belayerslayer Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Trip: Baker - Easton Glacier Date: 5/25/2009 Trip Report: Led a team of 7 hardy folks up the picturesque easton glacier on mt Baker. Conditions couldn't have been better. Awesome weather, decent snow, great high camp spot, a solid boot-track all the way to the summit...and plenty of snowmobilers to remind us this is no longer a wilderness volcano. After mandatory stops at krispy kreme and starbucks, we made it to the "trailhead" a bit after 11, saturday morning. Geared up, started hiking at noon on the dot. A little over 2 miles from our car to the actual trailhead, due to snow. Worked it in just under an hour. While on break, two skiers caught up to us and wondered if anyone was missing a crampon - they found one in the snow a short ways back. Turns out one of our group had a piece that was gone - a beer to you both for finding that! We followed a variety of boot tracks, snow-shoe tracks, and snowmobile tracks through the woods and into the basin below railroad grade trail. I guess in early season the standard route skips the ridge and stays in the basin - didn't see anyone hiking on it. We pushed straight up the valley to the easton terminus and skirted over onto the conclusion of the railroad grade, finding a nice camp spot with a couple neighboring rock patches. Took 6 hours from car to camp. We were accompanied with the continuous, unholy whine of snowmobilers most of the way up. Unbelievable how annoying those vehicles can be - hadn't given the fine print about these machines being allowed up here much thought. I had chatted with mtn.climber from cc briefly beforehand about tag-teaming this summit. Before making high camp, I found his tent and discussed probable morning start times. Basecamp was luxurious, with great views, comfortable tents and awesome food. Helps to have a pair of experienced backpackers in the group who don't settle for freeze-dried chow. Lemon-soaked tilapia over a camp stove is incredible! Awoke at 1:30 am and by 3 we were hiking further up the ridge. Stopped at a snow bulge and roped/harnessed/cramponed up. Saw mtn.climber and his team of 2 climbing up off to our right - witnessed a light from the group suddenly go tumbling back down the slopes; thought it was a guy falling at first but turned out to be a headlamp and helmet - bummer! Traversed over to join the main route and followed steps on up. The climb is fairly easy, gentle to moderate slopes on a well-maintained trail that avoids anything nasty. Pushed on until just below the crater, where one of our member succumbed to fatigue and nausea. Built a little snow seat and gave him a few extra supplies, then continued on. The sun came out at this point and air temps rose. Plenty of skiers and other parties both large and small were climbing the glacier. One other member of our group ran out of gas and retreated back to the member we left below. From the crater, took about an hour and forty minutes to reach the summit. Looked deceivingly close. Summit reached at 9:45. Outstanding job for the team! Views were iconic, stunning, everything one expects up in the north cascades. Two and a half hours back to camp, then three and a half out to car. On our way back, resting at the start of the trailhead, our two skier friends pulled up behind us and offered another crampon to the group. Ed, who originally lost his, somehow dropped one again! Thanks fellas! This time it'll be a six-pack! Pics: slog up the valley high camp climbing parties high on the route our team of 8 steam rising from the crater summit the ceremonious passing of the missing crampon to its beleaguered owner Gear Notes: snowshoes maybe Approach Notes: road was blocked off over 2 miles from the trailhead when we started - by the next day we saw vehicles only a mile or so from the trailhead! Amazing, and frustrating, what can happen with a little sun and the right vehicles driving through - woulda been nice to be one mile closer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Wow, great trip! So, no more freeze dried delights for you? Perhaps its for the best, but those high bivies wont be the same without them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtn.climber Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Belayer, Thanks for looking us up when you reached the top of the grade. What a great weekend for a climb. Might've moved camp closer to you if I had known about the great food. Turns out a bird raided our food cache while we were climbing. We got down from the top and found nothing but crumbs. Keep me posted on future adventures. I'd enjoy sharing a rope with you. Mtn.climber (Dave) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneaky_steve Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Were there any open cracks? We went up at about this time last year and many parties were not roped up, we kept ours in the pack as well. Thanks for the photo's and info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whatcomboy Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Nice report. Baker is such a cool volcano. I used to love riding the sno machines but hate seeing them in the high country up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belayerslayer Posted May 27, 2009 Author Share Posted May 27, 2009 Were there any open cracks? We went up at about this time last year and many parties were not roped up, we kept ours in the pack as well. Thanks for the photo's and info! we roped up more for practical training than immediate crevasse danger. Actually on the descent we all were unroped, travelling back down to basecamp at our own pace. There were a few spots where cracks were showing but nothing threatening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 the vis was crazy monday wasnt it?! good job doin' work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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