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#612410 - 11/27/06 08:40 AM [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6203
TRs: 52 Photos: 1185
Loc: PDX
Trip: Hyalite - ice ice ice

Date: 11/22 - 11/26/06

Trip Report:

guilty parties:
powderhound (Bryan)
Farrgo (Nate)
NYC007 (Matt)
DonnV (Donn)
Marcus Donaldson
NOLSe

Other cc in da canyon:
AlpineDave
Micah
PHILONIUS (Phil)
PHILONIUS's partner ???
The couple Marcus and I met below G2 ???

drive drive drive




hike hike hike


Matrix


Feeding the cat


Scepter



Zack Attack


Zack Attack pitch 1 (of 4):



Zack Attack pitch 2 (of 4):


The Thrill is Gone:


Magically Delicious:


Black Magic:



You want a piece?


What else (i.e. I lost my camera and don't have pics of them)?
- Killer Pillar is in fat.
- Bobo Like is in and is
- Big Sleep is in WI5+ conditions (normally forms as a 6+)
- Upper Mummy actually formed... Pete Tapley commented this is the fattest he has ever seen it
- Narcolepsy and Lurking Smear were climbed Saturday... both of which come in about as often as Dru gets laid
- If you have the winter dance guide book the ice on black magic is down as far as where alex lowe is in the photo... i.e. super fat

Basically a lot of routes that are never in are in right now. Don't get me wrong... not all routes are super fat... mummy 2 was on the thin side... but a lot of the routes that never form are in.

What are you waiting for?

Misc notes:

Very cool to get the chance to shoot the shit with Pete Tapley and Greg of Northern Lights... I hope all you cc turds are smart enough to not spray p tapley and lose yet another great conditions resource

Bryan for letting us dirtbag at his place

Bryan's girl Laura has earned my nomination for Girlfriend of the Year for cooking a thanksgiving day dinner for 6 dirtbag ice climbers all by herself in addition to letting Bryan go climbing on their anniversary! AMAZING! One of these days I will remember to ask you if you have a sister ;\)


Gear Notes:
Ice tools with a hammer if you climb with Marcus

Make sure you have all the ice screws before you start leading the next pitch \:o

Approach Notes:
Road for both main fork and flanders is cake right now

Check conditions before you go as things can change overnight

Bozeman Ice Festival this weekend should keep the road in

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#612413 - 11/27/06 08:56 AM Re: [TR] Hyalite - // [Re: John Frieh]
mountainmatt Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/05/06
Posts: 1126
TRs: 26 Photos: 259
Loc: Bwoooston
Sweet stuff! Nice pics
_________________________
Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.

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#612414 - 11/27/06 08:59 AM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: John Frieh]
Farrgo Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/28/02
Posts: 730
TRs: 6 Photos: 239
Loc: Tacoma
More Hyalite sweetness...

Bryan leading The Good Looking One


Donn and Matt trying not, to swing that way, on the sodomy creek crossing.


Bryan styling the Scepter.


Donn leading Champagne Slot.
_________________________
Alea iacta est

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#612417 - 11/27/06 09:22 AM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: Farrgo]
brian_m Offline
member

Registered: 04/17/06
Posts: 149
TRs: 4 Photos: 27
Loc: North Bend, WA
Great pics!!! Sounds like you all had a lot to be thankful for!

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#612425 - 11/27/06 10:00 AM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: Farrgo]
ZimZam Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/01/05
Posts: 1836
TRs: 1 Photos: 61
Loc: The Rez
What a way to spend Thanksgiving! Good friends, good food, and solid ice.

Is that BC ice in yet?
_________________________
I hear the train a comin'.

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#612427 - 11/27/06 10:00 AM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: Farrgo]
powderhound Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/11/04
Posts: 1413
TRs: 20 Photos: 295
Loc: pdx
Nate can you send me some pics of me to bryan_schmitz@yahoo.com

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#612445 - 11/27/06 11:03 AM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: powderhound]
kurthicks Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 04/22/03
Posts: 2520
TRs: 21 Photos: 316
Loc: Seattle
sounds like a great trip guys! I'm pretty jealous...
_________________________
http://www.kurthicks.com

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#612449 - 11/27/06 11:16 AM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: kurthicks]
Farrgo Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/28/02
Posts: 730
TRs: 6 Photos: 239
Loc: Tacoma
Bryan, pics are sent.
_________________________
Alea iacta est

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#612470 - 11/27/06 12:44 PM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: Farrgo]
DonnV Offline
member

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 128
TRs: 11 Photos: 245
Loc: Vancouver WA
A few more pics from the trip.

Nate leading Magically Delicious


Bryan leading through funky ice on The Good Looking One


Nate getting sporty following Bryan's lead on The Good Looking One


Nate leading Champagne Sherbert


Another view of Champagne Sherbert, being climbed by the two women that Matt kept hitting on.


Matt on Champagne Slot


And thanks again to Bryan for hosting and to Laura for feeding us in such great style!

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#612484 - 11/27/06 01:50 PM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: John Frieh]
rat Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/20/01
Posts: 579
TRs: 13 Photos: 12
Originally Posted By: John Frieh

hope all you cc turds are smart enough to not spray p tapley and lose yet another great conditions resource


i didn't realize montanans were such delicate flowers.

looks like a fun trip.

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#612486 - 11/27/06 02:00 PM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: rat]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6203
TRs: 52 Photos: 1185
Loc: PDX
Originally Posted By: rat
Originally Posted By: John Frieh

hope all you cc turds are smart enough to not spray p tapley and lose yet another great conditions resource


i didn't realize montanans were such delicate flowers.


All I'm asking is keep the spray in spray.

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#612586 - 11/27/06 07:33 PM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: John Frieh]
NYC007 Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/05/03
Posts: 793
TRs: 2 Photos: 54
Loc: spokanistan
yeah thanks donn for trying to get me in trouble, by the way where did you stay friday night we never heard you come in til 6am...

Thanks again Bryan and Laura Everything was GREAT!!
_________________________
Didnt you see my movie!?

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#612592 - 11/27/06 09:14 PM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: NYC007]
NYC007 Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/05/03
Posts: 793
TRs: 2 Photos: 54
Loc: spokanistan
_________________________
Didnt you see my movie!?

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#612595 - 11/27/06 09:30 PM Re: [TR] Hyalite - much to give thanks for [Re: NYC007]
DanielHarro Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 03/02/05
Posts: 431
TRs: 5 Photos: 358
Loc: AK Grown
Good work!! Thanks for the photos, seems like a great way to spend thanksgiving!!

John- did you lose you camera as a piece of ice cut your face? Its all good since I am sure it was M12 WI7+ no worries.


Edited by DanielHarro (11/27/06 09:32 PM)

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