning the basic skills I need to slog it safely up the less-technical peaks. That will change as I get more experience, though.
  27. Interesting. I climbed these four peaks with my son a couple years ago and we rated them very differently: Pinnacle: 3 stars Cardinal: 0 stars (what a POS with no snow!) Emerald: 3 stars Saska: 2 stars (he would probably say 1 - but I liked the finish) Strong work!
  28. While on the way to the North Cleaver route on Adams on June 15, 2019, we came across a 1.5-liter blue Nalgene. It was sitting on a rock at the intersection of Killen Creek Trail and PCT. Judging by the stickers, it probably belongs to someone from Seattle, or at least from the state of Washington. Pictures attached. If you know who it belongs to, please contact me by private message.
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