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[TR] The Adamants - Various 7/23/2007


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Trip: The Adamants - Various

 

Date: 7/23/2007

 

Trip Report:

On the 23rd of July a friend from Squamish and myself flew into the Unicorn basin below the West Buttress of the Horn. This was my second visit to the area.....last years TR is here: LINK

 

The primary goal of the trip was field work for my MSc and a bit o' climbering. After having to bail last year, my main climbing goal was to climb the West Buttress of the Horn, a stunning ~20 pitch route similar to the BC in the bugs.

 

We warmed up with a quick ascent of the Gibson-Rohn route on Ironman, one of the best routes I've done anywhere.

 

After sitting in the rain for three days we sent the Horn all free in a day, completing a difficult two pitch variation on the first tower, likely the third all-free one-day ascent of this outstanding route.

 

There remains a lot of unclimbed rock and big objectives in the Adamants for the committed.

 

Here's some pics, enjoy!

 

 

 

 

 

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Adamants Panorama

 

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Camp below The Horn

 

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Our variation on the Horn(a pic from last year's attempt)

 

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Headwall splitter on the first tower

 

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Shawn at the base of the second tower

 

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Summit of The Horn

 

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Iron Man

 

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High on Iron Man

 

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Bath Time!

 

 

Gear Notes:

Double cams to #2 + one #3 & #4

 

walking axe and crampons

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

CMH Chopper

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The rock can be amazing....really amazing, but it can also be slammed shut, scary-loose and really run-out on marginal gear and hard climbing. The climbing there (at least on the west side) really starts around 5.10, perhaps with a few exceptions.....so there's not so much easy, fun stuff to do as in the Bugs. It's like the evil bastard twin of the Bugs :noway: . New routeing there requires a bolt or two, big balls or both :lmao: .... The routes i've done/seen there are sandbagged and feel really committing....I can see why Fred would like it :laf:

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