robertm Posted November 13, 2000 Share Posted November 13, 2000 The rock climbing wasn't especially difficult.. as long as you are on route. The rock quality on the ridge connecting the tower to Shuksan is some of the worst I have seen in the Cascades. The rock on the tower itself is ok. 4th to mid 5th class climbing on the tower... a couple of 5.8 moves along the ridge (Beckey 4th class). It seems that some of the ridge might have fallen off since Fred did it The ridge I would give a YD 5.8+ (one roof move) grade III+ by itself with mostly mid 5th class climbing and REALLY loose 4th class. You can bivy in the col between the tower and the ridge. Take 2 ropes for the rappels (double rope technique is ideal). We established anchors with double 60M ropes... combination of slings and titanium pitons. Our ambitions were to also climb Shuksan once on the plateau... but ran out of gumption. There was another party that we watched climb the Price (50 classics), they topped out an hour before a wet snow avalanche scoured the entire route (unknown to them). They must have ran out of gas too because we followed their foot prints and they didn't head for the summit. All in all a awesome place to climb with spectacular scenery and some of the most rugged terrain I have ever experienced. The other thing about the tower that is so intimidating is the fact that there is no easy way down. You are faced with down climbing really steep snow and ice with no margin for error. You could almost say what we did was safer... especially now that we have established the rappels. It was surprising to us that only one other party had done what we did... Judging by the names in summit register it looked like about 1 party per year does the tower... surprising since it is in the Selected Climbs. I think when people get up there and look at it they get psyched out a bit. I know we did. It took me my third time up there before we did it. I don't think the Ridge gets done much at all. There were no fixed anchors on the Raps or the ridge until the last tower before the Shuksan plateu. This could be because people have tried to climb it coming the other way (from Shuksan and then bail when they realize how poor the rock is). One other thing. I forgot my helmet... not a great place to do that. Here is the link to some pics: http://www.alpinezone.50megs.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted November 14, 2000 Share Posted November 14, 2000 hey robert, what time of year did you do the tower? (if you're posting it now 'cause you did it last weekend, i'm even more impressed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted November 18, 2000 Author Share Posted November 18, 2000 Hey Forrest... I remember you from Feathered Friends... you were just leaving as I was getting started. remember the Peter Principle We did the Tower and Ridge in Late July of this year... The schrunds get nasty after mid august most years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 (edited) Hey, any feedback on this route/s? Seven years ago when I first moved here this was on my list, had a perfect week of weather and 3 partners bail in a row (one while I was literally walking out the door bags packed, calling saying he had the flu). For some reason I'm thinking about it again this summer. Anyone climbed it (especially in recent years) who has anything to say about it (general beta, "it's awesome" or "it sucks ass", also which line you took/ might recommend)? I appreciate it. Edited April 28, 2007 by crazy_t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueserac Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 (edited) Can anyone comment on the creek crossings? Has the trail been disturbed, or is it still prisitine once you cross the second log? It is such a wonderful setting to play within. Be cautious of dropping a tent at that nice, beautiful sandy tent spot, craddled in a rock basin, on the ridge just above the glacier over looking the lake it can really fill up with water during rain events. What were the rap anchors like? Edited April 28, 2007 by blueserac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueserac Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 Has anyone been up that way recently, are there any ice lines up there? Has anyone been on the Nelson/Gerson route to the left of Beckeys' pioneering line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 Ade and Colin climbed Nelson route a few winters ago, Ade has some pics of the adventure on his site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 We climbed it in spring via the Nelson-Gerson. The ridge looked likea "unique" climbing experience... http://www.ademiller.com/climbing/gallery/cascades/nooksack_2004/slides/17_the_nooksack_ridge_and_shuksan.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 looks "unique" for sure, "interesting"! Must have been an epic climb. Thanks for the pic. A couple of my friends did the ridge a # of years ago in summer and reported rapping off of piles of stones, etc. But descending the "regular route" terrain looks spicy to me too. I'm ok with loose rock and runouts, less ok with rockfall. I'm thinking about going in July roughly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 anyone else have any 1st hand reports/info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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