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[TR] Mt. Shuksan - fisher chimney climb / white salmon ski 1/22/2009


danhelmstadter

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Trip: Mt. Shuksan - fisher chimney climb / white salmon ski

 

Date: 1/22/2009

 

Trip Report:

I left the upper ski area lot around 430am, and skiied supportable and tracked crust to Lake Ann, where I enjoyed a resplendant Mt. Baker illiminated by the sunrise.

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I had never been to the Curtis Glacier area before, but the way was obvious past Lake Ann. My objective was to ski the Fisher Chimneys, or Curtis Blow if the chimneys were not in. As the chimneys came into view, they looked thin, and extrememly runneled and debried out.

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Upon reaching Curtis Glacier, I skiied to the south end of the glacier to get a better view of Curtis Blow, which was very thin - too thin to be in - for skiing.

 

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Haveing attempted another route on Shuksan a few days prior - just to be shut down cause of lack of snow in the route, I did not feel like throwing in the towel and skining back to Austin Pass, the Fisher Chimneys deserved a closer look.

Gaining the base of the chimney really brought the massive extent of the avi destruction into scale, huge debri piles everywhre. The chimney itself was filled with icy lanch runells, and lumpy avi tormented snow. As the chute turned right, it narrowed and steepened considerably. The first crux came into view, a 5 foot vertical rock step (from my feet) surrounded by rotten snow, and no solid holds. I checked out various alternatives, non of which posed a safer prospect. I stood there for some time, deliberateing retreat, the consequences of a slip were very grim, and downclimbing some time later would be even more difficult once the sun hit and sofented the already rotten manky snow. Finding a solid axe placement I went for it.

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these pics don't do justice to the exposure

 

 

A little ways above I encountered a 8-10 foot 70 degree manky ice bulge. Again I deliberated retreat, but after tearing down some rotten ice and snow, found solid placements and continued up.

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The snow above the crux steps was more icy runnells, and lumpy debris - then with a slight change to more of a westish aspect, the snow began to show a lot of skiable promise - sporting a thick breakable m/f crust which was sure to soften with the approach of late day sun...

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Once at the top, I waited and waited for the sun to come and do it's work, but high clouds rolled in and foiled my plans, leaving the nasty breakable crust intact. Decideing it would be better left for good snow, I climbed up Winnies Slide, clicked into the skis and began descent of the White Salmon (north faceing). I found glorious shallow half powder and various cold snow forms includeing hard nieve, crusts, and windboard all the way down to the valley below. The sun was setting as I skiied my way up to the resort, then through the resort in darkness to my rig in the upper lot.

 

my camera crapped out on me near winnies slide, so no descent pics

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Dberdinka, it was pretty solid yesterday except for in the trees where it was pretty manky and would be a posthole-sufferfest, although it has settled a lot over the last few days, and with the forecasted lowering fr levels, It should be easy on foot this weekend.

Edited by danhelmstadter
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