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#967521 - 07/06/10 12:42 PM [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2566
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir

Date: 7/6/2010

Trip Report:
Kyle Flick and I climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir yesterday car-to-car. It was the first time for each of us since 2005. As expected from the recent TR, we found the route to be in great condition for this late in the season. The couloir itself had a fair bit of ice and neve-ish snow, after approaching over a breakable crust near the 'schrund. The ridge was rimey and fun mixed action. The route will probably be out of condition really soon due to the increasing temps, but it was cool in the shade and may last another week or so.

pictures can do the rest:






Kyle clears the Stuart 'schrund


looking up the couloir


taking it to the ridge


on the West Ridge


on the north side


Pulling the crux


on the last pitch


The Sherpa 'schrund.


outta here!


Gear Notes:
.3 camalot, .5 camalot, #1 trango max cam, 6 stoppers, 1x 16cm screw, 25m 8.1mm rope.

bootied two pickets on the Sherpa, but we caught the owners on the trail and gave 'em back.

Approach Notes:
in via Stuart Lake Trail, out via mountaineer Creek
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#967536 - 07/06/10 01:27 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: kurthicks]
JasonG Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/12/00
Posts: 2621
TRs: 99 Photos: 1575
Loc: Mount Vernon
Nice work Kurt! Hard to believe it's been five years, eh? I have fond memories of that climb- esp. Juan saying "you get the cruxes- I have kids." Now, two kids later, I get it.

Hopefully we'll get out together in the hills again one of these days . . .

JG
_________________________
<><

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#967545 - 07/06/10 01:48 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: kurthicks]
YocumRidge Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 1248
TRs: 46 Photos: 647
Loc: PDX
What a sweet line! tup

What the mixed section goes at? M3-4?
_________________________
"Dragged by the force of some inner tide" ~ David Gilmour

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#967553 - 07/06/10 02:15 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: YocumRidge]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2566
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
M-easy. snowy and cold rock that is 5.6 in the summer.
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#967562 - 07/06/10 02:52 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: kurthicks]
stevetimetravlr Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 07/29/08
Posts: 1725
TRs: 2 Photos: 268
Loc: Washington
Perfecto.

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#967588 - 07/06/10 05:08 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: stevetimetravlr]
goatboy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/01
Posts: 1929
TRs: 33 Photos: 376
Loc: Waiting for high pressure
Nice work, Kurt! Great pics. Man, the couloir itself looks splendid. The rimed rock? Not so sure.
_________________________
_____________________________
Falling!

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#967607 - 07/06/10 06:20 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: goatboy]
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1660
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
Nice TR and effort you guys!
_________________________
"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

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#967670 - 07/07/10 06:52 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: telemarker]
kevino Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/07
Posts: 1749
TRs: 31 Photos: 57
Loc: soon to be montana
I just want to point out how awesome the picture is of you climbed rimed rock with ice tools and barehanded...in july. Don't see that too often in washington!

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#967695 - 07/07/10 10:07 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: kevino]
Juan Sharp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 58
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Man did I really say that Jason? What a chicken I am. I do have a picture of you on my gear room wall leading the cruxy block move on the north side. Such a gentleman you were. Your pal Juan

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#967706 - 07/07/10 10:50 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: Juan Sharp]
Kyle_Flick Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/00
Posts: 326
TRs: 19 Photos: 17
Loc: Cashmere,Washington,USA
Ah John you're sandbagging. While I wasn't there, we all know you've got the mental toughness to handle any situation and were more than capable of leading. You WERE the gentleman to hand over the lead. Besides...we lawyers have to stick together.

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#967785 - 07/07/10 07:35 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: Kyle_Flick]
AlpineMonkey Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 540
TRs: 29 Photos: 279
Looks good! How was the traverse on the N. Side? Your pics make it look harder then I remembered! tup

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#967797 - 07/07/10 08:25 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: AlpineMonkey]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2566
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
the traverse was my favorite pitch, although some of the rime had melted by the time we got there. The pitch had some 80+ degree snow, some hand jams, and lots of hooking. at one point I was jamming with one hand, camming a tool in the other, and stemming between snow and rock nubbins. stellar!
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#967804 - 07/07/10 08:59 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: Kyle_Flick]
zoroastr Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/02/00
Posts: 248
TRs: 40 Photos: 253
Loc: redmond, washington, USA
Amazing C2C effort...humbling. Thanx for sharing!
_________________________
Always be sincere--even if you don't mean it.
--Benny Hill

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#967807 - 07/07/10 09:07 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: zoroastr]
Pilchuck71 Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/26/09
Posts: 591
TRs: 12 Photos: 164
Loc: Bellingham, Washington
Yep, sweet!
Great pics and fantastic looking trip.
Good on ya, gentlemen.
Thanks for sharing.
_________________________
www.onemansmountainadventures.blogspot.com

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#967878 - 07/08/10 10:53 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: Pilchuck71]
t_rutl Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/24/08
Posts: 658
TRs: 13 Photos: 196
Loc: PNW
awesome Kurt, dig the shots!

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#968269 - 07/12/10 09:15 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir 7/5/2010 [Re: t_rutl]
Juan Sharp Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/07/09
Posts: 58
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Hey Kyle -- didn't they teach us to sandbag in law school? I'll track you down to catch up. My new e-mail is john@johnmsharp.com and the website is www.johnmsharp.com.

Later!

Juan

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