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  2. for sale Phantom 800's and Nepal Evo's size 44

    They are still available. Sorry, for the delay, notification went in my spam box.
  3. It's actually not weird at all Bob. Lemme explain in short words so you can go back to dishing out greasy-handed rub n tugs in peace It's likely that there will be some sort of undercover effort to find the perpetrator. A Mr Big sting (legal in Canada, though not in the US) or similar. At some point the guilty party will tell an undercover cop or informant "Yeah, I cut the cable." "How'd you do it?" "Well, I used a plasma cutter". or "an angle grinder" or whatever. BECAUSE that info hasn't been publicly released or reported, they have higher confidence that the guy is telling them the truth when he tells them how he did it. It's something that only he and they know. That won't work if everybody and his dumbfuck Polish buddy knows how it was done. So that's why they won't publicly say how it happened. Cause they don't want the general public to know.
  4. wanted to buy 4season tent 4 places

    Let me know if you are interested in a MSR StormKing. It's a 5 person.
  5. Yesterday (Sunday Aug 18th) I left my BD Distance Z trekking poles at the Blue Lake TH at WA Pass early afternoon. If anyone came across them please let me know, I'd be thrilled to get them back. Thanks!
  6. North Ridge of Baker

    wow! that top out is really broken up. times are a changin over the eyars.
  7. Exit 38 today?

