Beacon Rawk - Windsurfer/Pipedream 9/1/2008
Trip: Beacon Rawk - Windsurfer/Pipedream
Date: 9/1/2008
Trip Report:great day at the big b - taste of fall in the air - lotza folks in the house - jimmy o and fighting the Man - warmed up on little wing n' jills - first time climbing w/ moof, a good guy and hella patient! spent far too much time laying seige to pipedream - pulled the first pin on the traverse off the ledge out w/ my fingers, just by touching it - the next next pin and 1/4 inch bolt held, but rightly belong in the goddamn smithsonian
pipedream took a long, long time as an aid climb - typical beacon story for a route that hasn's seen traffic in god knows how long - lots of gardening and cleanign and now i'm blind - 160 feet is a looooong pitch - it's all clean now 'cept a giant blackberry bush just below the less-than-inspiring anchor (get at it joe!) - i was frustrated the last 10 feet as i was out of bigish gear and was contending w/ the demon bush and a sloping ledge that was 120% 1000 year old fern - my one fall on the route came 3 feet below the anchor - a nut blew as i aided through the thorns and i took a nice long ride of 30 feet or more - enjoyed getting to free climb back through that section, which would be classic if it wasn't such a motherfucker to get to - eschewed the topout to the trail and did a double rope rap back to the anchor at windsurfer
my first time using hooks! the giant eagle talon worked great as both a cleaning tool and sod-sticker.
a fantastic end to my summer and now it's back to school in the morning, but at least i didn't spend all day dreading it!
my carharts resembled a dali painting by days end from the kaladioscope of lichen colors
nature hate crime again!
and will the complete stepphenwulf fall by my gumby hands on saturday? time will tell...
Gear Notes:x3 .5, .75, 1, 2
x2 3
lotza brassies (key)
x3 aliens
x2 sets of nuts
Approach Notes:moist
