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  2. Conditions Report: Static Point

    Thanks for putting in the work out there. Still have one or two of the rusty old 1/4" Leeper numbers off of the route just left of Online ("The Fly?" or was it "American Pie"?) from when I helped some folks replace the original bolts on those routes ~15+ years ago. I seem to remember most of the bolts on Online being modern 3/8" expansion bolts back then, except at the anchors where there was usually a remnant Leeper in addition to a modern bolt. This was probably back in '02 or '03, so it's possible they rusted out if they weren't stainless. Also possible that my recollection is off. The crux pitch on Online always produced the desired/dreaded slab climbing zen state, and I'm glad I had the chance to experience the route 2-3 times in it's original state, although I'm also sure I'll also enjoy the route in its current incarnation as well if I make it back there. I'm assuming the bolts were added to the crux pitch. Anywhere else? As an aside, I can remember that way back in the oughts in a bygone era when long, tedious arguments about retro-bolting were the coin of the realm on message boards, I'd often chide the purists by saying something to the effect of "An extra bolt only changes the character of the route if you clip it. If you're such a hardass, skip the bolt that you object to." That was more of a taunt than a serious argument, but it's sort of cosmically ironic that if there is an extra-bolt on the crux pitch I'll face the prospect of being haunted by my own taunts from yesteryear....
  3. Today
  4. for sale Tua Montet 192cm

    Tua Montet Telemark Skis: 192 cm w/BD Riva bindings. Ski base is in very good shape. Can send pics, $75, pickup Hillsboro OR
  5. Yesterday
  6. I've done that approach twice for NE buttress of Goode so I'm not sure I'd want a repeat (gawd it's awfully long and you are right about how far you really need to get on the first day). But it's definitely a cool TR - I never thought of even looking for a route from this side, since almost everyone seems to do the S side route (which does have some typical Cascade Choss). I'm actually wondering how the two would compare - the S side involves that long hump from trail to 7K that is pretty rugged and brutal itself....
  7. Shuksan North Face

    Went for a hike to Hannegan peak Sunday. Not a lot of new snow up there, so there are a number of rockbands. This is from the morning, and much of that white was gone in the afternoon.
  8. Shuksan North Face

    Does anyone have a recent photo of the north face of Shuksan? Possibly from Goat Mountain or nearby. I'm looking to assess ice/rock ratios. Thanks.
  9. Shuksan North Face

    Does anyone have a recent photo of the north face of Shuksan? Possibly from Goat Mountain or nearby. I'm looking to assess ice/rock ratios. Thanks.
  10. Conditions Report: Static Point

    Thanks for the hard work! It is a magical place. I do feel a little bummed about the added bolts, that was the most memorable aspect of online for me. I hope the run out on American pie was preserved?
  11. Last week
  12. Hi folks, its been ages since I posted here last. I want to share an update with y'all about Static Point. Thanks to the hard work started by Mark Hanna, and wrapped up by me, the Online Sector at Static Point is completely rebolted. And at the request of the FA team, Online in particular has been retrobolted to make it a little less R. Don't worry, it's still exciting! Also, a rappel line has been added from Tombstone Ledge to the ground, roughly following the line of Epitaph. So it's possible to climb to the top of the sector and rappel with a single 60m rope. All the beta and topos can be found on my website. I do ask if you copy the topos, please consider making a donation in the sidebar to help me pay for the tools, gas and time I've taken to head out there, almost weekly, this summer. And a special shout out should be made to thank the ASCA and WARP for providing the hardware and the training to get the job done right. I'll be moving on to The Pillar Sector next summer and the trail will always need work. It's a magical place - where battery-powered drills were first used (on lead!) in Washington state. Check it out! LINK to beta and tops: https://bit.ly/36ioSwQ
  13. Just discovered my profile here showed my birthday as 11/30/1999. Yeah, good to be 21 again! For goodness sake, I've just signed up for Medicare... Changed it.

  14. Another reminder there is no climbing in Idaho

    "Hard to get to." How hard?
  15. long & free rock/alpine partner

    Check your PMs.
  16. Another reminder there is no climbing in Idaho

    what an ugly stack of rocks
  17. Ptarmigan Traverse Questions?

