[TR] Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm/Glacier 7/4/2009

[t_rutl]

Trip: Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm/Glacier

 

Date: 7/4/2009

 

Trip Report:

with a climbing partner just off PT for an ankle injury and a tenderfoot who's never worn a pack...due to it's rep for a moderate approach, great alpine views and straight forward snow and rock we decided to make a run up Sahale as a warm up for the roomie and intro for the newbie. plan was orginaly a day trip but decided to camp not knowing how both would take to the outing and to add to the experience...i'm a shutterbug so dont mind the pics

 

left the trailhead around 4:30 Friday afternoon...new guy was huffing and puffing so didnt roll into camp until after 9...with clear skies and a near full moon it was gonna be good!

 

 

route looks straight forward from the arm

 

 

set up shop, ate, prepped for the morn and hit the sack about 11...alarm buzzed at 1:30 and after some breakfast we were off about an hour later...i'm glad we made it an overnighter...the pain in the ass slush was now cooled to perfect cramponing conditions...we cruised across the "glacier" and up to the summit rocks well before sunrise...spent a few waiting for it to lighten up a bit soaking in the pre-dawn glow then headed up...great frozen stairmaster steps from the previous postholers led us up without travail

 

 

the rock was straight forward...opted for a more challenging line straight up the middle rather than attaining either ridge line...mostly class 4 with about three very short low-5th stints...stayed roped, simuled and slung a couple slings for the newbie's sake but he was a stud and did work...had the summit to ourselves an saw no others on route

 

the on the summit for a glorious sunrise...does it get any better??!!

 

 

roomie, me, newbie on a self timer shot

 

 

good 'ol "Boston Peak"

 

 

Glacier Peak & Rainier

 

 

Baker, Shuksan, Eldo, Forbidden

 

 

descent down the rocks was cake and the snow was still firm...even after spending an hour plus on the summit we were back to camp by 8:30

 

 

 

 

i think he's got a little captain in him?

 

 

brazen little food thieves...

 

 

then out for some whitewater rafting on the wenatchee with the girl!

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

crampons for early am cruising, axe for chasing marmots and making day hikers up cascade pass ask questions, iPod for the jog out, 30m glacier floss and a few slings/biners to give my buddy some confidence on his first shot out but you can easily get away w/o them

 

Approach Notes:

normal traffic up to cascade pass. small patch here and there but really is snow free up to the arm. running water just below the talus field climbing up to camp. good snow coverage right up to the summit rocks. i prefer a 2am start vs. sluff to the knees that and the solitude and sunrise cant be beat. pick a line up the rocks. some 3-4 lines...some 4 with fun little 5 moves...snow right now goes right up to the base of the good stuff...no scree...no talus