danhelmstadter Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 (edited) Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge Date: 10/20/2010 Trip Report: I got up to Prusik, and climbed the west ridge solo yesterday (what a place!). I self belayed the slab pitch, as well as the final pitch -- which I thought was harder than the "slab crux", but didn't use the rope on the other pitches. It took a long time, 20+ hours... which I blame on my heavy pack (I toeted way more gear than was nessecary). The area is incredibly bueatiful, and it was cool to cross the highlands back to asssuck pass in dusk fadeing to moonlight. I'd like to return and do the south face of Prusik sometime soon - it looks really cool. Tuesday evening as I was about to settle down to a few hours of shuteye at the stuart lake trailhead before heading off for prusik -- Hannah and Amar popped out of the trail, they had just done the snowcreek trail loop and were thinking they were going to have to hoof it back to the snowcreek th, but I was able to give them a ride, then on the way back up to the stuart lake trailhead, I picked up a family of three, who had done the loop in opposite direction, and I shuttled them up to their car at the stuart lake th, always nice to start a trip with good karma. Edited October 21, 2010 by danhelmstadter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Impressive, nice job man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Look like fun, nice work! And nice pants! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Hell yeah. Wasn't sure you'd make it with all that stuff you were bringing. Good workout, amazing route. I was thinking about doing that again today but I think I've had enough of that hike for the year until it gets covered in snow. Funny shuttle story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Strong work, Dan! You are becoming the same badass on rock as you on skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Perhaps the first solo ascent of Prussik Peak in pajama pants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 That is cool! I've been thinking about doing that. Tell me how the self belay worked. How long was your rope and what diameter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Nice Pants btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Fun stuff Dan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Nice Pants btw climbing in your pj's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhelmstadter Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Ed, i used a grigri with a 10.2 60meter, the grigri didn't feed all that smoothly, so i ended up just stopping to feed out slack every 5 or 10 feet, then i built a good anchor and rapped down, cleaned the gear and climbed back up on toprope with mini traxions. yeah the pjs are kind of silly, function over fashion i guess, though you'll never catch me in spandex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Way to get out and get some while the weather held and thx for pics. You certainly made it look like a great day trip. Have you done the W ridge of Stuart? If so how does this route compare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 beckey used to wear pajamas on the glaciers when he was a teenager Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Right on, Dan - I was wondering how your climb went. Thanks again for the ride, you saved the day for us. Come to Seattle so we can buy you a pitcher (or two)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaucho Argentino Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 Bad Ass, Dude !! You used a gri-gri... Why not to go up with a prusik? I'm trying to get into the technical-solo climbing, but still learning. Feedback is appreciated. Kudos ! Gaucho A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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