Chad_A Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 (edited) Climb: Mt. Hood-Reid Headwall Date of Climb: 2/11/2006 Trip Report: Got shut down on the 10th due to high winds; decided to head back up to give it another shot before heading back to work for my 5 day stretch; hence the ultra early start. I'll do it Colin Haley style, to save time. 00:54- Left Timberline. 02:38- At Illumination Saddle; spent ten minutes refueling, rehydrating, and geting out the tools and crampons. 03:30- Futzed around the bergshrund trying to find a way over. A couple of teetering blocks, and weak snowbridges- wasn't comfortable with crossing them solo. Diverted climbers-left over the rock ridge that separates Leuthold and Reid, to bypass it, then dived back into the towers and ice formations above. Found a fun gully with some WI2 in it. 05:15(?) above the Queens chair on easier ground. Ate and rehydrated; enjoyed the views of the beautiful moonlight illuminating all the ridges and features before me. 05:48- at the summit. Took more crappy pictures with my camera, that didn't turn out. Here's what little's worth seeing. The top of the WI2 gully: The worst picture of the summit I've taken, with the moon above Portland's lights: Pic of I-Rock on the way down: Gear Notes: Pair of Quarks- glad I had them, for some funky downclimbing I had to do. G14s, my minidisc player, and a crappy night-time picture taking camera. Approach Notes: Perfect walking on styrofoam the whole way. The Reid is perfectly closed up. Edited February 12, 2006 by vw4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kioti Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 Nice Chad! Were you soloing the route? You must have been hungry for the summit after being stonewalled the previous day. I'll have to talk to you about taking pictures at night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whidbey Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 solo it was.. damn nice report!!! If'n I'm wrong please correct me. I did the same type shit on Rainier last year... don't tell though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerJ Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 Awesome job. Glad you got out and up. It sounded like the last outing was less than fulfilling. -r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted February 12, 2006 Author Share Posted February 12, 2006 Thanks, guys. Yeah, it was solo- I was in the right headspace for it; a couple years back, I soloed Leuthold, and I liked the mental challenge of it. Also, the Reid is a great route to refresh routefinding skills. Alan, thanks much for getting Meg's skis done so quick! I owe you beer for that, and your sunglasses that I found in my jacket pocket. I'll be looking forward to a photo class from you...this camera just doesn't seem that user friendly for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whidbey Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 (edited) Either way... the pictures are what they are. Better than nothing. Get yourself an olympus Stylus Epic with the 2.8 fixed lens and live life happy. 2.8 lens with some 100 or 200 speed will work for most everything.... You can spend more and maybe improve your results?... maybe. Great report and wish to do it myself this winter... solo or not. Edited February 12, 2006 by whidbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffh Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 Nice work Chad. Glad you were finally able to cross that route off your list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 I'm jealous dude... Great job, and hey screw it, I like the photos! They show it like it is, which looked dark, solo, and pretty awesome. Looks like you made pretty good time up there as well. Thanks again for posting the writeup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 Awesome job Chad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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