Hardware Part III – Other Important Gear Backpacks A large backpack with an internal frame is appropriate for an approach,..
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Ice Tools and Crampons Almost any climb that will pique the interest of a modern alpinist will require two ice..
Protection Cams On big alpine routes, where weight matters more than anywhere else, one might think that hexes and tricams..
Bivy Tents For basecamp use many styles and sizes of tents are suitable, but while on a route bivy tents..
One Rope When deciding which rope or ropes to bring on a climb, the first decision needs to be whether..
White Gas Stoves By far the biggest boon of white gas is that a white gas stove burns efficiently in..
Editors note: This article is a little dated (it was written in 2007), so you can trust that Colin’s equipment..
- [TR] Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 04/05/2019 April 13, 2019Trip: Mt Stuart - Stuart Glacier CouloirTrip Date: 04/05/2019 There is no bergschrund, the ice pitches are so minor that we barely slowed down. The top West ridge was full value, ice & mixed conditions were fantastic with cracks open to take gear, but accumulation in the backs of cracks in the top pitches making […]
- [TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple couloirs 03/31/2019 April 4, 2019Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple couloirs Trip Date: 03/31/2019 Trip Report: This last weekend a friend and I climbed TC's on Dragontail peak over two days. Ski'd in to and out of Colchuck Lake on the approach, continuous snow coverage on the road in the first day but on the way out on the second […]
- Little Yoho Valley Snow conditions? April 2, 2019Wondering if anyone has up to date info on snow depth in the Little Yoho, specifically if the road is still covered or has bare areas? Going to Stanley Mitchell Sunday, if possible. Thanks for any info!
- [TR] Snoqualmonix - Pineapple Express 03/30/2019 April 2, 2019Trip: Snoqualmonix - Pineapple Express Trip Date: 03/30/2019 Trip Report: Another lap on it w/ Rolf. Thinnish ice down low but well adhered to the rock and more quantity than expected. The upper NYG pitch was quite dry. Still a very fun outing for this late in the season. It was a GroundUp-TeamFree-SmashAnGrab redpoint our […]
- Mt. Stuart climbs FROM Core Zone? (Edit: Or Colchuck!) April 1, 2019Edit: Did a little more research, and while it's AWESOME that I get to stay in any of the zones, I'm thinking that Core Zone and Stuart climb in this one trip might be a bit ambitious. I'll schedule a Stuart climb, likely from the south, at another time... So, advice on getting to Colchuck […]