Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress

Date: 1/25/2009

Trip Report:
Seemingly half of Seattle and all of Everett convereged on the NE Buttress on Sunday. Conditons on the buttress were the easiest I have yet seen with good neve and decent ice and enough exposed rock to offer reliable pro.

Although conditions were ripe for a goat rodeo of an unprecedented scale every one got along and things worked out pretty well as a collegiate atmosphere prevailed.

Gear Notes:
4 ice screws, mostly shorties, couple kb/bugaboo pins, few small-medium nuts, cams .5, .75, 1.

Approach Notes:
No floatation necessary - easy peasy.

Apparently there were more inquiring minds than I thought. Sorry about that, Dan. Glad to hear everyone got along, no cut ropes and ice tool fights. Was anyone brave enough to get on the N. Face?

Thakns for the beta; I would have climbed the Tooth if you had not posted your trip report.

A pair of climbers walked under the NF then walked back to the NE buttress. I suspect all parties climbed the NE Butt, but I could be mistaken.

Did you take the right hand line or the left? We went right. Six parties is more than I expected but it went well. Did you take any pics? I forgot my camera.

We did the right hand line.My partner took photos, I'll see if I can post them.

Nice TR! I was looking over at Chair from Snoqualmie Peak Saturday thinking the buttress looked in condition. The snow on my side of the valley was nice and firm. I hope it stays in shape for a week or two...I'd like to have a go (without the crowd if possible)

Pete and I had it to ourselves yesterday, save for gobs of steps from Source Lake to the Thumbtack. Must have been a crowd over the weekend indeed.

"Stampeding climbers? That's not much of a crime."

"Through the Vatican?"

"Kinky!"

We also took the right/standard line. The left line looked really good and intriguing - at least one team maybe two took it on Sunday. I was going to do it too, but although the climbing looked good, the pro was pretty thin so I backtracked and went right.

took the left line on saturday... it took screws fine. i think going left will thin out the rack a bit. in total we used 4 screws, 2 small nuts, one picket and a couple long slings for trees.

It was nice having it to ourselves on Monday and getting a little sunshine too. My first time on Chair, really cool. Here's a few shots of Jared.



Take 'er easy,
Pete