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#831689 - 08/31/08 02:35 PM [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 ***
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1707
TRs: 31 Photos: 407
Loc: leavenworth
Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2

Date: 8/28/2008

Trip Report:
In order to be a succesful climber in the Pacific Northwest you have to be able to adapt. Plans set in stone for weeks, even months, can be shut down at the last minute with alarming regularity; fickle cascade weather being the main culprit. Such was the case last week as the slowly increasing chance of precipitation crescendo'd at 4 in the afternoon with 100%. Our second attempt at a large north cascades project would have to be postponed, and we were back to the drawing board. Worse yet, blake could ditch me completely and head out on an extended trip amongst clearer horizons in the Idaho Sawtooths.

The Enchantments were are best bet and i had to think fast. The Google chat box quickly filled with ideas for the range: Boving Route to Solid Gold, the Girth, Der Sportsman. Blake shut each one down. I was scrambling for ideas when he replied: new route on CBR? i saw a line to the right. It was on, and i was hyped.




He claimed thin cracks through headwalls, aid for sure, so we brought the kit and caboodle. The approach was more comical than usual, quite cold, and a bit stormy. The first day we scoped things out, found a line, and fixed the first pitch. Blake threw down a mix of mostly free with a bit of aid, a badass heel-hook, and even placed a knifeblade while free climbing.

Pitch 1:




We went to bed that night a bit intimidated by our chosen line. The next day we woke up early to a brisk morning and numerous cups of coffee.

I taught Blake how to jug on pitch 1:




The weather was worse than the day before, clouds were blowing through, and we were being hit by intermittent mist and drizzle. At least we'd be dry under here:




What really can i say about the roof. The lead felt like I was in a trance. Did it take me 20 minutes, or 2 hours? I had to stop at the base and ask myself if I really was going to do this. The problem being, enough gear to get me to where? In the end it worked out fine, and yes, I think it will go free, it's mostly gold camalots!

Colchuck Reality Crack.




Cilogear!




Being that it was all the same size i had to backclean our two two's out the last half of the roof and then all the way up to the belay. I tagged them to Blake and he embarked on his first real aid pitch ever.

Self-portrait of Blake enjoying a steep learning curve:



We named the ledge atop the roof the "yin-yang ledge", and the next pitch which starts with the more moderate aspect of the roof crack, "The Lighter Side of the Moon." Fun free climbing up good dirty cracks.

Blake starting out:




Myself seconding:




An easy 5th class pitch led us to the base of the headwall which began with akward free up a pillar then onto the face. It soon turned to aid up a series of dirty corners and roofs.



I short fixed a couple belays when the ropedrag got bad or i needed gear. The finale involved an aesthetic set of triple cracks and brought me to a great stance ontop of the headwall.



I was stoked to give up the lead up to this aid gumby:




Actually Blake was doing a great job his first day out aid climbing and he pushed us on up the next pitch. Aid through a flare lead to a fun moderate corner crack and a slightly sketchy belay.




Darkness fell as I seconded, and i quickly remedied Blake's nest with a solid angle that we fixed. We could tell we where near the top and we really wanted to be off the face. The day had been cold and long and we were getting pretty worked. Aid led up to a dirty wet corner, a heelhook mantle, then a short chimney put me on the ridge, "The Great Escape."

I hooted and hollered and then Blake did too. Three simul pitches got us to top and the Tempest Wall was sent.

A moderatly painful morning-after was tempered by the idyllic alpine ambience.




The Tempest Wall



With a scrub, everything but the roof will proabaly go free at 5.11-.
I think the roof will go somewhere around 12c or so. It'll be one hell of a fight at the lip.


Rack of doubles from black alien to .75, 3 #1's, 4-6 #2's, 2 #3's, a single #4, set of nuts, dbl set of rp's, few pins or not.

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#831702 - 08/31/08 05:09 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: Sol]
maxhasson Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/26/06
Posts: 63
TRs: 2 Photos: 176
Loc: peshastin
Siiiiicccccckkkkkkk!!!!

