Wedge Mt in a day - Classic/north arete 7/12/2008

Posted By: Bigtree in British Columbia/Canada

Trip: Wedge Mt in a day - Classic/north-east arete

Date: 7/12/2008

Trip Report:
After 3 previous attempts I finally tagged the summit of Wedge Mt via Classic route along entire north-east arete. Had some great company, stellar weather and good snow/ice conditions.

Approach to arete via Weart-Wedge col:



North-west face of Wedge Mt:



Entire north arete:



Arete from up top:



Descent via west ice fall:



Route map/topo:



Gear Notes:
- Rope.
- Std glacier travel gear.

Approach Notes:
- Left trail-head (~ 2 500') at midnight Saturday July 12.
- 3 hrs to hut at Wedgemont Lake.
- Short break for tea at lake,
- Ascended via Wedge-Weart col/north-east arete.
- On summit (~ 9 527') at 8:40 am.
- Descended via ice fall on west side (some crevasse and falling serac hazards at ice fall).
- Back to car by 4:30 pm after some lounging at hut.
- Total elevation gain/loss 14 000' (~ 7 000' each way).
- Total distance 14.6 miles.
- View from the summit - spectacular.


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