N. Ridge of Forbidden

[Kyle_Flick]

We did the N. Ridge of Forbidden last weekend and it's in condition. Sharkfin Col has a snow ramp onto the rock which should last for another week or two before it moats out. We stayed on the ridge as much as possible. Other than two snowslopes on the ridge the rock is dry. We avoided the second snow slope by traversing on the east side of the ridge which made for interesting climbing on suspect rock. It's long but fun simul climbing for nearly 3/4s of a mile with only a 1000' of elevation gain. The ambiance is tough to beat anywhere in the Cascades. The descent from the top down the east ledges is the way to go.

[cmonster]

After crossing the second snowfield and reaching the first steep pinnacle of the upper north ridge, which way did you go? We went to the east side and did a descending traversed for quite a bit and then an ascending traverse to regain the ridge 2 pitches below the summit. I have a feeling we missed some of the best climbing along the ridge line.

[Yossarian]

My partner lost his summit pack down the North Ridge. It was a while ago but if anyone finds it they can keep the gear, all I want is the disposable camera.

[Bob_Clarke]

how would a north ridge decent look? Down to the Boston Glaicer?

[Tod]

Once after a a climb of the North Ridge, I did a NE Face decent. It wasn't all that bad. Mostly scree and steep heathered benches that lead to a couple of cliffs 100-200 feet above the Boston Glacier. We ended up making two repels into the moat and climbing 15-20 feet back out.

It was probably a longer way down than it should have been, but it was interesting being on a face that people rarely seem to set foot on. The worst part of it was climbing back up and over Sharkfin Col with mud dripping/running down from the Col while pulling a few 5.6/5.7 moves through it at 2am.

Tod

[This message has been edited by Tod (edited 07-17-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Tod (edited 07-17-2001).]