Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support cc.com.


Supporting Sponsors





Pro Mountain Sports
Alpine Light Down Parka 14.4oz

blank
Who's Online
2 registered (snoboy, NickM), 45 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27516 Members
50 Forums
101097 Topics
1148776 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 112
JasonG 107
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 78
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#804954 - 06/09/08 11:30 AM [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008
Sol Online   devil
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1707
TRs: 31 Photos: 407
Loc: leavenworth
Trip: Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier

Date: 6/8/2008

Trip Report:
Well, I decided to take my own advice and give the ice cliff glacier route on Mt. Stuart a whirl. The Chris and I were amazed at the perfect conditions. Thunker neve from camp to the top of the couloir, them perfect wind-packed ice and snow to the summit. We thought the line was dramatic and highly alpine, with endless tool-swingin and front-pointing. There were two other parties of three below us on route, a good time was had by all. Props to team three for enduring all the ice and snowfall from above and for gettin-er-done in a day.

She looked mighty uninviting the night before:



Deja vu:



The Ice Cliff:
]





Boom!



Topping out on the ice cliff:



Upper couloir and the girth pillar:






Towards the top of the couloir:






Looking down at team three:



Team two on the summit ridge:



Summit views:






Team three on the summit ridge:



Team two starting the descent down the sherpa:


It really was amazing how much the mountain had changed in 9 days. The snow and ice had improved alot and new snow had filled in the rocks significantly. Conditions won't get much better...

Gear Notes:
Tools and poons, 3-4 pickets, couple of screws, few cams and a few nuts.

Top
Help Support CascadeClimbers

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#804966 - 06/09/08 11:54 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: Sol]
lunger Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 407
TRs: 20 Photos: 149
nice pics, cool report.

Top
#805032 - 06/09/08 02:32 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: lunger]
fenderfour Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 06/30/03
Posts: 3031
TRs: 13 Photos: 19
We were the team of 3, Argus, myself and MadeInMontana. It was a great route. Nice to see you guys up there.

Good job to team three. That would be a lot to get done in a day.
_________________________
Striving for mediocrity

Top
#805033 - 06/09/08 02:33 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: lunger]
JoshK Offline
sprayer

Registered: 07/09/02
Posts: 5972
TRs: 27 Photos: 237
Loc: Seattle
Looks awesome. Is that picture titled "topping out on ice cliff" the shrund a hundred feet or so below you top out on the ridge? If so, that thing scared the living shit out of me going over it w/o a rope. My pathetic vertical wallow up and over it somehow worked without the thing collapsing. I yelled up for a rope immediately after that. O_O

Top
#805042 - 06/09/08 03:07 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: JoshK]
belayerslayer Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/05/07
Posts: 83
TRs: 15 Photos: 23
Loc: des moines
great pics!

Top
#805064 - 06/09/08 03:46 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: belayerslayer]
Chad_A Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/24/03
Posts: 1500
TRs: 14 Photos: 371
Loc: Bellingham, WA
Nice pics, I'd forgotten how pretty that route can be, especially with the new snow. Thanks for sharin' ;\)
_________________________
"prepare, do your best, and continue trying after failures." -George Lowe

Top
#805074 - 06/09/08 04:23 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: Chad_A]
skykilo Offline
veteran

Registered: 09/04/02
Posts: 1253
TRs: 25 Photos: 8
Loc: SF, NM
I love that route.

Top
#805144 - 06/09/08 08:18 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: fenderfour]
kevino Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/07
Posts: 1749
TRs: 31 Photos: 57
Loc: soon to be montana
 Originally Posted By: fenderfour
We were the team of 3, Argus, myself and MadeInMontana. It was a great route. Nice to see you guys up there.

Good job to team three. That would be a lot to get done in a day.

good to know we had a cc party on stuart. me, matt cook and my friend david were team 3. GREAT day in the mountains - the route was in such good and fun conditions. I never realized how much of a bitch descending sherpa is - could be that we were just really tired. But then again I fell in a crevasse...

Top
#805147 - 06/09/08 08:23 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: kevino]
Argus Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/11/06
Posts: 221
TRs: 3 Photos: 37
Loc: Vegas
Where'd you fall in a crevasse at?

