[TR] Monte Cristo - N. Col 6/27/2009

[JasonG]

Trip: Monte Cristo - N. Col

 

Date: 6/27/2009

 

Trip Report:

A little dated, but there aren't many TRs in the database for this one. . . .

 

A couple of Saturdays ago, Tim and I got a leisurely start on the approach from Barlow pass, which is in pretty good shape. A log crossing over the Sauk added some interest.

 

 

From the old Monte Cristo townsite, you follow the good but steep trail to Glacier Basin and get a good look at the objective.

 

 

Like most parties, we approached via the obvious notch in the left skyline. Right now it is mostly snow covered all of the way, and is easy (if a bit steep in places) going up to the notch.

 

From the notch we traversed too far south to the gully described in Beckey. We encountered a bit of moat action and some 5.6ish rock, certainly a little more than we expected (we had traversed too far). Another party found a better way closer to the col that still had fifth class climbing but was much shorter(~30' total) and led to an easy ramp that could be scrambled to the summit. This option had fixed slings and a bolt, and should be easily visible as you traverse past. We thought that the moat looked too bad there, but didn't investigate closely- we should have. It was quite easy with a nice dry ledge to step onto and belay from. Either way, bring a small rack for roped climbing and don't expect to scramble the whole way to the summit.

 

Views were great, as was the descent- fast! I think it took us around 9 hrs RT including about an hour on the summit. It is a fun little day climb, with enough variety to make for a good day out.

 

Wilman's Spires from Glacier Basin

 

Glacier Basin from the summit

 

Pugh, Whitechuck, and Sloan from the summit

 

Tim at the North Col.

 

Gear Notes:

Bikes, axe, crampons, half rope, very small rack.

 

Approach Notes:

see above