Jason Griffith

Arcteryx Alpha Comp Hoody & Pants Review by Jenny Abegg

Let me first state the obvious: last year’s winter (2013/2014) in the Pacific Northwest was a bizarre one. In December we had uncharacteristically cold, dry weather, giving all of Seattle’s ice climbers a chance to play in their own backyard for a few weeks. January and February turned balmy, the ice disappeared, and skiers started thinking about picking up a new hobby. And then at the end of February, the clouds let loose, finally, dumping feet of snow in the [...]

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Patagonia M10 Shell Jacket Review by Dave Burdick

The Patagonia M10 jacket is their lightest waterproof/breathable hardshell. My production version of the jacket, in size Medium, weighs in at just under 8 ounces (221g) and packs down into its own pocket making it about the size of a softball. While the M10 is mainly marketed as a streamlined alpine climbing jacket, I think the light weight and versatility of the piece should make it popular for a variety of uses. With such a small and light shell, it [...]

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Arcteryx Nuclei Hoody Review by Dave Burdick

The moment I picked up the Arc’teryx Nuclei hoody, I realized that Arcteryx had made my other belay jackets obsolete. And I have a lot of belay jackets. For my uses, which are mainly alpine climbing and backcountry skiing, the value of a belay jacket primarily comes down to the numbers: how warm it is, and how much it weighs. To cut to the chase, what is special about this jacket is that Arcteryx put an 80g/m2 insulated body and 60g/m2 insulated [...]

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Synthetic Insulated Jacket Layering Review by Dane Burns

The typical question: “I will climb Rainer this summer…next Orizaba, Kili, then Aconcagua! What do I need for clothes?” Here are some thoughts on a well proven “systems approach” that you may have not had. It is a multilayer and multi use cold weather system based at least two garments. One garment with 60g insulation (part of your “action suit”) and the another with 100g insulation. (your “belay jacket”) The bench mark Patagonia DAS belay jacket is 170g insulation by [...]

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