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#675403 - 04/30/07 06:58 PM [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007
Colin Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 12/06/00
Posts: 510
TRs: 21 Photos: 46
Loc: Seattle
Trip: Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA)

Date: 4/29/2007

Trip Report:
Yesterday Dylan Johnson and I climbed a route on the NE Face of Stuart that I believe is a new variation. We had made an attempt last Saturday but bailed up the Ice Cliff Couloir after realizing we weren't prepared for the difficulties. The succesful ascent yesterday took about 19.5 hours car-to-car, using bikes for Mountaineers Creek Road.

The route we took ascended various bits of previous routes, with what I believe were two new ice pitches. The lower portion of the face is comprised of horizontal bands of vertical to overhanging rock seperated by snow ledges. The first rock band we climbed via a short pitch of WI4. The second rock band had a spectacular free-standing ice pillar, but it looked very difficult (probably WI6) and at risk of collapsing, so we traversed right to join the original route (Mahre-Prater, August 1959) for one pitch. This had a move of aid, and there were 3 old pitons. From the top of the aid pitch we traversed back left to the ice line, and climbed the last rock band by a difficult waterfall pitch that I felt was WI6. It was not very long, but steep, narrow, and very chandeliered. Perhaps in some years it is nonexistant, and perhaps in some years it is WI4.

Above the rock bands we joined the Nelson-Klewin May 1978 route for the middle snowfield and a short step of ice. We diverged from the 1978 route to the right for several hundred feet, and then joined back up with it for the finishing bowls and gullies to the ridge crest (this finish also established by Mahre-Prater, 1958).

Although I think our route is only a new variation and not an independent route, it is an aesthetic line with challenging ice climbing on Stuart's cleanest face. We wanted to name it in honor of a wonderful friend and excellent climber who Dylan and I both were fortunate enough to know. Following the tradition from Mt. Index, we would like to call this route the Lara Kellogg Memorial Route in the hope that the name will help carry Lara's memory to future climbers in the Cascades.







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#675405 - 04/30/07 07:07 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Colin]
NYC007 Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/05/03
Posts: 793
TRs: 2 Photos: 54
Loc: spokanistan
nice work guys, looks like a good line.
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#675408 - 04/30/07 07:10 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route [Re: Colin]
ZimZam Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/01/05
Posts: 1876
TRs: 1 Photos: 61
Loc: Zion
Perfect tribute.

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#675412 - 04/30/07 07:17 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route [Re: ZimZam]
TeleRoss Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 06/24/03
Posts: 696
TRs: 37 Photos: 288
Loc: green room

Nice work...but...where are your skis?
_________________________
All I do is surf now...but might make a guest appearance on a mountain or two near you wink

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#675414 - 04/30/07 07:22 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route [Re: TeleRoss]
AlpineK Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 11/08/00
Posts: 11435
TRs: 73 Photos: 982
Loc: Seattle, WA
Nice name and nice route.

But like Ross said where are your skis?
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http://symbiosistree.com/index.html

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#675422 - 04/30/07 07:36 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route [Re: AlpineK]
AlpineDave Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/07/02
Posts: 897
TRs: 4 Photos: 3
Nice work Colin & Dylan. beautiful tribute

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#675426 - 04/30/07 07:44 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route [Re: TeleRoss]
Colin Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 12/06/00
Posts: 510
TRs: 21 Photos: 46
Loc: Seattle
Yeah, Ross, when we were on those snowfields I was thinking about your idea of skiing the NE Face. If it were skied for real (hucking the cliff bands), I think it would be the most extreme ski descent ever accomplished. If it were semi-skied (rapping the cliff bands), it would still be really scary!

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#675440 - 04/30/07 08:34 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route [Re: Colin]
marcus Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/25/02
Posts: 262
TRs: 8 Photos: 71
Loc: Portland, OR
Good on ya,fellas!

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#675447 - 04/30/07 08:39 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route [Re: marcus]
olyclimber Offline
☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 25288
TRs: 47 Photos: 893
Loc: In Love with You
Nice Colin and Dylan! Looks like a cool climb.

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#675457 - 04/30/07 08:54 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Colin]
Marko Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 12/09/00
Posts: 537
TRs: 4 Photos: 67
Loc: Ren. Ton.
Pretty cool amigo. Good looking pitches.

So sad hearing about Lara.

-TW

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#675495 - 04/30/07 10:18 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Marko]
AlpineMonkey Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 540
TRs: 29 Photos: 279
That looks fantastic.

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#675509 - 04/30/07 11:08 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: AlpineMonkey]
TrogdortheBurninator Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 04/02/04
Posts: 1934
TRs: 20 Photos: 101
Loc: no longer between Ricks and th...
Condolences on the loss of your friend. I'm sure she would have been proud of the fine line you put up.
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"Burninating the Country Side, Burninating the Peasants"

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#675517 - 05/01/07 12:28 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: TrogdortheBurninator]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6290
TRs: 56 Photos: 1214
Loc: PDX
Fine work Colin and Dylan. I hope this route ensures the memories of Lara live on with all of us... her departure is a huge loss to the PNW climbing community and she leaves big shoes for future aspiring alpinists... male or female... to try and fill.

Peace to all who knew and loved her.

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#675551 - 05/01/07 08:16 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: TrogdortheBurninator]
Doug Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/04/00
Posts: 1670
TRs: 2 Photos: 27
Loc: Renton, officially part of the...
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#675561 - 05/01/07 08:35 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Doug]
Weekend_Climberz Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3403
TRs: 4 Photos: 139
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
Been a long ice season this year in Washington
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Weekday Sprayer

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#675583 - 05/01/07 09:19 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Weekend_Climberz]
brian_m Offline
member

Registered: 04/17/06
Posts: 149
TRs: 4 Photos: 27
Loc: North Bend, WA
Nice climb guys. I am glad to hear that you went back in and finished the route. It was fun hanging out at 5400' camp last week chatting on your way out.
Colin... see you in AK next month.

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#675616 - 05/01/07 09:51 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Colin]
To_The_Top Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1609
TRs: 1 Photos: 40
Loc: Seattle
Great tribute, nice rt.
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#676024 - 05/01/07 07:02 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: To_The_Top]
Adventureboy Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/04/05
Posts: 72
TRs: 2 Photos: 5
Loc: Earth
Nice work, very sorry for the loss of one in the community, it was a good way to honor her.

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#676033 - 05/01/07 07:17 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Adventureboy]
lancegranite Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 1740
TRs: 0 Photos: 88
Loc: 11worth
Well done, a fitting tribute indeed.

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#676044 - 05/01/07 07:33 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: lancegranite]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15445
TRs: 3 Photos: 291
Loc: land of the little people.
Wow....so cool. I love Mt Stuart. Truly the crown jewel.
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All you need is love.....

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#676280 - 05/02/07 09:45 AM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: kevbone]
Kat_Roslyn Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 02/08/06
Posts: 591
TRs: 1 Photos: 51
Loc: Roslyn
Nice job you guys!
That picture of Dylan stuck is really funny!!
-Kat
_________________________
LTDATT

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#676404 - 05/02/07 01:03 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: Kat_Roslyn]
esugi Offline
member

Registered: 05/28/04
Posts: 109
TRs: 9 Photos: 128
Colin, great pics ... appreciate you sharing your story with the rest of us. Will never forget that adventurous Greyhound Bus ride back from PDX.

Eiji

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#676450 - 05/02/07 02:23 PM Re: [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007 [Re: esugi]
Toast Offline
veteran

Registered: 09/03/02
Posts: 1455
TRs: 13 Photos: 60
Loc: Beacon Hill
Bad ass'd

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