Jump to content

[TR] Liberty Bell- NW Face 7/9/2005


forrest_m

Recommended Posts

Climb: Liberty Bell-NW Face

 

Date of Climb: 7/9/2005

 

Trip Report:

Ade and I climbed this on Saturday. It was really cold for July. On the 3rd pitch, to the left of the standard route, there are 2 different variations on the slab. Does anyone know the story with them?

 

Both follow good flake/crack systems up to a small roof, and then the crack systems peter out above. The left hand variation (which we did) has a fixed pin about 1/2 way up; the right hand variation has a bolt about 3/4 of the way and looked harder(?).

 

Gear Notes:

small wires would have been useful on the p. 3 variation

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 2
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Nice job on your climb.

 

Did the left one yesterday. Quite fun except for the runout in the flared groove between the pins. (I counted 2 fixed pins in it). What did you think, maybe 10B?

 

It looks like the bolt on the right one is to protect the runout where the crack peters out into a groove.

 

5475Crux_LB.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes, your photo is where i was talking about. i must have missed one of the fixed pins - was it lower down? i started in the right hand crack and traversed in below the roofs. 10b sounds about right. i thought the technical crux was actually traversing back right from the fin at the top of the corner - it might be a lot easier without the lichen!

 

a friend of mine did the right hand variation (with the bolt) and claims that it was only 5.9 - he was doing the route with a relatively inexperienced leader and she led that pitch. sure looks harder from below.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...