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  2. Now you're figuring out my secrets @genepires! Yes, 300mm in the case of that Dome photo (many of the others were in the 120mm range), plus a bit of cropping. It helped that the air was quite clear, hiding my optical jiu jitsu.
  3. did you need a telephoto lens to get some of those photos? Seems like dome is pretty damn close but I thought dome was light years from anything else.
  4. Looking for solid partners to lead or join a climbing expedition to one of these places in June. Open to other suggestions as well. Please email me directly at AscanioPignatelli ATgmail.com for more info. Thank you.
  5. Trip: Huckleberry Mountain - The Trail Trip Date: 11/30/2019 Trip Report: In perhaps the longest shoulder season in 43 years what is a man to do? Ski areas closed, backcountry boney, ice thin, wet and scrappy....sigh. I guess it is time to slog up a bump in a scenic part of the range and take pictures. At least we didn't need snowshoes. That would have added insult to injury. Here are some views to tide you over until who knows when....... (I hope you like Whitechuck). You'll get used to Whitechuck (captions are for photo above) Pugh and phew, it's a long way up to this point of the ridge and the views. It looks snowy in the upper Suiattle, but don't be fooled. Tired of Whitechuck yet? Dome Sloan (L) and Misch(R), one is worth climbing and the other isn't. Dakobed You guessed it Dakobed again.... The Suiattle River Road is still fixed, thankfully Gear Notes: boots and a sense of humor Approach Notes: Suiattle Road to the TH and start walking uphill!
  6. Yesterday
  7. I feel like more than half the time I just end up taking my tools for a long walk in the bushes.
  8. So much climbing news this week

    We came seeking truth, good Romans and soldiers, believing in jus militiae we traveled those long distances to far away lands for a few denarius, challenges and the companionship. At first, our brothers lauded our deeds and feats. They sang of our stout hearts and daring. The daring became routine, and unable to outdo each feat - the freeborn citizens became blase if such could be believed. The Patricians still cheered....but much quieter. In later years, they turned from us, as if we did not exist. But having existed on a higher plane, they wished to pull us down. Yet still we journeyed to those far away lands. We did not do it for them before, we did not need their appropriation and cheers to yet do so. Soon will be the clash of the low gravity and the dragon, rare as the Dragons are today. In olden days they existed everywhere, now there are few, and the memory of them declines as honest citizens doubt they existed at all. Exist they did and do my brothers. If my silence comes, then know thee that the dragon yet lives. I leave you with this and with that. For the job must fall to those who can slay it. We can do nothing else, for we are what we are, no amount of apologies changes it.
  9. idea Let's talk clothing systems.

    A few clothing tips. If goose down wets out you have two thin layers of nylon with a couple of frozen feathers inbetween for insulation. That was happening once to me with a pair of goose down mitts, luckly it was a day trip and I was getting close to the car. I suggest primaloft mitts, for any winter conditions put them in the bottom of the pack, someday they will save your fingers. With good fitting mitts and determination one can do moderate ice climbing with them on--most of the time, handy skill when really cold with wind. It is good for the one of the party to have extra gloves or mitts, sooner or later over many climbs or hikes you drop a glove down a hole or over the side etc. In high winds and cold need cover to every inch of skin, nice to have liner gloves for very cold. Most guys use goggles in very cold and windy, I find that my sweat freezes inside and can't see. As a alternative or backup use two balacavicas or a ski mask and a balacavica. Put both on and arrange the fabric overlapping to make eye slits. Works very good and can easily adjust as needed the windy side of face gets the smaller eye slit. This also works in bright sun if you lose the sun glasses. If really cold bring all clothes and leather boots inside sleeping bag. If wet weather and have goose down sleeping bag, may have only a few days before it wets out. Wool drys slower than synthetic, it is harder to dry out wool socks and gloves verses synthetic. Synthetic socks dry on the feet inside the sleeping bag in a couple hours making the feet cold while drying, then after the feet are dry and warmer. Wool verses synthetic, both warm damp, both not so warm wet, wool dries slower which can be better or worse depending situation. It seems wool gloves are warmer than knit synthetic gloves when wet. Primaloft mitts are the warmest hand wear in my experience. Wool does not smell so better for long trips in this reguard. Chemical toe warmers work for 6 hours if not have ones left over from last season, dont trust the store. Buy the best fitting boots you can, you can save money with cheaper clothes. Cheaper clothes are plenty good enough, just bulky. In most cases the first boots should be leather for summer alpine usage. For winter get leather insulated boots, the plastic boots are less useful unless very cold. Dont expect the waterproof breathable to be breathable enough while hiking uphill. In most cases a base layer with a breathable windshirt is all you need while on the move hiking. The puffy, hardshell, softshell, midlayer are most often used less. The wind shirt with base layer combo allows the hiker use the least amount of clothing to stay cooler,dryer and keep more moisture in the body. Of course as it gets colder heavier clothing can be used. You want a breathable windshirt, avoid those with low breathability.
