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[TR] Coastal BC - Wedge Mt. via north arete 5/21/2007


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Trip: Coastal BC - Wedge Mt. via north arete

 

Date: 5/21/2007

 

Trip Report:

Climbed to the hut early Saturday in rain/snow in 5 hrs. Snowpack showed up at ~ 1/4 mark and got progressively deeper. As expected, snow was wet and deep making for lots of knee and some waste deep post-holing/tough going.

 

Made our bid for the summit Sunday morning at 3 am. Had a nice pocket of weather until about 6 am then weather turned poor again (snow/very poor vis). Made it up the to the north arete at ~ 8 600' and then decided to abort.

 

Here's a topo of our route and another pic showing the place in much finer form that we experienced:

 

507747473_253e6d18c2_o.jpg

 

507747471_49435ac262_o.jpg

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Rope, couple of pickets, ice screw, crampons. Ski/snowshoes would have been nice.

 

Approach Notes:

East off hwy 99, 10 mins north of Whistler, good access road up to trailhead. Grunt up steep Wedgemount Cr. trail up to hut ~ 4 - 5 hrs, then 6 hr to arete (should normally take 6 hrs from hut beyond arete to summit).

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day-trip it in july or aug once the snow has settled. 2 1/2 hrs to the hut, easy. brew up and relax for an hour. 3 hrs up the ridge - take the left-hand snowslope mid ht in your photo to the low pt on the ridge to avoid the trickier sections of the glacier. admire the view and snooze on top for a cpl hours. 4 hrs top to car; faster if your legs can put up with running the trail down from the hut, which is an amazing blast!

one of the great classic coastal daytrips...

cheers, don

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