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[TR] Torment-Forbidden - Traverse 7/15/2009


JasonG

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Trip: Torment-Forbidden - Traverse

 

Date: 7/15/2009

 

Trip Report:

Just a quick conditions update for those heading out in the next bit. The snow traverses are getting exciting for those with just aluminum crampons and a single axe. Some bare ice exposed and a lot of shallow sugary snow over ice. Pickets were useless, screws OK, but not great in the old neve. Otherwise the route is in great shape, just be prepared for snaffle battles at the bivy before the long snow traverse. We were surrounded by three! That's never happened to me before (usually only one at a time), my partner even had one jump off the wall and land fully on his face- Yikes! Another bummer was getting caught in a major newbie traffic jam on the west ridge, on a Wednesday no less. Oh well, still an awesome route with plenty of challenges to keep it interesting.

 

Gear Notes:

2 screws, medium rack to 2", single axe, aluminum crampons, picket (didn't use). Should have had rat traps.

 

Approach Notes:

BB trail to S. Ridge of Torment, descended down east ledges of Forbidden

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