    I went this summer with a group of friends. I would echo everyone else's advice. A couple things to add, we only took 1L of water each and just collected more along the hike each day. No need to carry more than a liter or melt snow. Also on footwear I would advise against a real mountaineering boot. Pretty much everybody took hiking boots. The only 2 people to take mountaineering boots both ended up with a lot of blisters. Finally a note on the Bachelor Creek trail. Despite what some people tell you there is actually a trail there. Yes it is overgrown and bushy but there is a trail. You do not have to bushwhack, and if you are then you are off the trail.
  18. Ptarmigan Traverse Questions?

    there is a pretty good thread on cascade footwear that may be helpful for your gear choices.
  19. Ptarmigan Traverse Questions?

    @keenwesh is spot on. The Downey fire will mess up the last bit of the exit, but not enough to scare anyone off, I don't think. It will be well beat in by July next year.
  20. Another reminder there is no climbing in Idaho

    That looks OK, I guess, if you're into that sort of thing.
  21. review Suunto Customer Service Sucks

    All will be forgiven once it arrives and you begin living with the suunto boost, a bonus 20% vert (sometimes 200%!) on your runs!
  22. Ptarmigan Traverse Questions?

    Aluminum crampons and Trangos would be perfect, the traverse itself could and has been done in running shoes. Tent wise you want something that keeps the bugs out, most camps are quite delux. As far as choice of sleeping bag, whatever works. Check the weather obviously but I just line my stuffsack with a garbage bag and do my best to keep things dry. you shouldn’t have to melt snow at any of the normal camps. I heard about the fire at the southern end. I wonder how that’ll change the final bit of trail...
  23. The internal coating on my Genie is dieing and it makes me sad
  24. Hoping to make a go at the Ptarmigan next summer And was interested in folks thoughts on gear? Thinking 5 or 6 days likely mid july, likely with at least a summit or two a!ong the way. Its a few pounds swing depending on decisions, but im totally paranoid about being underprepared, and also lazy about carrying extra weight! Crampons aluminum or steel? Dropping weight sounds great but only if the aluminums will hold up. Slerping bag, synthetic or the new fancy waterproof-ish down? (do the coatings practically help?) A light down bag sounds great, but extended use makes me nervous when there arent any easy exit points Boots, light synthetics (La Sportiva Trangos or similar) or something more insulated? Will the lighter ones be warm enough, thinking yes but im paranoid! Water access? TR show mostly camping near small lakes, so im thinking water filter as opposed to needing to melt snow. Tent, free standing or is it possible to reliably stake out a tent at most of the sites? TIA!
  25. This is a teaser post. Full trip report will emerge, hopefully in the AAC journal. We had fun. 40+ pitches of climbing, 5.8 to 5.12, each averaging 60m, in a week for 6 of us. Great rock, great company. Hard to get to.
  26. I loved this route, even if it was done in a major summer storm and we were benighted. Felt more like 5.9 to me although like with any route such as this many little variations are possible. Someone needs to snatch the FWA. Be a nice prize
  27. My friends and I are trying to get 3 permits to climb st. Helens this September or early October. If anyone has a permit they are looking to get rid of please let me know.
  28. [TR] Cutthroat Wall - One Piece at a Time (5.10d) 09/20/2020

    @Ben Johnson You were on the right track! The key is never taking the same route twice. As far as I'm aware the Wright/Pond also is waiting for a second ascent by someone other than the FA party. There is so much potential in that little zone!
  29. What is the deal with Suunto customer service? I ordered a ” in-stock watch” paid for it and was told that it would ship immediately. 3 weeks later still no watch. At first, days later still didn't ship, called, emailed, messaged customer svs promised it would ship the following Monday. Nope, repeat, ditto will ship in two days, NOPE - LIES. Repeat everything and now two weeks later no answers. What kind of company is this? The worst is it's part of Wilson who is a great customer service company. ”In stock” and still hasn't shipped but their site still says it is and is still taking orders! Ridiculous! 3/4 days to get a order out was ok ten years ago. Over 21and counting in 2020 you just suck. Whoever is responsible and thinks that is acceptable at Suunto needs to find a new job! Pissed before I even get my watch. Great start.
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