    Hi all, my afternoon just opened up so I'm stoked to get out for some easy sport climbing at exit 38. I am available 1:30pm and after, have gear and rope, am familiar with the moderate climbs and have guidebook, and am experienced and safe. If you're interested, text me! 206-412-3187. Trang
  8. Trip: Mount Stuart - West Ridge Trip Date: 08/17/2019 Trip Report: A successful climb of the West Ridge of Mount Stuart must start with a shout out to everyone we got beta from ahead of time from the route descriptions, hand drawn topo and photos that helped us navigate the maze of possibilities. We packed fairly light (which still isn’t all that light doing a lot of exposed scrambling and a technical climb as a carryover) starting with packs between 25 and 30 pounds knowing we would be loading up an extra 4L of water each at Ingalls Lake. Car camped at the trailhead on Thursday night and were on the trail just after 6am Fri morning. We first tried to go around the right side of Ingalls Lake but appeared to be cliffed out right near the end. The choices were a chest deep wade around the corner or a slabby move that was a little to uncomfortable looking to start the morning out with. So, we back tracked and walked around the left side of the lake. A quick trip to Ingalls Lake and we filled up all our water bladders and topped off all the bottles. The weather was great, sunny with a nice chill and breeze. Gusting up to 20ish had us wondering about the wind on the route that was predicted to be in the 20s the next day with clouds and a slight chance of precip. We decided it was worth taking the chance and moved on to the base of the climb. Navigating up the gullys was straight forward. Then we got to a choice of going up a low 5th chimney/gully or around to the left. 3 of us soloed up the chimney which only had one burly overhangy move. We dropped down a line for one person to belay them up that move. From here looking over at Long John Tower looked pretty intimidating. We pulled out the photos with the hand drawn route options for the 5th class option or the 4th class option and neither looked appealing. We heard enough about the 5th class option being very awkward that we decided to scramble up the 4th class. We picked out our route from a distance and headed that way. Fairly quickly after the 3rd class approach it gets your attention. We all headed up a long straight narrow gulley feature on the right, but we didn’t know if it would connect back over left at the top. Two of us about halfway up found what we figured was the “exposed airy traverse” and yea, its exposed and airy but the finger crack and foot holds were solid. From there we could see that the gulley the others were still in had a walk across to where we were. Kashan continued to the top and set an anchor and dropped a line to belay up Rodica the last half since it was getting very steep and exposed with some burly moves and high steps. A short 3rd class scramble from there and we were over the hump and past Long John Tower looking across at the rest of the terrain we had to cross to get to the West Ridge Notch. It was about 3:30pm and we were about 9 hours into the trip. We figured we had plenty of time to continue on and find the bivvy sites closer to the West Ridge Notch. We easily found the Dog move and got around the overhanging ledge and into the next gully. Eventually we were spending some time consulting the GPS tracks, printed beta and a hand drawn topo map trying to figure out which ledge, which sandy patch, which gully, which hash tag on the map was which. We had tracks that seemed to go up to a higher route and tracks dropping hundreds of feet and going around a buttress lower. After a bit we then spotted a line of cairns that went straight across splitting the difference and decided to take that path. That route seemed to be not as travelled since we were on some fairly lichen covered rocks at times making our way from cairn to cairn and it was some very exposed 4th class scrambling in some sections but fairly easy with big holds and wide enough ledges. We wound up skipping the entire upper route and the features such as the Tunnel underfoot, the rock you climb through, the upper bivvy sites (which we wanted to hit) but it also meant we didn’t have to descent hundreds of feet down a crappy loose gulley then ascend the next crappy loose gulley. Once across we had a straight shot up to the West Ridge Notch. The whole section from LJT to the West Ridge Notch took about 3 hours. Now it was 6:30pm and we needed to find the bivvy spots. Since were at the base of the climb little did we know if we scrambled up a little bit from the notch we would have found a site we probably could have squeezed all 4 of us on, but it would have been very windy and maybe a little too cozy. We dropped back down the gully maybe 200ft and around the tower with the balanced rock, up just a little bit to the notch and found a line of bivvy sites right around 9000ft and hunkered down for the night with an awesome sunset. Up the next morning at 6am to blue sky and not a lick of wind we lucked out on the weather forecast and we were back on our way to the Notch at 7am. We started the climbing around 8am after scrambling up to the base of the first pitch and finding the spot where we needed to traverse out then back up around the spire at the base. Since there is a bit of a downclimb from there we setup belays at the top to reduce rope drag then scrambled down to the base of the 2nd pitch. From the base of the 2nd pitch Rodica led off and went straight up the right-hand side which had a burly overhangy move at the top while Andy went up the left-hand side and everyone grouped up on the ledge. From there we had to look around for where to go next. It looked like there was some worn down surface on the right-hand side where it was a slabby move with a wide crack up against a wall. There is a nice pinch point for a sling and a bomber anchor to make the committing move up. And that turned out to be the spot that put us right at the next downclimb to another bivvy spot and belay for the next pitch. From the base of the 3rd pitch we had a nice photo from beta we got from some friends that showed we needed to do a zig zag move going straight up, over a large block then right then up another section to the next belay ledge. This was some bad rope drag, so splitting this pitch into 2 would have been preferable which is what Andy and Khrum did. From the base of the 4th pitch we had all grouped up and after consulting the beta decided the route was to go up little bit then traverse around the base of a large square spire (which I think is also the move referred to as the “belly flop”) which wasn’t hard, just a bit awkward. From there it was easy scrambling up and to the right around a corner to the crux section which has a fixed piton at the burly overhangy move, preceded by another burly pullup/mantle move onto a nice flat alcove where you can reach up and clip the piton. Its easy once past that move to a nice belay ledge. We stopped here as it was a good spot to haul up someone’s pack if they wanted to make the burly move at the piton easier. From there the next pitch was just an easy scramble to the summit block where we ran into groups all coming up from every direction. All in all it took about 5 hours for the four of us to do the climb from the West Ridge Notch to the summit where we topped out around 1pm-ish. Then it came time for the long 6000ft descent (~4500ft down to the creek, another ~1300ft up to Longs Pass, then ~1500ft down to the trailhead). We took some time to soak our feet and refill some water in the creek. The 4L each we filled up at Ingalls Lake got us all the way down to the creek the next day without running short. 3L probably would have worked but we would have had to melt some snow field after the summit. And if it had been a really hot and sweaty 2-days 4L might not have been enough. We found 1 tiny remnant of snow on the route that was literally 2ft by 6inches and was probably already melted by the next day. This is a climb you really need to have some experience and comfort with exposed scrambling and be prepared with route beta and take your time to get your route right. It would be pretty easy to get off route just winging it and getting into terrain you might not be ready for. And we already know someone who spent 2-days off route on the West Ridge getting into 5.9 territory they weren’t prepared for. Got back to the cars about 12hrs after having left the bivvy site. Turned out that was a great split for the 2-day carryover trip. About 12hrs each day using the 9000ft bivvy sites. Gear Notes: Light alpine rack (.3 to #2, nuts), 40m rope, 4L water each Approach Notes: Nothing new I could add to the normal approach beta other than there are no water sources after Ingalls Lake till the descent from the summit.
  9. chucK has passed away

    I first met Chuck in 2001 in the Blue Lake parking lot, waiting out a rainstorm. We didn't do a lot of trips together, but the ones we did were good ones. Here he is on the North Ridge of Sherpa in July (Ken Ford photo), leading what we thought was the crux. He was a great guy; so sad that he's gone.
  10. North Ridge of Baker

