China Bend - Several 10/13/2007
Trip: China Bend - Several
Date: 10/13/2007
Trip Report:Team Spokane, and Team Gay met at 8AM at team Gay headquarters (My house. And no, we're not really gay, that's just what Team Green (They enjoy the wacky tabaccky) calls us so don't go trying to sign us up for gay chatlines and stuff. Keep your rainbow flags and pink triangles to yourself. If I catch you trying to pinch my butt at Smith Rocks next time I see you there will be a war, Okay?). Team Pullman was already at the cliff. They spent the night after bouldering at Liberty Park on Friday. They were very motivated.
After our alpine start, and grocery store stops we got to the crag at about 11AM. Why so late? Well picking the proper selection of energy drinks and crag goodies takes time. Also the Kettle River bridge is out and now it takes a little longer drive to the cliff.
A typical start of the day, Team Spokane member John Keene warming up on Pork Sausage, 11b. Everybody loves Pork in the morning
Team Gay member Marty Bland hasn't been climbing lately but did step up and warm up on A River Runs Through it, 11c. If you study the photo, you will notice an absolute lack of any muscle definition what so ever. Very sad conditioning.
Even more disturbing perhaps, is the attentiveness of his fellow team member and belayer in this photo.
At any rate the day progressed and got a bit cloudy, which was good for sending. Team Gay member Bryan starting up his current project, Evil Betty, 13a
He was not a success on this trip and will return to face this enduro, pumpfest in the future, where he will likely crush this monstrosity of a route.
Mike Boccino, of Team Pullman was succesful. Here he is sending Game Warden, 12d
Perhaps the highlight of the day was Team Spokane's Johnny Goicoccea,(sp but I can't ever even hope to spell that guys name anyway) and his near ascent of the Overoptimistic Local 14a. He'd been working it and this was the day to send, especially when the clouds rolled in and cooled the temps. He started the route, made it through the crux, but on the easy terrain at the chains, he broke a hold and was off. Couple photo's:
The crux set up:
And the crux sloper stick. You know its a bad hold when you can see the top of it and you're standing on the ground.
At any rate, there was some sun, great sports action, and sore shoulders at the end of the day. It doesn't get any better.
