Trip: Pica Peak (Poster Peak, 7565')- Washington Pass - East North East Buttress, Left
Date: 7/15/2007
Trip Report:Fred Beckey calls it Pica Peak. Many of the local skiers call it Poster Peak. Roboboy and I climbed the leftmost of the two buttresses and the one that leads most directly to the summit. We did the climb pretty much as described below in 2004 NW Mountaineering Journal, except that it wasn't twelve pitches. It was about nine, of which about four of those were simulclimbed.
The quality of the rock is for the most part good. There are some sections of decomposing granite (aka kittylitter) and some loose blocks, but overall pretty good. There are only a couple of 5.7 cruxes and at least one can be avoided if desired. Most of the climbing is low fifth class, but quite enjoyable because of the nice exposure and views. Protection is rather sparse but generally sufficient.
The descent is quite straightforward. Since we didn't bring ice axes on the route we got by with descending screen in the mote on the left until we we felt we could negotiate the firm snow safely.
I'd rate the route Grade II-III, because it only took us 7.5 hours car to car and we aren't the world's fastest climbers by any means.
Poster Peak”, East-Northeast Buttresses, New Routes
Poster Peak is shown on the Washington Pass quad as point 7565’, located one mile southeast of the Early Winters Spires. It is the terminating high point of the long but mostly flat ridge extending toward Copper Point from the Early Winters massif. The locals named the peak, which is very striking from most angles, after it was used on a ski poster and everyone wanted to know where it was.
In the summer of 2003, Poster Peak saw ascents by two probable new routes.
Larry Goldie and Blue Bradley climbed the leftmost of the two prominent east-northeast buttresses, as seen from Highway 20 just below the hairpin turn. This high-quality moderate route makes for a great day out, with a one-hour approach. It traverses onto the nose of the buttress from the left on a broad ledge 200 feet up and left from the toe. From there, staying true to the ridge crest on delightful, sound rock will take one right to the summit in about 12 pitches, with the most difficult near the summit at 5.7. This route is of higher quality than the often overcrowded South Arete of South Early Winters Spire. Consider it a good alternative on a busy summer day. Descent is by walk-off to the south and down to the base of the route. Its name is tentatively “Blue Buttress.”
Grade III 5.7.
Small alpine rack to 2 inches.
Approach Notes:Approach takes about an hour, or an hour and a half if there isn't snow.
Rob standing at start of first pitch
The route
Natural caves on left side of buttress
Descent route
Looks like fun
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