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  1. Today
  2. Booty discussion

    Abandoned property. Climbers usually only leave gear mid-route when they are retreating. My partner and I bailed off Gorillas in the Mist a few years ago when we got off route up high in the face of approaching wet weather. We rapped down complex, overhanging terrain in the dark, leaving multiple nuts, slings, and carabiners behind. We split the cost of the gear we left behind. It's loss was a small price to pay for safely getting off the route. It didn't occur to me then, and doesn't now, that we might ask future parties to collect our abandoned gear and return it to us. That seems like a very entitled attitude. Whoever finds these things is welcome to keep them. If that person chooses to search for the owners because that's what they want to do, then that's their prerogative. In another example, I inadvertently left my helmet high on the corkscrew trail on Sloan when Brandon and I unroped to scramble for the summit after climbing Diamond in the Rough. A few years later, I was communicating with another Sloan climber and learned that he had found my helmet and brought it down the mountain. He kindly offered to return it, but at that point I had chalked it up as lost for good and had replaced it. I told him he could keep it or pass it on to someone else who could use it.
  3. Booty discussion

    "Lost property" versus "Mislaid property"
  4. Booty discussion

  5. I learned on this trip that araucarias actually grow significantly slower in their native range in Chile. A little research says they could grow 8-10x as fast in other climates. Compare http://www.chilebosque.cl/flora/araucaria_araucana.html vs https://selectree.calpoly.edu/tree-detail/araucaria-araucana So yeah, they like our climate a lot.
  6. Booty discussion

    There is climbing culture and there are civil laws ... one might to read up on the later before spewing about the former.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Booty discussion

    Professor, what's another word for pirate treasure? Where is kevbone with that picture of Venus Williams' butt? Cause that was BOOTY
  9. Booty discussion

    anything i find if it's remotely near my birthday => booty
  10. they seem to like the climate of the pnw just fine - i see them all over the place in folk's yards - don't seem to jibe well w/ the whole feng shui thing, but they do look quite suessian
  11. Booty discussion

    One person's bolt ladder is another person's free climbing project: NOT BOOTY. Bolt ladder leading up to the Kompressor on Fitz Roy: BOOTY.
  12. Booty discussion

    iPhone 7 found on the Ingraham glacier, maybe 40' off the route, as I was skiing by. I stopped to check it out, must've been there a week or so. It didn't turn on but did once I charged it at home. I left it on for a week, no calls, posted here and on TAY. I guess the owner had moved on. BOOTY
  13. Booty discussion

    Brought a friend who was new to climbing on the tooth. On the first pitch, he just unclipped/took the draws off the first few nuts, then yelled up asking if he should be cleaning the gear. I said yes and he started cleaning. Maybe my fault for assuming he knew what to do... On our way out the nuts were gone, apparently some guys had grabbed them on their way down. I definitely blame my friend for that, not the guys who took them. Would have been nice to get them back but hey, got some new nuts out of it when we got back down.
  14. Booty discussion

    What about a bolt ladder on something that hasn't seen a free ascent, like on Monkey Face? We encountered this at Smith in 2003 without a note or sign anywhere around to indicate someone was working the route. No ropes, no chalk, not a soul around, but new draws on every bolt. I realize this might be hard to believe in this day and age.
  15. Booty discussion

    By the time I was at the top of the chute, they were well on their way towards Point Success - no way I was going to a couple hours to follow them up to return dropped gear that could've split open someone's skull on the way down. Never saw them on the summit or descent either - but no reports of rescues that week, so they managed I guess!
  16. Booty discussion

    Benzo, why not try to return the gear to the climbers who dropped it? Seems like "not booty" if the climbers were in plain sight and possible to return the gear.
  17. I'll be taking a couple weeks vacation in late June next year to get some climbing in on the big boys. I'm tentatively thinking about flying into Portland, doing Hood via Hogsback, then drive up to Adams and do Mazama, then maybe cap it off with Rainier doing DC (maybe Emmons, though that may be tough to budget in time-wise). Looking for partners who'd be interested in one or all of those (Hood and Adams are the priority, as I've not been on those). I'm 32 and in good shape, I've got ~10-12yrs of rock climbing experience, and have been on Rainier 3 times (2 successful) - any partners should be equally (or more) experienced with glacier travel. I'm a laid-back person who's more interested in having a good time with people than peak-bagging - if you're interested hit me up!
  18. Booty discussion

    About 2 yrs ago I was doing Kautz - get to the chute and see these two guys starting up it and were just RAINING small-to-largish chunks of ice on everyone below. Took a golfball-sized bit of ice to the helmet even. Anyway, we go up after them (or at least when the hailstorm finally ended) and I start finding loads of stuff they'd dropped - an ice screw with draw attached, a locking biner with an atc, and another quickdraw. By the time we're at the top of the chute, we notice they've (I assume) taken the wrong way up to Point Success instead of Wapowety, and while we're heading to the cleaver you could see them evidently realize they'd gone the wrong way and decide to traverse back toward the true summit through a mess of seracs and whatnot. As far as I know they summited and got back down...? A stupefying experience, but hey - booty is booty.
  19. Booty discussion

