Gunsight Range-Various Date of Climb:
8/7/2006 Trip Report:
My good friend Martins Putelis and I spent Aug 1-8 in the fabled Gunsight Range.
We spent the first couple days slogging our way up through Bachelor Creek and over to the Dome/Chickamin col with some pretty monstrous loads. We climbed Dome, and then traversed the Chickamin Glacier to an immaculate bivy on the nunatak directly beneath the W Face of the North Gunsight Pk. The Chickamin had a few thin bridges, and was gained via a sketchy downhill leap across a five-foot gap in a broken snowbridge.
Near the summit of Dome:
Tower of Babel Bivy:
We gave the W Face of the North Pk. a shot on our first day. P1 went fine, but we had a hard time locating the line to pull the roof and access the prominent cracks above on P2. Figuring we had plenty of time we bailed off with intentions to return. With plenty of time left in the day we scoped a different line in the cirque and gave it a whirl. The first pitch lived up to everything we had heard about the range, splitter fingers on perfect, clean, well protected granite, it clocked in at about 9+. P2 was a differnt deal a loose yet fun 10a chimney we dubbed the Hall of Hollows:
We rapped from the top of p2, stoked on an adventerous and fun first day in the range.
Day 2 saw us traversing onto the Blue Glacier to see if this hook-em-dook-em about the top of the 1979 Skoog/Brill line on the E face of the Main pk. falling off was really true. Well, it was, its gone.
Not wanting to waste the day, we looked to the right of the line onto the NE face to see if anything else would go. We spotted a few nice looking cracks that lead to a prominent flake breaking the headwall above. what the hell, lets do this. The climb couldn't have gone any better, splitter, mostly well-protected, onsight, and all free at 10c.
FA: NE Face Main Gunsight Pk. III 5.10c
Sol Wertkin and Martins Putelis
August 7, 2006
P1: from the moat crossing at the very bottom of the face work left on ledges and ramps to the base of two prominent hand-sized cracks to the right of the 1979 line, just left of a dark corner 5.6
P2: Climb the twin hand cracks to a ledge, move just right and climb wild eroded out dyke fist crack, move left, mantle, and continue via face holds to a good belay 5.10b
Martins getting ready to mantle:
Looking up the twin cracks from the base:
P3: Traverse right via prominent flake, mantle and continue up, look left around corner to perfect splitter, climb splitter to arete belay 5.10a.
Martins seconding P3:
P4. Work up thin corner on right, move left to prominent flake seen from below. Pull bulge on left-hand side of flake into mind blowing splitter in amazing position. Continue up to slab of E face and climb left via runouts to good belay on base of the SE ridge. A long pitch 5.10c
Beginning of P4:
Pulling into the splitter:
P5: Continue up moderate and airy ridge to summit. 5.7
SE ridge with Sinister in the background:
The next day we woke up late and climbed the unique and fun South Cannonhole Ridge on the S Gunsight Pk.
Its a super fun ridge that besides the memorable traverse is quite easy.
Martins starting the traverse:
Myself contemplating the Cannonhole:
Stoked, we bowed down to the Gunisight gods and thanked them for the great time. Gear Notes:
NE Face: Glacier gear, double set of cams to #3,one #4. Double ropes.
Cannonhole ridge: single set to #3, nuts, single rope. Approach Notes:
just pm if you really want this stuff.