The Cascades offer an amazing array of options when it comes to different mountain sports. And Spring is the..
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Toprope soloing is the fastest and easiest way to maximize climbing with limited time at the crag. This week I..
Stop going cragging. It’s an inefficient and overly-elaborate process if your primary goal when heading to the cliff is to..
Have you ever come up short on a rappel when you remember that you’d managed to make it before? How..
I’d like to start this article by just mentioning a thing or two about my intention in writing it. I..
As climbers and climbing-gear buyers, we are accustomed to wading through marketing claims, weeding out hearsay, and determining the facts..
Unlike ropes, shoes, and harnesses, our climbing protection will last through years of use and abuse. I still regularly climb..
The northwest climbing community experienced a string of tragic accidents in September of 2014, when three veteran climbers were killed..
While climbing do you often feel irritable, moody, or wracked with pain and uncomfortable pressure in your crotch and lower..
Six common pieces of gear and why you’re better off leaving them behind.
Blake Herrington rappels in the Mendenhall Towers, Alaska. He and partner constructed this rappel line and each rappelled it 3 times in the course of a week, using just 6mm cord and no rappel rings.
Backpackers cut the handles off their toothbrushes to save weight. Alpinist just don’t brush. But while we meticulously save grams for multi-day trips, many of us carry far too much gear around on our harnesses for a day at the crag, attempting a hard lead, or an afternoon of multi-pitching. Before leaving the car or tieing into the rope, analyze your gear and strip off the items that aren’t vital. You’ll climb harder and have more fun.
- [TR] Mt Hood - Cathedral Ramp - FA 04/17/2021 April 18, 2021Trip: Mt Hood - Cathedral Ramp - FA Trip Date: 04/17/2021 Trip Report: Today a group of us (@Nolan E Arson, @ktarry, @The Real Nick Sweeney) did what we believe is the first ascent of Cathedral Ramp off of the Eliot glacier. Of course I’m half-expecting someone to show up and post photos of a […]
- [TR] Wyeast (Mt. Hood) - Linkup 04/11/2021 April 12, 2021Trip: Wyeast (Mt. Hood) - Linkup Trip Date: 04/11/2021 Trip Report: Hood Headwalls: For a long time I've been thinking about linking a route on each of Wy'east's 6 headwalls in a day. Black Spider, North Face, Eliot Headwall, Sandy Headwall, Reid Headwall and DKH. I gave it a shot today and got 5/6. I […]
- [TR] Broken Top - Full Richardson 04/05/2021 April 6, 2021Trip: Broken Top - Full Richardson Trip Date: 04/05/2021 Trip Report: Yesterday my partner Artem and I got up close and personal with the slog to climb ratio in the Three Sisters. Spoiler alert: it was worth it. I’d soloed the North Buttress of Broken Top the week before and had seen the Full Richardson […]
- [TR] Mt Hood - DKH- Elliot HW linkup 04/03/2021 April 4, 2021Trip: Mt Hood - DKH- Elliot HW linkup Trip Date: 04/03/2021 Trip Report: Unable to secure a partner for Saturday, I opted for some soloing on Hood over the less preferable slog-to-climb ratio in the Three Sisters. Drove up from Bend at 3am and was skinning by 5 from Timberline. Ok skinning to Palmer, complete […]
- [TR] Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) 04/02/2021 April 4, 2021Trip: Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall (4/2/21) DKH Trip Date: 04/02/2021 Trip Report: Climbed on 4/2/21, very solid climbing conditions. Not "super fat", but still very possible to get good sticks and place screws and protect without any rock gear or pins. Full trip report: http://gethighonaltitude.com/2021/04/03/mt-hood-the-devils-kitchen-headwall/ Gear Notes: Screws, pickets Approach Notes: South side, […]