chucK Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Climb: Mt. Stuart-West Ridge Couloir Date of Climb: 6/3/2006 Trip Report: Mark_L and I climbed Stuart via the West Ridge Couloir on Saturday. We left the Long's Pass TH around quarter to 7. Snow was fairly continuous from where the Ingall's Lake/Long's Pass trail brannches off, and hard enough that we actually used our crampons getting up to Long's Pass. Luckily the sun had already hit the other side of Long's so we got to glissade back down the Ingall's Creek side. The West Ridge Couloir was straightforward crampooning and had great coverage. We only needed to climb over rock for I think 3 short sections. We made it to the notch about 1pm. We found the South side bypass that let us avoid any climbing on the colder, snowier North side of the West Ridge completion. At the little headwall above the notch where the usual route jogs onto the N side, skirt around the right on any easy ledge to the South side. Once around the corner cut back left and up back onto the West side and do a short exposed traverse which gets you back to the regular easy route. Summitted around 3:30, nice weather held out all day. We boot skied pretty much down the entire Cascadian Couloir. Nice snow all the way down to the meadows. Back to the truck around 8:45. This turned out to be a great way to get up and down Stuart quickly this time of year. Gear Notes: Crampons, axe. Skinny rope, small rack (~12 nuts/hexes, 7 draws) Approach Notes: Road to TH clear of snow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Nice day, huh? Saw you guys on the west ridge, near the twin cracks, just before we left the summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 The West Ridge Couloir was straightforward crampooning and had great coverage. We only needed to climb over rock for I think 3 short sections. When dry, that’s one of the cleanest gullies in the Cascades. Bummer you had to do it in such lousy conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 Are you sure you're not thinking of one of those couloirs on the West Ridge route? When I've looked down the West Ridge couloir from the notch (when I've done the West Ridge proper) the West Ridge Couloir has looked pretty rubble-filled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Are you sure you're not thinking of one of those couloirs on the West Ridge route? I was, actually. But with the council of Fred, I’ve seen the error of my ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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