Trip Report: Well, I decided to take my own advice and give the ice cliff glacier route on Mt. Stuart a whirl. The Chris and I were amazed at the perfect conditions. Thunker neve from camp to the top of the couloir, them perfect wind-packed ice and snow to the summit. We thought the line was dramatic and highly alpine, with endless tool-swingin and front-pointing. There were two other parties of three below us on route, a good time was had by all. Props to team three for enduring all the ice and snowfall from above and for gettin-er-done in a day.
She looked mighty uninviting the night before:
The Ice Cliff: ]
Topping out on the ice cliff:
Upper couloir and the girth pillar:
Towards the top of the couloir:
Looking down at team three:
Team two on the summit ridge:
Team three on the summit ridge:
Team two starting the descent down the sherpa:
It really was amazing how much the mountain had changed in 9 days. The snow and ice had improved alot and new snow had filled in the rocks significantly. Conditions won't get much better...
Gear Notes: Tools and poons, 3-4 pickets, couple of screws, few cams and a few nuts.
Looks awesome. Is that picture titled "topping out on ice cliff" the shrund a hundred feet or so below you top out on the ridge? If so, that thing scared the living shit out of me going over it w/o a rope. My pathetic vertical wallow up and over it somehow worked without the thing collapsing. I yelled up for a rope immediately after that. O_O
Loc: soon to be montana
Originally Posted By: fenderfour
We were the team of 3, Argus, myself and MadeInMontana. It was a great route. Nice to see you guys up there.
Good job to team three. That would be a lot to get done in a day.
good to know we had a cc party on stuart. me, matt cook and my friend david were team 3. GREAT day in the mountains - the route was in such good and fun conditions. I never realized how much of a bitch descending sherpa is - could be that we were just really tired. But then again I fell in a crevasse...
Loc: soon to be montana
um on the lower part of sherpa. you know where that exposed rock was right before the slope dropped off a bunch? right in there. Only my legs punched through and matt pulled me out. good stuff. maybe i'll post a tr and talk about the ice and avalanches rained down on us. ha
I have a question. I've recently done my first ascent using Ulrich's up and then descended the False Summit down to the SE Couloir. I found the transition off the FS to be pretty steep and exposed in warm and soft conditions a couple weeks ago. My question is how do you traverse over to Sherpa Peak from the true summit to descend on it's glacier? Do I have to traverse the steep,slabby face with or without a snow cover, similar to what I did downclimbing to the SE? I guess I'm wondering, since I haven't seen any comments about the T. Summit to Sherpa traverse, is there a simple, less exposed route over to Sherpa to make the descent on Sherpa Glacier after coming up one of the North Face routes?
Nice TR. I have yet to climb this route and I've heard just about every description about this route. One thing I do know is that the snow this weekend was absolutely perfect in the area. I was over on Argonaut sitting on my ass belaying and I saw one of the groups of three descending toward Sherpa around noon thirty. It was like alpine television watching you tiny-ass dots scrawling around on the improbable slopes of that mountain. You get to talk to any of others?
One of those groups of three was a Boealps group who are friends of mine. I heard they had just as good of a time up there as you guys did. Perfect styrofoam for kicking steps. Too bad I left my board at home. Argonaut's descent was shreddable about 2 weeks ago.
-=Hard work pays off over time, but laziness pays off NOW=-