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MT. OLYMPUS


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(I'm guessing that since Jerry's in the insurance biz, he probably works all day on one of those old-style terminal-emulation financial programs that require all-caps for data entry. After a while you don't even notice them anymore... they are a bit tough on the eyes tho...)

Nice going on Oly Jerry- that route's been on my list for a while... might just get up it this season.

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I meant to add my congrats, too. Olympus has been one of my dreams... maybe next year. I would agree that you did a good thing in carrying your climbing boots. More than one of my trips has been ruined by blisters and exhaustion from long approaches in stiff heavy boots that could have easily been done wearing shoes - wise choice.

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WE DID MT. OLYMPUS THIS WEEKEND IN THE OLYMPICS. WEATHER WAS PERFECT AND THERE WAS HARDLY ANY WIND. I CAN'T BELIEVE HOW BEAUTIFUL THE MOUNTAIN IT WAS. THE GLACIER WAS MASSIVE AT LOW ALTITUDE. I FELT LIKE I WAS IN ALASKA. THE ROUTE WAS STRAIGHTFORWARD AND EASY TO FOLLOW AS THERE WAS FOOTPATH AND WANDS LEADING TO THE WEST SUMMIT. THERE IS ABOUT 150 FEET OF SOME 4TH TO LOW 5TH CLASS SCRAMBLE TO REACHED THE TOP WITH A SUMMIT REGISTER. THE APPROACH OF 17.5 MILES TO REACHED GLACIER MEADOWS (BASE CAMP) SEEMED BRUTAL BUT THE FIRST 13 MILES WAS PRETTY FLAT. WE STARTED AROUND 10:30 AM AND REACHED THE CAMP ABOUT 5:00 PM. NEXT DAY WE STARTED CLIMBING ABOUT 6:00 AM AND REACHED THE SUMMIT JUST AFTER 11:00 AM. BACK IN CAMP AROUND 3:00PM AND HIKED OUT 7 MILES TO ANOTHER CAMP. WE REACHED THE CAR THE NEXT DAY AT 10:30AM AND MADE THE 2:15 PM FERRY AND BACK TO SEATTLE AROUND 3:00PM. WE PACKED LIGHT (BIVI'S AND LIGHT GEAR AND SMALL PACK) AND I HIKED IN WITH MY RUNNING SHOES - CARRIED MY CLIMBING BOOTS. I FOUND THIS TO BE VERY COMFORTABLE FOR MY FEET AND AVOID BLISTERS. I COULDN'T BELIEVE HOW MANY PEOPLE HIKING IN WITH THEIR PLASTIC BOOTS. THEY DIDN'T LOOK TOO HAPPY. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THIS METHOD FOR LONG APPROACH?

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hello Climber Friends,

I climbed Olympus this past weekend (July 29-Aug 1, 2001). The scenery is spectacular up there, and worth every step of the approach (which is through one of the mnost magnificent forests you'll ever see.) Anyone that badmouths this route as being too far in or too low a peak has likely never done it, and it's a technically trickier climb than many folks might think. Highly recommended!

Here's my beta and suggestions . . .

1) 4 days is the minimum - Day 1: hike into 9 mile camp. Day 2: hike to Glacier Meadows (mile 18ish) Day 3: climb, return to high camp, pack up, and hike out as far as you can (we made it all the way back to 9 mile), Day 4: out to cars and home. Pray hard to the Sun Goddess.

2) Pack as light as you can. Light footwear is key. Running shoe hike in works great. Use the lightest boots you can for the climb. I used the new Grivel G-10 universal crampons - they rock!!! - Fits anything from sport sandals to plastic boots. REI in Portland rents 'em - worth renting even if you have a beefier pair of crampons. No plastic boots!

3) Use the Custom Correct map.

4) Crossing the Blue Glacier: The compass bearing from the uphill end of the moraine across the Blue is 190 magnetic (in case you can't see it when you are up there at the start.) There are hundreds of crevasses on the Blue, but nothing more than 2-3 feet across and routefinding is easy. We were roped up for the Blue. Crampons required. A GPS would not be a bad idea here, as wands are hard to put in ice. At least take a good compass back bearing if you have clear weather on the way up, cuz you may really want it on the way back of the clouds roll up from the valley.

5) Gear: No pickets needed. Use buried axes for deadmen if you need a crevasse rescue anchor on the Snow dome. I would have been happy if I had 2-3 Tri cams and 2 big stoppers for the rock on top. The rock gear is light and adds peace of mind for some easy but exposed lead moves. A 50 meter rope rap just makes it off the top. Need belay device for the rap. Bring 2 ice screws for crevasse rescue on the Blue Glacier. Bring several large liteweight (not 1" webbing!) slings and a cordellette for slinging rocks on summit block. Exposed 5.1/5.2 climbing on summit block.

6) Good boot track all the way up Snow Dome. There's a moat at Crystal Pass that may need vertical snow-ice climbing for about 15 feet on the return after Aug 15 or so - the bridge was melting fast when we were there. Stay roped on Snow dome all the way to top - BIG crevasses up there.

7) Bring chocolate or fresh fruit for the nice backcountry rangers at Glacier Meadow - they are cool, have good route beta, and are 18 miles in.

8) Times: We took 12 hours with a moderately skilled group of four. We burned an extra hour on the return crossing of the Blue due to 75 foot visibility. A faster team could likely do round trip from Glacier Meadows in 8-9 hours.

Have fun, and be safe!

John Godino

Portland

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Awh Cavey, you are making me work!

Seriously, I called the main number, and they couldn't answer the question! So, they give me another number, which is just a bunch of vm baloney. 2 calls later, it turns out that no dogs are allowed.

That's what I expected, but sometimes I am surprised.

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