Top
#805148 - 06/09/08 08:26 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: Argus]
kevino Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/07
Posts: 1749
TRs: 31 Photos: 57
Loc: soon to be montana
um on the lower part of sherpa. you know where that exposed rock was right before the slope dropped off a bunch? right in there. Only my legs punched through and matt pulled me out. good stuff. maybe i'll post a tr and talk about the ice and avalanches rained down on us. ha

Top
#805445 - 06/10/08 07:25 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: kevino]
Jimmy J Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/16/07
Posts: 23
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Yakima
I have a question. I've recently done my first ascent using Ulrich's up and then descended the False Summit down to the SE Couloir. I found the transition off the FS to be pretty steep and exposed in warm and soft conditions a couple weeks ago. My question is how do you traverse over to Sherpa Peak from the true summit to descend on it's glacier? Do I have to traverse the steep,slabby face with or without a snow cover, similar to what I did downclimbing to the SE? I guess I'm wondering, since I haven't seen any comments about the T. Summit to Sherpa traverse, is there a simple, less exposed route over to Sherpa to make the descent on Sherpa Glacier after coming up one of the North Face routes?

Top
#805496 - 06/10/08 10:10 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: kevino]
moronbros Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/04/06
Posts: 51
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: the schitty
Nice TR. I have yet to climb this route and I've heard just about every description about this route. One thing I do know is that the snow this weekend was absolutely perfect in the area. I was over on Argonaut sitting on my ass belaying and I saw one of the groups of three descending toward Sherpa around noon thirty. It was like alpine television watching you tiny-ass dots scrawling around on the improbable slopes of that mountain. You get to talk to any of others?

One of those groups of three was a Boealps group who are friends of mine. I heard they had just as good of a time up there as you guys did. Perfect styrofoam for kicking steps. Too bad I left my board at home. Argonaut's descent was shreddable about 2 weeks ago.
_________________________
-=Hard work pays off over time, but laziness pays off NOW=-

Top
#805616 - 06/11/08 08:10 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: moronbros]
fenderfour Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 06/30/03
Posts: 3031
TRs: 13 Photos: 19
Some pics from madeInMontana


The Ice Cliff on Saturday


Fenderfour and Argus in the morning


MadeInMontana leading


In the icefall


Steep


MadeInMontana (Blue Helmet) and Argus


Topping out on the ridge


The way to the summit

I managed to fall on my crampons and break both extender bars just before the descent. Good times...

I had to rappel some of the steeper bits. I totally n00bed it up.


The Descent
_________________________
Striving for mediocrity

Top
#805617 - 06/11/08 08:13 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: fenderfour]
Sol Online   devil
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1707
TRs: 31 Photos: 407
Loc: leavenworth
Nice pics doods!

Top
#805800 - 06/11/08 12:32 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: Sol]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6290
TRs: 56 Photos: 1214
Loc: PDX
Great pics Sol and Fender4

Did anybody get a good look (or better a pic) of how snow free the ice cliff arete (the ridge climbers left of the ice cliff glacier/ice fall)?

Top
#805859 - 06/11/08 01:47 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: Sol]
Fairweather Offline
sprayer

Registered: 06/14/01
Posts: 8916
TRs: 37 Photos: 148
How was the Sherpa Glacier descent? Schrund ok? Thinking about going "up" that way soon.

Top
#805878 - 06/11/08 02:06 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: Fairweather]
Bug Offline
sprayer

Registered: 02/22/02
Posts: 6654
TRs: 5 Photos: 127
Loc: Redmond WA
Thanks for the pics!
_________________________
You can't handle this.

Top
#805888 - 06/11/08 02:27 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: Bug]
fenderfour Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 06/30/03
Posts: 3031
TRs: 13 Photos: 19
Sherpa glacier was cake. The schrund had a few ways around, at least one should still be good.

I looked through the pics and couldn't find anything that showed the Arete. Based on what the pillar looked like, I would say there is some snow, but it woud be feasible as a rock climb.
_________________________
Striving for mediocrity

Top
#805932 - 06/11/08 03:26 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008 [Re: fenderfour]
moronbros Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/04/06
Posts: 51
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: the schitty
Fender, here's a pic Emily took of you guys descending toward sherpa around 12:30. Was that you guys or the other team?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26657904@N08/2570776290/in/set-72157605554197944/

I can't get over that perfect snow.
_________________________
-=Hard work pays off over time, but laziness pays off NOW=-

Top



Moderator:  mattp, minx, To_The_Top 
© 2000-10 cascadeclimbers.com · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top