Mt Rainier - Kautz Glacier 7/16/2008
Trip: Mt Rainier - Kautz Glacier
Date: 7/16/2008
Trip Report:Brian and I left Paradise about 7:00pm on Monday the 13th. We hit the trail towards glacier vista and found a bivy site on a lateral moraine of the lower Nisqually near Pebble Creek. We crossed the Nisqually and the lower Wilson uneventfully to gain the turtle snowfield. The snow was soft, no crampons needed. The slog up the Turtle was hot. With plenty of water in hand, my pack would have been much lighter if I had known there was so much water available. (plenty of H2O all the way to Camp Hazard)
Above the Turtle, we veered west and found a fixed line set up for a shot rappel to gain the Kautz. Determined to check out Camp Hazard, we skirted on the west side of Wapowety Cleaver keeping a close eye and ear on the seracs of the Kautz ice cliff. They were making some noise and we knew we were not in the best spot. Some chossy 4th class scrambling led us up to Hazard. I was surprised to see so little in the way of wind-breaks but in hindsight, I understand why. We found a sweet spot and built a nice break with all the available rocks. Just as our hard work was about to be enjoyed with some food and a nap, a big old serac was telling us it was about to go. I pulled out my camera, flipped it to video and hit record just as the it let go. HOLEY SHIT! That was one of the most impressive things I have had the privilege to witness. Brian yelled “ROCK” J and we stood in awe and watched. Once the adrenaline was out of our systems, we took a good close look at the mother-load of ice hanging over us and we packed up and headed down.
We found a great bunker about 50 meters from the rappel and settled in for one of the best bivy night sleeps I have had.
With a 2:00am start, we were crossing the ice chunder under the light of a very impressive moon. A couple of hundred meters up the kautz, we lost the ski poles for our second tools. Travel was fairly quick and negotiating the crevasses was doable. The snow came to an end and I found myself on a 60ft pitch of steep glacier ice. You know the kind, you hit it with your axe and hear the sketchy sound of compressed ice pop of into dinner plates to rain down on your partner. I got a screw in near the top of the nasty pitch while Brian and I simul climbed until I could get a decent anchor in to belay him up. (thinking back on it, I would have like a couple more screws in that pitch)
Negotiating the glacier above the Ice Chute was reasonable. I was very happy the freezing level was low. There were a couple of time our axes would plunge to the head and reveal the nasty darkness below. We climbed west of the route and reached point success at 8:00am. Another hour of easy travel led us to Columbia Crest for a couple of photos and memories of a great accent.
We followed the great wand high-way down to Muir sweating balls and in culture shock with the crowds. There were some guides kicking it at their hut blasting “Two Joints” by Sublime on the radio. Just what I would want to hear coming from the guys I have paid top dollar to drag me up the “BIG DOG”. But that is all I will say about that.
It was a great climb! I have some pics to post if someone would be kind enough to help out. I did get the Ice Avalanche posted on you tube “Kautz Ice Cliff” check it out.
Cheers,
Ben