  10. Sorry! I just wanted to share the info for the future. I guess we've all taken our tools for a long walk in he bushes though, it's a Cascades passage but bummer on the phone. I'd head back in this weekend if anyone wants. Not sure how it will all fare though.
  11. @OlympicMtnBoy no! Now I'm really bummed.
  12. Last week
  13. Doh! We did your same scoping from the road and a few mins down the creek on Sunday. Then we drove to the end of the road and did a fun 3 pitch wi 2-3 next to the demon mine. Might get snowed under and rained out this week though.
  14. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Found some fun moderate ice below Lennox Mtn! About 3000’ so may be getting rained on and the road may no longer be easy to drive. Low snow made avy danger a non issue this weekend.
  15. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Kinda wet and thin in SWBC
  16. Prices include shipping cost. Sold - Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows - Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein - Chockstone Press, 3rd Edition, 1992 - Very good, perused condition. Solid binding. Top right hand corner of cover is a bit creased. 1st few pages are a little dirty. Otherwise excellent. Asking $11.00. Rock Climbing Idaho's City of Rocks - Tony Calderone - Chockstone Press, A Falcon Guide, 1999 - Excellent used condition without notations. Asking $12.00. On the Ridge Between Life And Death, A Climbing Life Examined - David Roberts - Simon and Schuster, 2006 - Near new, asking $10.00. Addicted To Danger, A Memoir About Affirming Life In The Face Of Death - Jim Wickwire and Dorothy Bullitt - Pocket Books, 1998 - Hardcover in excellent condition. Asking $12.00. A 1931 Title - Told At The Explorers Club, True Tales Of Modern Exploration - Edited by Frederick A. Blossom - Albert and Charles Boni, 2nd Printing , 1936 - Hardcover in very good used condition. Solid binding, As with most vintage titles, some color fading on the covers. Asking $15.00. Great gift. Sold - Colorado Scrambles, A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado's Mountains - Dave Cooper - Colorado Mountain Club Press, 2005 - Color maps and photo's, detailed route descriptions. Excellent used condition, asking $12.00. High Exposure, An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places - David Breashears - Simon and Schuster, 1999 - Hard cover, near new. Asking $12.00, shipped. Boulder (Colorado) Hiking Trails - Carol and Glenn Cushman - Pruett Publishing, 1995 - Like new, Asking $10.00, shipped. Sold - Snowshoeing Colorado - Claire Walker - Fulcrum Publishing, Golden, 2004 - Very good perused condition, asking $11.00. Rocky Mountain National Park, The Complete Hiking Guide – Lisa Foster – Westcliffe Publishers, 2005 – Very good thumbed through condition. Asking $14.00. Sold - 100 Hikes in Arizona - Scott Warren - The Mountaineers - Excellent thumbed through condition. A few pages have been dog eared. $9.00. Highroad Guide To The Georgia Mountains - Georgia Conservancy, Longstreet Press - Hiking Guide, Natural and Cultural History – Excellent thumbed through condition. $10.00. Mountaineering The Freedom of the Hills - 3rd Edition, 1974 – Good condition copy of this older edition, solid binding. Asking $10.00. Boulder Climbs South (Boulder,CO) - Chockstone Press, Evergreen, 1989. 411 pages. Good, moderately used condition with a solid binding. $10.00. Pure and Perceptual Snow - Two Climbs in The Andes of Peru - David Mazel - The Free Solo Press, 1987 - Excellent read condition. $9.00 A Climbers Climber - On The Trail With Carl Blaurock - Cordillera Press Inc, 1984 - Nearly new condition.Asking $10.00. Buy one, choose a complimentary title: Wilderness Medical Society, Practice guidelines For Wilderness Emergency Care - Edited by William W. Forgey MD with 30 contributors - Wilderness Medical Society, 1995 - Excellent perused condition. Soft Paths – Bruce Hampton and David Cole – Nols, Stackpole Books, 1988 – Very good condition. Peterson Field Guide to Rocks And Minerals - Fredrick Pough - 4th Edition, 1976 - Very good condition. Spoken For - Easy Day Hikes in Glacier and Waterton Lakes NP’s – A Falcon Guide – Near new. The Hikers Hip Pocket Guide To The Humboldt Coast – Bob Lorentzen – Bored Feet Publications, 1993 – good condition although there’s a fold on the front cover. Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1994 - The American Alpine Club, Golden, CO - As new. Riding the Guerrilla Highway – Michael Devloo, 2010 – Excellent condition, Note inside the cover. - Bicycle Journey through South America - Ghost Stories of The Rocky Mountains - Barbara Smith - Lone Pine Publishing, 1999 - Good, well read condition. Rocky Mountain Mammals - A Handbook of Mammals of RMNP and Vicinity - David M. Armstrong - Colorado Associated University Press and Rocky Mountain Nature Association, 1987 - Very good used condition.