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#831703 - 08/31/08 05:37 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: maxhasson]
Maine-iac Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/20/07
Posts: 415
TRs: 2 Photos: 29
Loc: MN
Come on man..... To be continued??
With that last photo, this could almost be compared to having your partner stop just before you have a big..... joygasm.
_________________________
Have fun now; because some day you'll be driving a minivan in the suburbs.

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#831706 - 08/31/08 06:20 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: Maine-iac]
mythosgrl Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 02/12/06
Posts: 311
TRs: 4 Photos: 124
Loc: Denver
I agree with Maine-iac.

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#831710 - 08/31/08 07:31 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: mythosgrl]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15445
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
 Originally Posted By: mythosgrl
I agree with Maine-iac.



I agree with mythosgrl....
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#831714 - 08/31/08 08:10 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: kevbone]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17462
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
 Originally Posted By: kevbone
 Originally Posted By: mythosgrl
I agree with Maine-iac.



I agree with mythosgrl....

i totally disagree w/ the both of you - what a boring story so far! and that last pic, god! wtf? you couldn't free that?!? \:p

\:\)

so when do we get to see/hear the next part? when? when? when?
_________________________
Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
Freedom is Slavery

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#831718 - 08/31/08 08:35 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: Sol]
telemarker Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/17/01
Posts: 1672
TRs: 71 Photos: 1091
Loc: Wenatchee, WA U.S.A
 Originally Posted By: Sol


Cool, Washington's very own Separate Reality!


Edited by telemarker (08/31/08 08:35 PM)
_________________________
"God gave you two eyes, two ears and one mouth. Use each in proportion."

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#831732 - 08/31/08 09:24 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: telemarker]
olyclimber Offline
☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 25288
TRs: 47 Photos: 893
Loc: In Love with You
That is pretty cool.

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#831768 - 09/01/08 08:25 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: olyclimber]
NoahT Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/20/05
Posts: 211
TRs: 5 Photos: 68
Loc: Seattle
Badass! Looks chilly....

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#831773 - 09/01/08 09:10 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: NoahT]
el jefe Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/31/07
Posts: 762
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: pdx
if you check the "rock climbing" forum, you'll see that the colchuck "separate reality" pic even caught the eye of that venerable crack specialist, dick cilley...

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#831788 - 09/01/08 11:43 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: el jefe]
lunger Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 407
TRs: 20 Photos: 149
v. cool, fellas.

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#831827 - 09/01/08 03:59 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008 [Re: lunger]
Blake Offline
kiwi-wanker

Registered: 10/15/03
Posts: 2921
TRs: 49 Photos: 773
Nice write-up Sol!

This was a blast... totally wild climbing. What a treat to be able to alpine climb in those conditions. Sol was a speedy aid rope-gun and the route will be a classic free climb, even if you aid through the "Colchuck Reality" roof.
_________________________
Author of the 2016 Cascades guidebook:
Cascades Rock

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#831832 - 09/01/08 04:12 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: Blake]
David Trippett Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/17/05
Posts: 824
TRs: 14 Photos: 227
Loc: Vancouver, B.C.
Awesome! Nice first Wall Blake! Man...that roof! Gold Camalots...crazy!

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#831873 - 09/01/08 07:02 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: David Trippett]
wayne Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 3601
TRs: 78 Photos: 656
Loc: Seattle!
Wow, I saw the route last time I was up there, Good work. I figured it would take aid.
_________________________
http://waynewallace.wordpress.com/

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#831892 - 09/01/08 08:14 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: wayne]
el jefe Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/31/07
Posts: 762
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: pdx
do you guys have a topo of the route?

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#831906 - 09/01/08 08:49 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: el jefe]
Lisa_D Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/01/07
Posts: 297
TRs: 19 Photos: 108
Loc: Seattle
nice work !

