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#627072 - 12/28/06 08:18 PM [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2563
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Trip: Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA)

Date: 12/28/2006

Trip Report:
What do you do at Banks when it's not "in"?

You go mixed climbing.

Today Matt (NYC007) and I established a new route that is mentioned as a "rumor of ice" in the Washington Ice Guide. It is located between "The Cable" and "H202". We named the route "Brush Master" after it's slight resemblance to Mixed Master (which we just climbed last week). We found no traces of prior ascents.

The route starts on fractured basalt, by the road, left of the ice runnel to gain a snowy ledge. Traverse out right to the icicles and ascend the brushy ramp, protected with many many crappy knifeblades, to thicker ice above. I belayed after about 50m, just after the first ice step (yellow/gray aliens helpful). The last 50' of ice were sunbaked and partially detached, but the sun was shining and it was a great, although quite technical, pitch. After that, one double rope rappel from the now slung bush brought us back to the ground. A nice little mixed route.

Brush Master (click for topo)



Me leading the first mixed crux


Higher up on the sun baked and detached pillar.




A good day out


"Brush Master"
II, 65M
WI4+, 5.7
FA: Kurt Hicks, Matt Cusack

Gear Notes:
An arsenal of knifeblades (8 or so)
small cams
#1 or 2 camalot (optional for last pitch)
a couple screws & screamers
slings
double ropes to rappel


Approach Notes:
Park about 100m south of H202.


Edited by kurthicks (12/29/06 09:13 AM)
_________________________
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#627076 - 12/28/06 08:24 PM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 ( [Re: kurthicks]
Alpinfox Offline
Tebow Believer

Registered: 03/05/02
Posts: 5227
TRs: 23 Photos: 322

Sweet!
_________________________
let's spank this pony and see where she goes

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#627092 - 12/28/06 08:43 PM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: kurthicks]
pup_on_the_mountain Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 09/15/04
Posts: 523
TRs: 6 Photos: 45
Loc: Land of Cows
Awesome work gents!!!

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#627121 - 12/28/06 09:56 PM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: pup_on_the_mountain]
brian_m Offline
member

Registered: 04/17/06
Posts: 149
TRs: 4 Photos: 27
Loc: North Bend, WA
Great TR! Thanks for the great beta and pics!
Way to get it on when things just aren't "in"!

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#627124 - 12/28/06 09:58 PM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: pup_on_the_mountain]
Alex Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/18/00
Posts: 4668
TRs: 23 Photos: 135
Loc: Seattle, WA, USA
nice work you two. looks cool. can you email details re: where its at milepost wise?

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#627140 - 12/28/06 10:26 PM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: Alex]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Looks like that early season training has paid off. Way to go man.

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#627187 - 12/29/06 12:18 AM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: powderhound]
KingsMM Offline
member

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 150
TRs: 6 Photos: 35
Loc: McMinnville Area OR
Sweet! That makes me look like a wimp and i though i was cool when i did my first ice lead (Devils Punch bowl) today.

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#627234 - 12/29/06 07:48 AM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: Alex]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2563
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
Originally Posted By: Alex
where its at milepost wise?


This is the climb between The Cable and H2O2.

We did our best to clean the brush at the belays and on route, but it is still a little prickly. I think a couple more ascents will result in less brush on the ramp, thus resulting in more ice (since it won't be taken up by the bushes). Also, cleaning the cattails from the ledges will definately help increase the ice.
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#627240 - 12/29/06 08:13 AM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: kurthicks]
Weekend_Climberz Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3403
TRs: 4 Photos: 139
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
Sweet!

Who's gonna finish off that large flow south of Zenith??
_________________________
Weekday Sprayer

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#627242 - 12/29/06 08:15 AM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: Weekend_Climberz]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2563
TRs: 26 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
go about your business... nothing to see out at Banks anyways.
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#627243 - 12/29/06 08:16 AM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: kurthicks]
Weekend_Climberz Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3403
TRs: 4 Photos: 139
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
It would be sweet if the chimney down low would ice up, but it should still be able to go in a moderate M grade.
_________________________
Weekday Sprayer

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#627541 - 12/29/06 05:02 PM Re: [TR] Banks Lake - Brush Master II, WI4+, 5.7 (FA) 12/28/2006 [Re: Weekend_Climberz]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1472
TRs: 21 Photos: 307
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: Weekend_Climberz
Sweet!

Who's gonna finish off that large flow south of Zenith??


Anyone wanna give me a belay.

Or take me over there.


Edited by powderhound (12/29/06 05:04 PM)

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