Shuksan - Suphide/SE Rib Variation 7/1/2009
Trip: Shuksan - Suphide/SE Rib Variation
The things I like about alpine rock. Its not snow! The slower pace and pure enjoyment. The communication between partners. The exposure! The smell of the rope when repelling. (Yeah I know I am weird) listening to gear clang around as your working your way up. The concentration and focus it takes. I could go on but won’t torture you all.
BirdDog and I got together for a very fun climb of Shuksan. A few weeks ago he mentions Shuksan in an e-mail and I jumped all over it. I have never wanted to do the steep gully snow slog. Its enough of a snow slog on the Sulphide that I wanted to try out the SE rib route. Most of the route is exposed class 4 and can be simu climbed, but I wanted to work on my rope and multi pitch skills ( I am hoping to tag more alpine rock summits this year.) Plus the thought of pitching off without a belay just didn’t thrill me.
We left camp along with the only other 2 parties on the peak. The other 2 parties took the gully. One of the parties of 3 we camped with. They are good folks so I took some shots of them and figured we would send it via e-mail. I love meeting other climbers out there! Climbers rock!
We mounted the rib just above the first large notch. That was the hardest move of the entire climb. Low class 5. The rock is really good, I was surprised how good it was. Several pitches later and tons of fun we are on the summit. I have no words to describe how happy I was feeling. It has been a dream and a lot of hard work getting into Alpine rock and now I am HOOKED!!!! Pickets here I come!!
A few repels and we were off. There are at least 3-4 rap stations through the gully The third rap station cannot be reached so one must scramble down to it on exposed class 3. All Have solid, good webbing.
We wrapped up a perfect trip with the long slog across The sulphide. Bridges are thin and I was able to easily tap them and it just collapsed. All can be skirted around VERY easy but figured I would let ya all know its that time of year
Its great when all falls into place a trip works so well. I want to thank BirdDog for being a great partner and leading the rib. Thanks for a great trip!!!
Gear Notes:small set of nuts
webbing for slinging horns
we used twin 30m alpine rope.
crampons and ice axe
Approach Notes:Crevasses are easily skirted, but the bridges are THIN!
Snow starts just below Shannon ridge proper.
Traverse is melting out.
There is a great melted out camp with running water around 6200' or so.
