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  1. Today
  2. Climbing Denali 2019

    Did anyone that posted here summit in 2019? Or still looking to get Denali?
  3. I'm looking for a couple more partners for pretty much weekly single days out climbing, mostly in Washington Pass. I plan to climb almost every Friday, and will generally drive up Thursday evenings and camp. (I can do other days too.) Over the last couple summers I've climbed Beckey Route, SW Rib of SEWS, North Face of Burgundy, Prime Rib of Goat and Petit Cheval and want to do a handful more such days this coming summer. I prefer routes out in the mountains where you feel a bit removed and am not so interested in crag areas. It's just work and family that make it tricky to find time for longer trips. When I started climbing I took the very thorough Southern California Mountaineering Association's safety course and safety has always been very important to me. I'd really like to find another two or three climbers who can also regularly get out for a full day midweek. I'd propose that we meet for lunch and sort out some plans and then start on something familiar and then go from there. We can also meet at Vertical World. I'm 41 and live in Seattle. I started climbing about six years ago, but because of work and little kids have had a hard time getting out more than five days a year or so. This year I'll finally be able to get out a lot more. I hope to get started in April and then go weekly starting in May. Brendan
  4. Yesterday
  5. Trip: Mount Shuksan - White Salmon Gl. Trip Date: 02/20/2020 Trip Report: The paper says we are 7 inches ahead for rainfall right now in the Skagit Valley. Probably why last week I did everything I could to break free of work and get out in the sun, high on Mount Shuksan. I have to thank @dberdinka for organizing the hooky and @Trent for sharing in the enthusiasm. We weren't alone in our thinking- a few dozen others were seen out on the White Salmon, and even when we were descending after a run over by the North Face, more were coming. Even the (in)famous Jason Hummel was out showing pro Cody Townsend around the mountain. It was quite a day to soak up some rays and earn a few turns, so I can't blame anyone for joining in the fun. I hope you were out somewhere too..... Gear Notes: two sticks for the up, one or two for the down Approach Notes: I would drop thru the clear cut to the creek rather than try and stay high. Not bad turns to the valley bottom.
  6. Last week
  7. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    That's tough. Sorry to hear about that.
  8. Still on the hunt, anyone holding?
  9. Hi all! I lost an ice axe on my way down the St Helens summit. It's axe is a Camp USA Neve. Others in my group actually encountered someone who found my ice axe but know I had lost mine at the time. Thanks!
  10. for sale Marmot Parka, Dynafit TLT boots

    Interested in the tlt6s. Sent you a message
  11. Trip: Guye Peak - South Gully Trip Date: 02/20/2020 Trip Report: I climbed the south gully of Guye Peak this thursday, the first half of the route was in good conditions up to a steep rock wall covered with soft snow, I turned to the right out of the gully and climbed straight up in a lot of powder snow for the rest of the climb. Snowshoes highly recommended for the approach. Gear Notes: 2 ice axes Approach Notes: Snowshoes
  12. [TR] Stevens Pass - Yodelin 02/17/2020

    Right on! There was such good snow! I bet we did run into each other. Fun vibe out there. Fingers crossed for more after this weekend’s storm. Feels like the season still has plenty of legs!
  13. Marmot Greenland down parka, fully baffled. There is a little damage to the hood drawstring tunnel Size M, fits nice and big on me at 5'7 $300 + shipping from Bozeman Dynafit TLT5 boots, These are well used and one boot is missing the lower buckle. Liners are used but never heated. You can get a replacement from SkiMo in SLC for about $20. Still work and ski well though. $50 plus shipping Dynafit TLT6, size 27, BSL 297. Liners are used but never heated. This pair is in great shape and will ski for many more years. $200 + shipping
  14. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    Here's another interesting case involving an injured Sheriff's deputy suing SAR, another Deputy and contributing to Chouinard's bankruptcy and eventual sale to the employees. Also prompted the label showing how to put on your harness that's now sewn into the harness. https://casetext.com/case/swank-v-duffy-2/?resultsNav=false&PHONE_NUMBER_GROUP=C&NEW_CASE_PAGE=N
  15. wanted to buy WTB: Hilleberg Nammatj 2

    Would appreciate any other leads....thanks.
  16. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    https://www.seattletimes.com/news/hiker-rescuer-who-died-at-pilchuck-falls-identified/
  17. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    It may be the death knell for me as well.
  18. Road Closures