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#832012 - 09/02/08 09:56 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: Lisa_D]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2197
TRs: 44 Photos: 639
Loc: Bellingham
You learn to aid climb while doing the FA of a Grave IV alpine wall!? Jesus...some guys have all the luck...
_________________________
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

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#832028 - 09/02/08 10:21 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: dberdinka]
G-spotter Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 15214
TRs: 57 Photos: 410
Loc: free range
it looks more like the desert gold roof to me!
_________________________
Bagging a cougar is one of the most enjoyable sporting feats a young man can accomplish

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#832036 - 09/02/08 10:37 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: G-spotter]
olyclimber Offline
☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 25288
TRs: 47 Photos: 893
Loc: In Love with You
thats that one i was thinking of too dru

desert gold


seperate reality




SWEET IN OUR BACKYARD GOODNESS!!!


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#832042 - 09/02/08 10:44 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: olyclimber]
Rad Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/11/03
Posts: 2447
TRs: 28 Photos: 760
Loc: The Emerald City
Cool! Plenty more lines on that formation await first ascents...
_________________________
Earth and stone echo my bone.

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#832048 - 09/02/08 11:08 AM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: el jefe]
Blake Offline
kiwi-wanker

Registered: 10/15/03
Posts: 2921
TRs: 49 Photos: 773
 Originally Posted By: el jefe
do you guys have a topo of the route?


I don't think Sol is any better of an artist than I am, so we didn't think about drawing a topo. Here's a written description that should have more than enough info:

The route begins significantly lower than the "West Face" route. All pitches are very well protected, and we are guessing it will go free (except the roof) at 5.11.

Begin below the enormous roof.

P1) Up and left into a R-Facing slabby corner, leading to a tree and steeper wall. From above the tree, belay at base of mossy corner.

P2) Up the splitter cracks to the base of the roof.

P3) Out the roof, second half is 2" sustained. One fixed cam at lip of roof. Up to 'Yin-Yang' ledge 15' above lip of the roof.

P4) Move right on flakes and knobs into long corner, and up to the top. Will be a classic pitch when clean.

P5) Up low 5th class ground to the base of vertical streaked headwall.

P6) Up a R-Facing corner to a pillar top, then step out right and onto the wall. Climb into a cave and belay.

P7-P8) We short-fixed these and ran them together. You are climbing a vertical wall, past one roof, and on splitter cracks. Everything from small offset nuts to #3 camalots can be used. It would also go as one pitch. Belay at the base of a flaring corner with smaller crack in the back.

P9) Up the flare, then follow splitter L-Facing corner (.75") to a fixed-pin belay, supplemented by RPs.

P10) Make the great escape by climbing up and right, and then back left through a little chimney to flatter ground.

P11-14?) Follow blocky and easy terrain (steps of mid-fifth) up and to the summit ridge, where class 3 ground leads to the summit. We did this with headlamps and I can't recall a lot except for climbing up under a giant chockstone feature, and tunneling out the right side for an escape.
_________________________
Author of the 2016 Cascades guidebook:
Cascades Rock

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#832173 - 09/02/08 02:14 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: Blake]
AJScott Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 05/19/04
Posts: 290
TRs: 8 Photos: 50
Loc: Leaventucky
nice work guys! guess there was some big roofs to hide under if it started raining! color me jealous!!! sucked seeing you guys on your way up there while I was on my way back to work...

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#832230 - 09/02/08 04:20 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: AJScott]
Stefan Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 04/16/01
Posts: 2230
TRs: 7 Photos: 9
Loc: the circus
nice! thanks for the pics. holy cowza.
_________________________
Namaste - Whatever your outer appearance, I see and greet the soul in you.

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#834035 - 09/08/08 12:36 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: Stefan]
timmy_t Offline
member

Registered: 09/27/04
Posts: 153
TRs: 22 Photos: 566
Loc: Mount Vernon
nice job again you guys; you win the prize.
(what's the prize?)

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#834580 - 09/09/08 04:37 PM Re: [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest [Re: timmy_t]
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 823
TRs: 26 Photos: 593
Loc: Seatte, WA
kick ass!!

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