Billy Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Trip: Mt Jefferson - West Rib Date: 5/24/2007 Trip Report: Rob and I climbed the West Rib of Jefferson May 24/25. I thought the route was an unsung classic in the Oregon Cascades. The solitude was incredible, and the climbing not too bad either. The Pamelia trail on the way in is a little beat up from the debris flow, but its pretty easy to navigate with the flagging that the FS has put up, you just have to keep looking. Crossing Milk Creek, which is now a huge gouge, was sporty. Actually not the creek crossing, but downclimbing into the gouge and climbing back up out of it. The bushwack up the North Fork was steep and tiring, but the actual amount of bushwacking isn't too sustained. Once you get on snow in the creek at about 5600, its good cruising up to a camp on the top of the timbered rib at 6600. Its a little slice on the North Cascades, right here in Oregon. The Rib had really poor snow conditions while we were crossing the upper Milk Creek Drainage, but once we got up on the Rib at about 7000, the snow firmed up again. The climbing up the Rib to the summit pinnacle was low angle up to about 35 degrees, and goes on forever. What a great ski run this would make. The summit pinnacle was steep snice and some rime that you did actually have to climb and not step around. It was a fitting end to a spectacular climb. No gear whatsoever. Bring two ropes to rappel off of the North Summit, or do the downclimb, as we did. This was full value. We left camp at 03:15, summitted at 09:10, and back to camp at 12:10. After climbing we got back to camp and hiked out arriving at the car at 16:30. Milk Creek Gouge Scwacking the North Fork The West Rib from Camp Summit Pinnacle Rob approaching the summit Gear Notes: Snow pro, but no screws needed. Approach Notes: Pack light, its not your average Oregon Cascades approach. When trying to gain the top of the timbered rib that splits the forks of Milk Creek, go way left up the North Fork Gulley, and slowly swing back right. If you stay too close to the creek its a slide alder festival. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanglacier Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Good job! Why didn't you bring skis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fettster Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Nice job and write-up. Interesting to read about this approach and love the West Rib pic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Great! You guys the first names in the summit register this year? Good photos, thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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