  17. @rat crazy! If only we had known this and driven further up the road... kickin myself for not researching more. Alas, seems like that was a bit greater of a cold spell and maybe those routes were not in. At least that's what I'll tell myself...
  18. you might try exploring near the end of the road if we get another low elevation cold snap w/o snow. by then, though, the goat basin routes will probably be in nick.
  19. Good on you for getting out there and giving it a shot. Sometimes the rope just needs to get some fresh air and go for a walk. They don’t like being cooped up in a closet.
  20. UPDATE: PACK RETURNED! Posting for a friend: 8:30pm Saturday night his backpack was left at the pullout across from Cutthroat at WA Pass. Returned at 10:30pm after realizing it was left behind, but someone had picked it up already. It was one of the three guys in the yellow van. Please, hit me up if you know its whereabouts! Notes left on cars and at the Mazama store. Bummer end to their fun day! https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118111639/washington-pass-arcteryx-backpack-with-ice-climbing-gear
  21. Trip: Lennox Mountain - Goat Basin Ice Climbs FAIL Trip Date: 11/30/2019 Trip Report: TLDR: the approach is pretty heinous without snow coverage. Lots of climbable ice, even in the lower basin at 2500 ft, but the approach terrain is confusing, brushy, and rugged. Long version: I've long been curious about the Dave Burdick ice routes in Goat Basin beneath Lennox Mountain. There's not much information about them expect for when Dave originally went up there himself. During this recent coldsnap, I was wondering where to find substantial ice and this seemed like a good shot: north facing basin fed by large snowfields above. Flow is the issues during this old season cold snap, but the north slopes of Lennox are large enough that I thought there'd be enough water to form ice. We drove up the Money Creek Road, which is in good shape. Through the trees, it appeared we saw ice up there. We parked near a pullout and tried to find a place to cross Money Creek. We found a spot where I could make it across the icy boulders with trekking poles, but my buddy unfortunately fell in. We dumped his boots out on the other side and dried out some of his clothes. I'd recommend just fording. We started up on the west side of Goat Creek. The amount of blowdowns was ridiculous and movement was really slow, so we bailed westward, finding an open clearing at the base of an avalanche slope. This was very brushy and we couldn't see our feet, but at least it was easier than the dense forest. Then we got onto some dry rock creekbeds. It wasn't brushy, but all the rocks were covered in frost and ice, making for slow travel. Eventually this creekbed joined again with Goat Creek and we walked up the west bank of Goat Creek. At this point, we started to see a bunch of long ice gullies coming down into this lower valley, down to an elevation of about 2500 ft! These lines were about 1000 ft long, with many sections of WI2-3. Like a mouse is drawn to shiny things, we decided to try exploring one of these. But our vision of the lower sections was obscured by alder and terrain, so it was difficult to choose which one. Eventually we made our choice and climbed out of the steep river bank. The alder got really bad as we got closer to the climb, and the boulders had snow on them underfoot, pretty nasty. When I reached the base of the climb, I was disappointed to see that the entire 100+ ft first pitch, formerly obscured from us, actually began in a pool of water and was too thin down low. Additionally, there was another cliff below us that prevented traversing to the next flow to our left. The terrain is deceptively complex out here, a maze of alder and canyons, much like the kind of narrow topographical canyons you see in the Wenatchee or Yakima foothills. Bummed, we retreated to the valley floor, only to find that the alder had unzipped my pocket and my phone was missing. We retraced my steps using the GPS in the alder, but never found it. Time for an upgrade, I guess. The first pitch of our long proposed route. Everything above it looked great. Back at the valley floor, we decided to move leftwards and try to ascend the boulder slope on the SE side of the valley that would lead us to Goat Basin. Alder kept us pinned on the riverbed, but it became entangled in a slot canyon, necessitating some spicy ice slab scrambling to get around the riverbank. On the way back, we would cross the river a few times to avoid this. Going up the boulder field, the snow got deeper and movement slower. Eventually we just gave