jordansahls Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) Trip: Shuksan - NW Rib Date: 7/11/2009 Trip Report: Well, the weather report was a bit conflicted, but that didn't stop me and Stanislav from getting out. The original plan was to approach and camp Friday night on the top of the Fischer Chimneys, then climb the NE Rib and NW Arete on Saturday, then climb the NW Arayete on Sunday. Anyway, that didn't happen. We ended up just climbing the NW Rib in a day, which was enough in my opinion. All in all, it took us 17 hrs round trip. Enough with the boring details, here are some pics. chimney shinannigans Down climbing the Whinney's slide route (White Salmon Glacier?) sucked a fat one. Soft enough to ball up on your crampons, but hard enough to make plunge stepping a worthless proposition. Low on the Route Hanging glacier goodness High on the Route We spent a few minutes lounging on the top of the route, but eventually decided that a beer sounded really good, so we marched our asses down. We had spent about 4 hrs on the route. All in all, the climb is mostly a scramble with a fair amount of low 5th class interspersed throughout. With the exception of one 5.7 pitch (sorry, no pictures) we soloed the whole thing. Its a long route at 2000 feet from the base to the top.Not to much more to say, I thought it was a fun route but I don't think I will be going back to do it again any time soon. Gear Notes: Small stoppers and cams in the 1" to 2" range should do you just fine. However, the 5.7 pitch ate pieces into the 3" range, which I didn't expect for the type of rock we were on. Approach Notes: Approached via the Fischer Chimneys Edited July 21, 2009 by jordansahls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 Looks like the chimneys are pretty well free of snow. Yes? Alright getting up that with a full pack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Way to get off the beaten track. That's a route that's interested me for years. Doesn't sound like a major classic, anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted July 17, 2009 Author Share Posted July 17, 2009 Yeah, there is a little bit of snow in the Chimneys, but nothing that gets in the way. The packs weren't a big problem, annoying, but very manageable. The route is very interesting, but by no means is it a classic. I will say that the views and the vantage point are very distinct from most any other route I have climbed on Shuksan. If you have climbed most all of the other classics, this one is a good one to go do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 looks like fun, but isn't that the NW rib? Given that the hanging glacier looks to be on your left and the white salmon on the right? the NE Rib is to the climbers left of the North Face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Thanks for the correction, it is actually the NW Rib, my bad. I changed what I could in the body of the TR, but it seems that the title under the TR forum will stay as the NE rib, oops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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