    So, just for giggles, I copied and pasted the link in Bigtree's post from May 21, 2013 and it takes you to the exact same page. http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/news-events/?cid=STELPRDB5420737 It must just be cached somewhere on the inter webs.
  19. [TR] Stevens Pass - Yodelin 02/17/2020

    Yahoo! My friend Deb and I were out there, too, I'm sure we chatted at some point. It was a stupendous day! Face shot after face shot!
  20. Road Closures

    Strange, it showed up on a news feed and looked legit. If you click the "roads and trail" link it doesn't show up on that page. Must be bogus.
  21. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    That's exactly why I ended up getting out of mountain rescue.
  22. Road Closures

    I don't think this is current information. There is no date on that page, one of my colleagues called the USFS and they didn't know anything about it, and I haven't heard about it via snowmobile access channels either.
  23. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    Can you provide some searchable details? Interested.
  24. Trip: Stevens Pass - Yodelin Trip Date: 02/17/2020 Trip Report: Just trying to get the *freshie zone* awake again... had a great time out on Yodelin Monday morning and afternoon. 7-12 inches fresh snow over a crust, deeper up high, deep right-side-up drifts of snow in the trees. Excellent skiing. Wishing I could go out and enjoy more before the sun gets to it this week. Let’s hear some more reports! What are you all finding out there? Gear Notes: AT skis Approach Notes: Parking lot was surprisingly only host to a dozen or so vehicles on a holiday? Follow the road cuts up to rolling tree and glade skiing. Steeper terrain but denser trees available to the NE.
  25. Thanks for the write up, Matt! Dead accurate approach beta. It was awesome to run into you, Bob. Thanks for the pics! It was great fun to eyeball a line and just give it a go. It’s definitely weird that this gets zero traffic. Guidebook blinder syndrome? When we finally get ice on the kitchen steeps, I’m definitely in for another lap. Couple more pics: Matt about to leave the ice climbing and re-enter the swim zone And Bob at the top of the vertical rime step
  26. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    This is very interesting to learn but not surprising given government bureaucracy/ lawyers and liability issues/ law enforcement hierarchy/ etc. and the very high costs involved when a major rescue is needed. Local SAR can never be replaced.
  27. Trip: Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation 0 Trip Date: 02/18/2020 Trip Report: Climbed a variation to the left of the regular DKHW left ("Variation 1" in Mullee) route on Monday along with CC members Nolan E Arson and kadyakerbob. I'm quite sure this wasn't a FA as it's an obvious line on a popular aspect of the mountain, but as far as I know there are no documented ascents of the route. Makes sense to refer to it as variation 0 following the Mullee numbering. The beginning of the route is currently a mix of exposed rock/rime. It turned out to be a lot steeper than it looked from the bottom. The rime takes good sticks but there are some surprisingly delicate, balance-y moves to move through the rock patches. Above the exposed rocks there's a flat-ish area where it looks like the gully splits into right and left options. The right option (more visible from the crater) didn't really look passable to me but the left had a nice, short, near-vertical step on solid rime. Above this we came out to a small clearing from which we could see climbers on the Hogsback. We went right and followed the narrow, snow filled gullies to where they meet up with the regular DKHW left variation (above the crux). Random Notes: The challenging climbing is all at the bottom of the route (the visible rock and the rime step above it). I don't think the upper portion could get significantly steeper than it is now, though it would be a lot more fun if it had ice instead of deep snow. In current conditions it seems unprotectable. You can put screws in the rime (and maybe rap on them) but there's no way they would hold any kind of fall. If legitimate ice ever forms on the route it would be great, and probably superior to variation 1, as it's longer, steeper, and more sustained. I will definitely check this route again once I know that there is fat ice on variation 1. I'd give the route the typical, meaningless AI3 rating. Right now it's noticeably harder than anything I've encountered on variation 1. The line we took: Some very steep snow in the entrance gully: Short rime fin below the rocks: Bottom part of rocky section: Top part of rocky section: Going left over the rime step: Wide-angle shot of above the rime step. Follow the narrow gully right. Typical deep snow in the gullies: Looking down from where the route joins variation 1. Variation 1 crux is just below and to the left of the central rime mushrooms, we emerged on the right. Gear Notes: Rope, screws, draws, etc., were all good training weight, useless on route. Approach Notes: When I walk it it's deep powder, when I ski it it's chickenheads.
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