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Dreamer


chucK

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Climbed Dreamer on Saturday (6/16/01). Here's the scoop:

Conditions were great. Very little seepage. Someone has brushed out the trail, and left a black bra hanging there. Very nice. Snow all but gone from the approach and can be avoided completely.

Nobody else there the whole day. Damn crowded classic climbs!

We did the "Dreamer Direct/Urban Bypass" variation. Urban Bypass is fun, about as difficult as the Online crux but has about twice as many bolts per foot. With a 60m rope you can link (just barely) the next two pitches.

Here's the most valuable beta for this climb: Get your partner to lead the Urban Bypass and the Blue Crack pitches. This will saddle her with the lousy belays and you'll get the cushy ones.

Chuck

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