    Can you keep the gear you find at a climbing area or not? That is the question. Apparently, some people don't understand this important part of climbing culture, so here is a reminder in the form of a case study. BOOTY = Finder may keep it without guilt or return it at their discretion. Loser should not expect gear returned. NOT BOOTY = finder should attempt to find the loser and return his/her gear, a finder's fee or some other form of gratitude is generally appropriate. Single biner or quickdraw and/or piece of removable protection on a climb that was probably left by someone who bailed because it was too hard/scary. BOOTY. 1-2 cams/nuts on a route, probably by left by someone who bailed or a partner who couldn't clean them or some stoners who just forgot them. BOOTY. Biner on slings or otherwise in an anchor where it looks like people belay and/or rappel, particularly in the alpine. NOT BOOTY. Quickdraws or perma-draws on every bolt of a steep sport route where it's difficult to clean/place quickdraws. NOT BOOTY. Nut or other removable protection in an anchor in the alpine. Probably NOT BOOTY unless the rest of the anchor is super solid. Gear left in a bucket/bag under a rock/tree near climbs where route development/maintenance is happening. NOT BOOTY. Someone's cute ass. Definitely BOOTY, but you need consent to grab it and/or take it home. Feel free to add your own cases and spread the word.
  20. Yeah, the araucarias are pretty stiff and very spiky (even the trunks are covered with the "leaves" when young). If you ever get a chance to fondle a young one, you'll be sure not to ski into it.
  21. i imagine skiing into a chilean pine is an extra phuck-you as compared to yer typical, god-fearing non-spiny spruce
  22. I'm looking for an experienced partner for a 2020 Emmons glacier route climb of mount Rainier. Must be experienced, not a first time climber. I'm looking to expand my mountaineering/climbing experience. My experience: I've summited Mt. Rainier on the DC route on a 2 man team and a 5 man group to the top of Mt. Whitney during spring. Please respond to this post or text me 253-326-oneone76.
  23. Last week
  24. Beacon

    10/15 - day 47, laps 113-114 - limpid air, dull breeze, the gorge heavy with a big long soak coming in by midnight - an indifferent hour, this place don't give a fuck and never will, but sweet jeebus, they could at least keep the bathroom from seeping into the crick, right? the first pitch a lady-bug obstacle course these past 2 days - crazy bad karma if you squish one of those beeches, but the stink bugs on pitch 2 are more of a mind-fuck - blending in well w/ the grey stone, they do nothing till they sense you're near, then play dead, falling ballistically downwards from wherever they're perched softly upon you, potentially making a lesser man squeal like a baby despite their innocuousness and just let go out of simple stupidness - dave in the lot after the first lap but his mojo done took a downturn after a few too many nights flying close to that blackhole sun and he eschewed the invite to accompany me on the 2nd - contemplated a third but the long shadows and the promise of free coffee at the skamania mart if i hurried n' brought my own cup called me home, so westwards i turned, tuning into the inanity of libturds tearing into each other on the debate stage to keep me awake along the way
  25. Trip: Araucanía, Bio-Bio, Ñuble (Chile) - Lonquimay, Llaima, Antuco, Nevados de Chillán, et al Trip Date: 10/01/2019 Trip Report: I enjoyed two great weeks of skiing in Central-South Chile with Joe recently. We left Seattle on the evening of 9/29, skied our first turns on the afternoon of 10/1, last turns on 10/10, and I started my travel odyssey the next day, arriving back home on the 13th. This is the usual prime volcano season, but, as in the PNW, storms can come through at any time. The mountains received a strong and unusually cold storm right before we got there, so rather than skiing the corn we thought we would, we had to make do with dry powder. Luckily the weather was stable enough to get in a number of good summits. As we headed North, following the better weather, the snowpack changed into more typical spring conditions. Big highlights were skiing in the Araucaría (monkey puzzle tree) forests, the quality of the snow, some excellent food finds, and spending time with Chilenos. I'll let the photos speak for themselves. Lonquimay & Corralco ski area Lift-served pow at 5 pm Pow off the top of Lonquimay 4000 ft later Llaima Big graupel from thunderstorms the afternoon before Llaima's impressive summit crater with Lanín (left) and Rukapillán (right) Thousands of feet of moderately steep pow Tolhuaca (which we did not ski) Pucón vibes Antuco Freezing rain crust, Laguna del Laja, and peaks E Views of Sierra Velluda (right, near), volcanoes Callaqui, Lonquimay, Llaima, and Tolhuaca (left to right in distance) Great chalk transitioning into corn The road to Antuco Nevados de Chillán Antuco in the distance, "mountaineering" snow Alpenglow & ash coming from the Chillán Nuevo, Nevados left and Viejo right. View from Onai Thanks, Chopo & Fran! For those of you interested in making a trip like this happen, the detailed beta is pretty easy to come by. If you are perhaps interested in a guided trip, Joe will be offering one next year through Pro Guiding Service with similar dates. The focus will be on keeping it budget friendly and focused on good skiing. Some other little plugs: Coni at Masajes Pucón did an excellent job helping my tight muscles on our down day, highly recommend if you're in Pucón Onai hostel, run by Chopo Díaz, who is one of the most decorated freeriders in Chile, is an awesome place to stay in Las Trancas, near Chillán Gear Notes: Standard + ski lifts at Corralco Approach Notes: Aeromexico -> Santiago, Sky Airlines -> Temuco, rental Subaru XC
  26. FS: Solo Aid Self Belay Device, Climbing Ladders

    Wow, that’s a 9 year old FS ad! Better luck posting a wanted ad!
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