    On reviewing my photos from Skyline Divide yesterday, a party of two climbed it yesterday. The climbers are visible in the photo below as a dark dot above the NR cliff. If you were in that team of two, please get in touch for a few more photos: charlie@charliehagedorn.com
  11. North Ridge of Baker

    from 8/15 so not that long ago but things do change quickly. One thing to note that may not be in the below report as it is expected that most guides know this already as it a situation that has been around for a month or so now. There is a large crevasse running end to end (may be the 8800 crack in report below) on the coleman glacier which would be your decent route. Wont see it on the way up. End running it to the east or west will put you into potential ice fall danger from baker or colfax. either run quickly through there or some have been rappeling off of some fixed pickets. No idea if that is still accurate. Should be exciting! Hey Crew, Just wrapped up a 1:1 summit day on a 3 day North Ridge with Mountain Madness. We are camped at the hogsback and figured I'd spend some tent time sharing conditions. The slope immediately above the hogsback is now a combination of recently glaciated terrain and dry glacier, making travel in the dark slow. We took the standard ascent to the football field that you would for the CD, thinking that this would help us avoid some shenanigans on the low traverse but in retrospect, I don't believe we gained any time by doing so. On the descent we went hard skiers left and managed to stay on a combination of snow and dry glacier with only a few short sections of loose 3rd to link everything together. The 6600 traverse is holding strong but Jeff's words from late July are certainly still true. There are several spots that require exposed movement on dry glacial fins that are a little sporty. I personaly wouldn't want to be in there with a guest that's not solid on their feet right now. Running water is available in one spot early on, moving across the Coleman but I did not encounter any after that. Once on the route, a friendly boot pack allowed for short roping almost all the way to the ice step, requiring just one short pitch to the the right side of the nose. The exit straight up is still holding strong, above which there was a track heading to a bridge that is about to collapse. We managed to gain the summit plateau a few hundred feet climbers left of this bridge but you will likely need to end run the whole crack within the next week or two. The 8800 crack has a super solid rap anchor above it and a 60 left us ample rope to spare. There is also enough room to comfortably stage pre rigged guest between the anchor and the lip. Thanks to whoever put that in! Colfax has been shedding nicely, I'm attaching a photo. We opted to move through the debris and it took about 5 minutes total with a strong guest. The firn line is creeping up fast and starting to expose some of the slope above the football field. Ignore the straight line at the beginning of my track, my phone was still in battery saver mode. Let me know if you have questions.
  12. North Ridge of Baker

    it has been getting climbed pretty often by the guide services. reports from them have been making it sound good. I will try to find the recent one and give it to you here.
  13. North Ridge of Baker

    It's been awhile since I have been on this site but live in NorCal now. Planning a trip up to Washington next week. Wondering if the NR on Baker is in. I've climbed it in August before but haven't seen any recent TR's. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
  14. chucK has passed away

    Damn. I saw him at Darrington just a month ago. Here he is in Darrington fifteen years ago:
  15. Yesterday
  16. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    How is the investigation going? Pretty weird to have a bunch of shit to say in the first 24 hours, and a complete silence for 7 days after.
  17. chucK has passed away

    Somewhere near Beaver Lake on a "trip" to play in the snow, about 20 years ago. I am sure he still has that t-shirt and probably still has those pants.
  18. [TR] Mt Logan - Fremont Glacier 08/04/2019

    Fun hike. Would be a good solo @Alisse
  19. Mt Goode lost tentpoles

    Maybe if you post a TR (with lots of pretty pics) more will see your lost and found request?
  20. Thanks @wayne, glad you liked it. We had more than a bit of time at Frenzel camp to contemplate your mind melting ascent of Mongo Ridge. So rad, and so out there, and so scary! It will stand the test of time no doubt, maybe even more audacious than those mythical Doorish routes.
  21. Nice report, I didn't sign registers much back then. what great memories your trip will be for you and your friends!
  22. Last week
  23. Mt Goode lost tentpoles

    Hey there,On Aug 5th myself and a buddy topped out Mt Goode after climbing the NE buttress. Unfortunately on the next day some tentpoles and a ground cloth came off my backpack, probably just below the SW couloir. They are in a small, moss green sack and I sure would love to have them back! I didn't notice they'd come off until waaaaay further down the mountain. Beers and huge good karma await you as a reward!Thanks and have fun up there;)Will
  24. Stellar work.. thanks for sharing.. I can never see enough photos from Frenzel camp.. or Pickett Pass... tho I'll never get there myself.. they are basically some of my favorite places on this earth...
  25. lost Lost Iphone 7 plus

    Hey there! I lost my Iphone 7 plus while backpacking in Sisters, Oregon. Could have been anywhere between Camp Lake to the PCT Junction near Reese Lake. Black Phone with a clear case and blue border. There are several photos of myself and friends on the back. If found, email me at nelson@sonoma.edu
  26. Slesse Crossover Descent Landslide

    This is my favorite.
  27. Summer skiing

    A couple of weeks ago now, but the Eliot glacier had pretty good July turns!
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