[TR] Buckner, Horseshoe - SW Slope 7/18/2009

[cartman]

Trip: Buckner, Horseshoe - SW Slope

 

Date: 7/18/2009

 

Trip Report:

 

I recruited Oyvind, Tobae and Jon K. to give these two peaks a go via Sahale Arm/Horseshoe Basin. Several guide books give the primary approach as the Stehekin Valley Trail then up into the basin, but the approach via the arm is probably easier routefinding and less problematic. We continued up the Arm in clear blue skies to one of the higher camps. On the way I came upon two rangers who said "There's the permit holder" and asked to see the permit. So make sure you get a permit, as on the way down the next day we came upon a fellow who had been evicted from Pelton Basin for not having one.

 

The route down is quite easy to find. Go east from the higher camps at 7600' ~100-200' down the moderately steep snow slope to the top of the SE-trending rib. Scramble the rib to ~6500', the last bit being a high class 3 downclimb to the top of the steep snow gully which leads left and down 100' into Horseshoe Basin. An alternative way down would be to go right from here down a steep grass/heather slope (don't slip) to a class 3 ledge which wraps left around the end of the rib past some old mining debris directly into the basin. We went down the gully and up the ledge on the return.

 

We crossed the basin at ~6500' using a good ledge system mostly on snow, gradually rising to a grassy promontory midway across. This could also be a good camp site if you wanted to carry all your gear down.

 

Here we discussed our next move. The obvious entry between the buttresses to gain Buckner's SW Slope looked steep and slick, and we weren't particularly keen on going up it and the long slope above let alone back down that way considering it would be a long way above a bad runout. We remembered that a previous trip had gone up a narrower gully above the higher buttress and Oyvind was pretty sure it would go, so he led up to it. It turned out to be an excellent choice; not long, steep but reasonable, leading to a better route up the slope to a pinnacle. Here we stashed our crampons and booted up to the loose summit rocks and onto the East Ridge, with a short scramble to the summit.

 

On to Horseshoe. We retraced our route down to the bottom of the gully--which was steep enough to downclimb facing in, but the snow was good--where we could take a nice direct traverse to the base of Horseshoe's summit pyramid.

 

A short bit up snow gained the SW Ridge. We scramble up into a large gully on the left side of the face to the prominent notch on Horseshoe's east side. Here the route goes left across a narrow ledge up to the cleft just below the summit. The perspective from the notch makes it look like you would have to go right from the cleft to reach the summit, but actually the summit is just to the left from the cleft. Oyvind led across the ledge, simply threaded the rope through the plentiful rappel slings, then recrossed the ledge to the belay point. No pro needed. Then he and Roald switched places, and Oyvind belayed each of us there and back. The ledge is narrow and a bit awkward to cross, but the pull-up move over the cleft is a fun exposed gymnastic move, slightly overhanging with bomber handholds.

 

After drying out and signing the register, we downclimbed to our packs and down into the basin a fair ways on talus, then good snow to the rib.

 

Oyvind had found the ledge on the way in, and it turned out to be an easier way up than upclimbing the steep gully would have been. Then up the rib and back to camp.

 

The wind had been blowing all day, but now it picked up considerably as a local cloud front moved overhead. The wind was strong enough to tear up the dark gray clouds passing over before they could coalesce long enough to drop any precip, but also made it rather cold at camp. So we all agreed to pack up and head out. Sahale Arm seemed very long after a long day and my fourth trip in eight days. Great to get out with everyone, and extra thanks to Oyvind for the excellent route choices.

 

Gear Notes:

Axe, crampons; harnesses, 35M 8.3mm rope for Horseshoe--may want a cam or two for the ledge

 

Approach Notes:

This time of year is ideal for this route. Later it will be unpleasant talus. Getting into the basin via the gully and back via the ledge worked very well.

Edited July 25, 2009 by cartman