spotly Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Trip: The Tooth - Date: 5/30/2009 Trip Report: Carl and I took a couple of friends up to The Tooth Saturday for their first alpine multipitch rock climb. We started at 5:15 to avoid the hoards that we knew would surely arrive on such a fine day. The snow started at the trailhead but was consolidated up to Great Scott Basin and only got mushy in the few spots where the sun was hitting it (no postholing). There was a huge amount of rockfall on the open traverse above the stream. The first chute up to the base of the route has snow to within 15 feet of the top but it's thin in spots and of course pretty steep. We opted to take the other pass (which of these two is actually Pineapple Pass?), which was smooth sailing up and over. There's lots of snow on the backside traverse but the 3rd class scramble to the base was dry. We cruised to the summit and enjoyed the views for two hours before noticing another team heading up the basin. Rapped off about the time they arrived. One more stuck nut on the first pitch (sad face). The snow was very soft heading down, making for a most excellent race between Carl and I (damn, that was fun). Here's some pics in case you can't get enough of The Tooth. Good steps Jimmay gets his first alpine summit Me posing for a hero shot The Summit Team - Me, Jim, Carl (yellow helmet), and Brad (Brads first multipitch) If only I too were coordinated... This was a bit slick and quite a drop for the unwary glissader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belayerslayer Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 see my .4 bd cam on the last pitch? got it stuck there last week. also a nut midway up the route. yours for the taking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxtrax Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Your .4 cam is thoroughly fixed, I spent ~20 mins trying to clean it, bouncing on yellow and orange tcu's trying to expand the crack slightly. I gave up after my tcu's pulled out for the 3rd time and your cam hadn't budged. That crack is not forgiving if you place an overcammed piece, that green camalot 10" below your .4 has been there for over a year and a half now and I don't think it's been budged a centimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Cool - possible booty on the route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Didn't see the cam. We took the direct finish rather than the Catwalk - my second was having issues with vertical so I thought I'd spare him that little bit of exposure He kept muttering "don't look down" to himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belayerslayer Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Your .4 cam is thoroughly fixed, I spent ~20 mins trying to clean it, bouncing on yellow and orange tcu's trying to expand the crack slightly. I gave up after my tcu's pulled out for the 3rd time and your cam hadn't budged. That crack is not forgiving if you place an overcammed piece, that green camalot 10" below your .4 has been there for over a year and a half now and I don't think it's been budged a centimeter. haha thanks for tryin. Had a friend do is first trad lead on that section and wouldn't ya know it - locked in his first piece too solid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Nice TR Tim. Yes, it's the Tooth, but good on you for not only doing it but showing others too. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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