up. From here, we finally had a good viewpoint of all the lower flows. If we had this view to start the day, we could've seen the way of bypassing some lower wet pitches and getting on the beautiful upper flows. But alas, it was too late in the day, I was pretty beat up mentally by the rugged approach (we covered only like ~1 mile), so we started the painful descent down the snowy boulders. Good view of the lower valley. Lots of good looking low angle lines. We nailed the routefinding on the return trip and did everything in probably half the time. It's amazing what a little beta can do. It was pretty disappointing to not get on any ice even with the cold temps we have had, but conditions in the Cascades are deceptively bad right now. I guess this is the price I pay for being an adventurous climber and explorer. I am new to travel in the mountains in this sort of shoulder season and am learning so much about when and where to go and when to just stay home. I have no doubt the actual Goat Basin climbs were in, as these lower ones were in above 2500 ft. I would not recommend this approach under anything but a mid winter snowpack. The brush and boulders are really bad, but with a few feet of snow, it could be pretty fast. Just be careful because the slopes are subject to significant overhead avy danger. The Money Creek crossing would be a pain at any time of year. Big thanks to Chris for always enjoying my crazy adventure ideas and staying positive. Hopefully this information is helpful to someone and our sufferings will be vindicated. Gear Notes: Screws and ropes and tools, used none of them sadly. Approach Notes: It's rough. Stick west of Goat Creek initially, then cross back to the east side as you ascend to Goat Basin.
  22. Good deal on a great boot, in my size no less. If I did not just buy two new pairs I'd be all over this deal.
  23. Brad Gobright died in a fall in Potrero Chico. Kyra Condie and Nathanial Coleman qualified for the Olympics and local star Sean Bailey came super close (videos on IFSC Youtube). Emily Harrington had a big fall on El Cap but walked away with only minor injuries. I think I have emotional whiplash.
  24. idea Let's talk clothing systems.

    https://andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/antidote_to_grimness A article, so less is more. Three different states, one moving hard like uphill hiking, then need a thin breathable set of clothes. Then the stop and go, such as when climbing then need a bit more insulation, often something ventible. Then the standing still puffy to put on when very cold or not moving. Lastly some sort of waterproof to prevent dumping rain washing the heat out of the body. People who sweat little can get away with too much clothing but overheating still slows them down. They also can handle a good breathable hardshell a lot better in terms of not wetting out due to sweat. Water proof breathables or hardshell are not breathable enough very often. A hardshell is likely to be breathable enough for stop and go climbing. It is nice to have a system that will dry you out from body heat. Pile and pertex , paramo, fleece with a pertex windshirt, thin nylon pants, etc can work. If a waterproof is left on top then hard to dry out under layers due to not enough wicking and breathability. The thinner and more breathable the base layer the better for not wetting out the base layer. Multiple layers saturated with water can be harder to dry out. Layers with not breathable enough material will be harder to dry, wool is harder to dry than synthetic. Wool and fleece are warm when damp, wool and fleece not as warm when wet. It is best have clothes that will not hold much water, so can shake the water out of them or wring water out. Best is synthetic clothing in this reguard, some synthetic materials and clothing items are better than others. It seems that surface layers slow drying, ie fewer layers may dry faster.
  25. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    I took a couple of explorarory hikes this weekend and here are my observations. Cascade Pass, my favorite early season hunting ground, is very bony. Mixup and Sahale will probably go, but it will take a couple of storm/melt/freeze cycles to bring the big, sexy un-climbed and un-repeated routes into condition. Snoqualmie Pass. Alpenthal Falls, Chockstone Falls, and Source Lake Line will all need one to two weeks of cold temps to come into shape. NE Buttress of Chair would go, but very thin and mixed. East and North Faces will need a couple more storms cycles to bring them in. Nothing else looked very appealing.
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