Mount Index - Traverse 7/12/2008
Trip: Mount Index - Solo Traverse
Date: 7/12/2008
Trip Report:Any fellow who wants to climb the North Face of Mt. Index North Peak or to do the traverse of the mountain should go now! I was up there yesterday (Saturday, July 12) and I found perfect conditions, that is: dry rock throughout and lots of snow along the traverse (for getting water) and in the descent gully (quite firm despite the high temperatures).
This was a solo climb completed in 12:40 car-to-car (9:00AM - 9:40PM). No use of rope was made except for hauling my back pack up the short pitch out of the notch between the North and the Main Peaks. No rappel was made either, the down-climbing from the North Peak to the notch took some searching and a fair amount of 5.6 (and easier) down-climbing on shitty exposed rock. You know how it is there: every piece of rock that you touch and it's loose and goes down the steep gully shows you the way that your body will take if you slip...
The quality of the route is not super great but the grandeur and ruggedness of the terrain is unequaled for the size of the mountain.
Here is a link to some cool pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Doribex/IndexGear Notes:Carrying crampons is not necessary if temperatures stay high. Boot skiing down the descent gully is awesomely fast. A light ice-axe recommended for the descent. I had a medium rack (nuts and cams to 3'') plus a 6.5mm 70m rappel cord and a 20m single rope. From all these only the cord was used to haul the back pack in that one steep pitch. In case a retreat is needed though one must have plenty of slings and rappel rings plus the rope and a small rack. A 2 litter water bottle and a soft funnel (cut half a small plastic bottle) to help with getting water from the rocks.
Approach Notes:1:30 from the car to the start of the climb.
2:30 from the top of Main Peak back to the car.
8:40 of climbing (stops included).
